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THE 



/ 



American Garment Cutter 



SECOND EDITION 

flA complete, practical, up-to-date 
treatise on the Cutting of 

MEN'S GARMENTS 

according to the most approved 
method ^ ^ ^ ^ 




AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 

NEW YORK LONDON PARIS BERLIN VIENNA 



UB«^BY of CONGfiF.33 
\ tVU Copies KeCt:>v>Af 

JUL 1 1908 






r 2^ '^*l 



COPY 8. 



/ 



^Vo^ 



v5^ 



Intkrnational Copyright, 1908 



Entered According tg Act of Congress in the Year ,1908 

BY 

American Fashion Company 
In the Office of the Librarian at Washington, D. C. 



Akl Rights Reserved 

Reproduction Interdtte 

Vervielfaeltigung unter act 



^-^;?^/^^ 






INTRODUCTION 



Draper in his "Intellectual Advancement of Civilization" says: "Individual 
advancement is the model for social progress." Nowhere is the truth of this to 
be found so fully realized as in these United States, where individual advance- 
ment is marked in every avenue of life. "Excelsior" is inscribed on the banner 
of every man and woman, borne onward and forward through the rush and 
crush, through the whirlpools and fast flowing streams of life's kaleidoscopic 
changes, ever reaching higher and higher and becoming more and more and still 
more perfect in their particular sphere and in their own individual calling. 

For twenty years the author has devoted his time and study to the compila 
tion of a book for self-instruction in the art of cutting and designing men's gar- 
ments, so arranged that any one of average intelligence can master it with prop- 
er care and necessary diligence. 

The student will find the system extremely simple and entirely free from 
complication; no scale or chart of any kind is used, simply the ordinary divis- 
ioned square and inch tape measure; everything which might have a tendency to 
befog and mislead the student has been eliminated, so that every line drawn and 
applied may be easily grasped and perfectly understood. To produce a method 
of cutting where the points are based on the actual build of a man, and to be 
reproduced as nearly perfect as is possible to human ingenuity is what has been 
sought in this work. The author has so far succeeded that of the many who 
have studied, either by direct instruction or by the aid of this publication, not 
one has failed to enjoy the fullest confidence of their clientage. Particularly is 
this system of value where cutting has to be done without "try-on," and at no 
time can a garment be spoiled. The perfect points being the fundamental object 
of this method. 



PREFACE 



In placing this work before the Cutting Fraternity, we feel confident that we 
have placed before them something that is useful and practical. Unlike any other 
work of its kind, its construction is simple and easy to understand. It has been 
our aim to eliminate all discussion of an anatomical nature, for we do not pre- 
tend to teach anatomy, nor do we try to convince the student of something we 
are not convinced of ourselves. We do claim that our work is absolutely practi- 
cal, and correct, its measures are simple, and applied on the pattern exactly as 
taken, and they cover any and all points that have heretofore confused the cut- 
ter. There will be no need for the cutter to mark on the book "R. B." for round 
back or "O. E." for over erect or any other sign by which to know the shape of 
his customer, for his measurements will show all such points. We feel certain 
that any cutter following the instructions of the AMERICAN GARMENT CuTTER 
will be satisfied with the results obtained. THE AUTHOR. 



PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION 



The publication of the first edition of this work marked an era in the history 
of cutting, as it was the introduction of a Self-Instructor that enabled the stu- 
dent to intelligently understand a system that was Simple, Concise and Practical. 

The many systems that were heretofore published, advanced theories and 
expounded systems that proved to be so intricate and ambiguous that it left the 
student floundering in uncertainty, and necessitated either a course of personal 
instruction, or a return to his former system that had proved unsatisfactory. 

The great success that attended the sale of the first edition of this work is 
evidenced by the fact that many orders have been held in abeyance pending the 
publication of this edition, the first issue having been entirely sold out many 
months ago. 

That the Author has succeeded in producing a work fulfilling all the re- 
quirements of a Self-Instructor is attested by the result that not a single request 
for an explanation of any point has been received since the first issue was pre- 
sented to the public. 

Whilst the fundamental principles of the system taught in the previous edi- 
tion has been retained, yet some changes have been made that practical experi- 
ence has found to be beneficial, and many diagrams of garments added that 
make this the most complete work on Garment Cutting ever published. 

Whether it be a Practical Cutter or Tailer, or one totally unacquainted 
with the Art of Cutting, the Author is convinced that any person of average in- 
telligence can become a master of the art through the medium of this publica- 
tion. 

The system as taught does not require changing when the vagaries of Fash- 
ion decree a different style, but can be used for all time, and embrace within 
its scope every outer garment worn by man. 

The claims made for this work are fully borne out by the success attained 
by those who studied the first edition, and we know that it will meet with the 
same favor as its predecessor, and be of invaluable use to those who purchase it. 

The Author. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY 

The fact that in order to perfectly fit the human body perfect measurements are required, 
cannot be too often urged upon the cutter, and not only that, but it requires much tact on 
the part of the cutter to get his customer to forget that he is being measured. A fact, well 
known among cutters is, that ninety-nine out of one hundred men will pose, unconsciously per- 
haps, while being measured. It is common to see a man standing erect, with shoulders thrown 
back and chest expanded, and if you were to ask him to stand naturally, he would be indignant 
and answer, "Why, of course this is my natural position," but if after the garment is com- 
pleted he stoops forward, his chest sunken in, his back rounded, it will then be necessary for 
tlie cutter to either make a big alteration or a new garment ; so it will readily be seen that the 
cutter who can make his customer forget that he is being measured, has the best chance of 
success. 

HOW TO MEASURE 

Before measuring it is well to see that the sides of the Vest are not too loose ; if necessary, 
pin up both sides of the Vest, but see that the center seam of the back is in the right place. 

Use the ordinary division square. Place square under the arm with the long end down and 
parallel with the body. (See Fig. i.) The short end to be close, but not tight, under the 
arm ; make a chalk mark on top of it in front, and, still holding the square in the same position, 
make a mark on the side of the back, and remove. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 




FIGURE I. 



AMERICAN GAR M E N T C U T T E R. 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 

Now place the short end of the square under the arm with the long end upward (see Fig. 
2), still keeping the inner edge of it close, but not tight, at the front scye ; mark at the outer 
edge of it across the first line, so that it leaves a cross mark at the front sc3e (see Fig. 3). 
Now place the square under the other arm and mark the same way at front and side of the 
back. 



AMERICAN G A kM E N T CUTTER. 



•y 




FIGURE 2. 



lO AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



HOW TO MEASURE (Condnued) 

The cross mark shown on the front on Fig. 3 shows where the line of scye depth and blade 
line cross. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



il 




FIGURE 3. 



12 A M E R I C A N G A R M E N T C U T T E R. 



HOW TO MEASURE (Continued) 

Place the long end of the square across both marks on the back and mark across the center 
seam point B (see Fig. 4) ; this gives the scye depth. Now find the socket bone, or from above 
the collar button at the back, point A, measure to the scye depth. 

To get the waist length, put the tape line around the waist just above the hip bone, and 
mark across center seam of back, point C, measure 6 inches down for the hip to point D. It 
is easily understood that no matter where the hip may be, as long as }-ou go down the same dis- 
tance for the draft, as the measure, you must be right. 

We will now proceed to measure : 

First from the socket bone to the scye depth ; on to the waist line ; on to the full length. Now 
place the tape line to the back collar button (Fig. 4) and measure to cross line on front (Fig. 3) 
for strap measure ; then from the scye depth of back, to the same cross line on front for over- 
shoulder measure. 

Then from front cross line ( Fig. 3 ) under the arm and over the blade bone to the center 
seam of back for blade measure. 

Then breast, not tight ; waist, and hip. 

In taking the breast measure be sure that your tape string is over the most prominent part 
of the blade bone. 

THE VEST 

If measured for a suit all that is needed is the opening and full length measure, otherwise 
take the same measurements as for the coat. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



13 




FIGURE 4. 



,^ AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



HOW TO MEASURE CConiinued; 
TROUSERS 

Measure the outside seam from the hip bone to the top of heel. 

For the inseam, have the trousers well drawn up and measure from the crotch to the top 
of heel, then the waist, hip, seat, thigh, knee and bottom. 

THE SQUARE 

The square used for these diagrams is a plain division square, understood by most cutters, 
but for the benefit of those who do not understand it, we herewith give an explanation of the 
divisions of same. 

The long end of the square is divided into yi, Yz, Ye, ^, 1-24; the short end is divided into 
Y2y Y> %' i'i6 and 1-32. Should you try to find Ys of any size, say 36, 40 or 48, look at 
the short end of the square marked ^, and there you will find the number you want, 18 
for 36, 20 for 40, or 24 for 48. Should you want Y^ of ^ny size, look at the same short 
end of square marked Y2, or if you want Y6, Yi or -}^ look at the long end for the mark Yi, Ye 
or tV and you will find it. 

In drawing for square lines be sure that you hold your square on the one line firmly, 
while drawing the right angle, for one line off will spoil the whole draft. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



15 




FIGURE 5. 



l6 a M E R 1 C a N G a R M E X T C U T T E R. 



DIAGRAM 1 

We will now proceed with the first lesson, which is the ground work. 

The measurements for this diagram are as follows: 

Scye depth gi/s inches Blade, if taken in front of square as 

Waist length 17 inches indicated 13 inches 

Full length 30 inches Breast 38 inches 

Strap I2>^ inches Waist 34 inches 

Overshoulder 17^ inches Hip 39 inches 

Note. — When taking the blade measure as herein shown, no allowance is to be made for 
the seams, as in marking the blade in front of the square, the width of the square adds lyi 
inches for make-up. However, if the blade measure is taken from in front of the armscye, ij4 
inches allowance must be added for seams. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. From A to B is the scye depth plus }4 inch which 
is 9^ inches. 

To C is the waist length, 17 inches. C to D is 6 inches. A to E is full length of coat, 
30 inches. 

F is half way between A and B. From F to G is y2 breast. 

Square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

In all shapely coats, the distance from C to 17 is to be '/^ inch, but, if the coat is to be very 
shapely, the distance may be -li inch, or if for a straight back, leave the center line straight. 

Draw a line from 17 to F and square down : this produces point 28. 

From 28 to H is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to J is i;]^ inches. J to K is ^4 inch. Point 
L is half way between 28 and H. From L to M is 3^4 inches always. Square down from M. 

Now apply the blade measure from 28 to M, which in this case is 13 inches net, and square 
up. 

Now let it be understood that the blade measure does not always come even with the line 
squared down from M, as the increase or decrease of the blade measure may move the line 
from M either forwards or backwards. ( See Diagrams 9 and 10.) 

Point O is >2 of the blade measure. From ( ) to P is i^ inches. Square up from P. 
This establishes point R. From R to S is >4 inch. 

This distance may be more or less according to the width of the shoulder desired. 

From .-\ to T is '/s of breast plus J4 inch. From T to U is y» inch. Point H is '4 inch 
below point U. Draw a line from S to H. From P to V is -j^ breast. P to Q is J4 inch, more 
or less, according to the width of back desired. 

Square down from Q. 



A M E E J C A N GARMENT CUTTER. 



17 



E*-«^ «S_ 



I. 



-M; 



A^ 



s^^ 



^A 



I i^9^ 



Ml 



>B 



-^ H»0 



HiD 



-iE 



DIAGRAM I. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 2 

Shape the back as indicated. 

Note that the back part at point V is cut with a }i inch step. This provides for the seam 
that is to be taken off from the back part, which will, after the side seam is sewed up, keep the 
back and front even at the breast hne. 

From N to W is >4 waist. Square down from W to estabHsh point Z. From Z to i is 5^ 
inch less than Ye breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus % inch for seams from A to U and M to 25, which is 13J4 
inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 38 to 2 and from M to 3, which is 
i8|4 inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get point 4; from 25 to 4 is ;^ inch less than U to S ; 
from 4 to 5 is yi inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Place the square to line Y — 25 and square forward ; from 25 to 6 is % breast plus J4 
inch ; draw a rounding line from 6 to K. 

From 6 to 24 is yi breast ; 25 to 23 is Ys breast ; draw a line from 23 through 24, and shape 
the gorge. 

From 6 to 7 is I inch. K to 8 and W to 9 are the same. 

Shape the front edge from 7 through 8, 9 and Z to I. 



1 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



19 




DIAGRAM 2. 



20 



AMERICAN GAR M E N T C U T T E R. 



DIAGRAM 3 

From lo back to ii is 3J^ inches. 

Apply the seat measure phis an extra half inch for ease from 12 to 13 and 11 to 14, which 
is, in this case, 20 inches. 

From 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up fro"! 21; this locates point 20. 

Draw a line from 20 through 14 and shape the side of forepart as indicated. 

From 20 to 16 is the same length as 19 to 1 5- Shape the bottom of forepart, rounding it 
slightly, from 16 to i. 

If a close fitting waist is desired, proceed as follows: From 9 to 18 is 3>4 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 19 to 17 and 18 to 20 and cut out an underarm fish from the 
surplus as indicated. 

To make your lapel, proceed as follows: From 25 to 22 is 1]/% inches; mark the length of 
lapel as desired, and draw a line from 22 to that point; now shape the width of lapel according 
to style or taste, and shape the front edge as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



21 




DIAGRAM 3. 



22 AM E RI C A N G ARM E N T C U r T ER. 



DIAGRAM 4 

After the back part is cut out, place point U of tlie back part to point 25 of the forepart, 
and point 2 to point 3, and see that your strap measure from A to M and the overshoulder meas- 
ure from 28 to M are proper, and cut out the forepart. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



23 




DIAGRAM 4. 



24 A M E R J C A N G A R M E N T C U T T E R. 

THREE BUTTON SEMI FITTING SACK WITH FLARING SKIRTS 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth g/2 inches Blade 1314 inches 

Waist length I7>^ inches Breast 39 inches 

Full length 31 inches Waist 35 inches 

Strap 12^ inches Hip 40 inches 

Uvershoulder 18 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. From A to B is the scye depth plus ^4 inch, 9% 
inches ; to C is i73<2 inches. From C to D is 6 inches. A to E is 31 inches. F is half way between 
A and B. From F to G 12 breast. Square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is ^ inch. Draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is 3/2 breast, I9>4 inches; from H to J is 1% inches; J to K is % inch. 

L is half way between 28 and H. From L to M is 3^ inches. Square down irom M to get 
N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M 1334 inches and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M ; from O to P is ij/^ inches; square up from P to get R. 
From R to S is 3<^ inch. 

F"rom P to V is x^ breast; P to Q is ^4 inch; square down from Q to get point 15. 

From A to T is ys breast plus ^ inch. T to U is ^ inch; draw a line from U to S. 

At 15 add as much flare as desired and shape the back. 

From N to W is 34 waist. Square down from W to get Z. From Z to i is >^ inch less than 
% breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W. Point Y is half way between M and J. Draw a 
line from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to U and M to 25, which is 133^ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch froim 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 19 inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4. From 25 to 4 is % inch less than U to S. From 
4 to 5 is >4 inch. Shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y. From 25 to 6 is 3^ breast plus }i inch; 6 to 7 is 
I inch; draw a rounding line from 6 to K. From 6 to 24 is % breast. 

From 5 to 23 is ys breast; draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is i inch ; W to 9 is the same. Shape the front edge from 7 through 8, 9 and 
Z. 

From 10 back to 11 is 33^2 inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus an extra 3/ inch from 26 to 13 and 11 to 14, which is 20!^ 
inches. 

From 14 to 21 is 2 inches. Square up from 21 to get point 20; draw a line from 20 
through 14 to get 16. 

There being no underarm fish in this coat, reduce the forepart 34 inch at P. Add as much 
flare to 16 as desired, and shape the side of forepart. 

From 20 to 16 is the same length as 19 to 15. Shape the bottom and finish. 

The pocket is placed as follows : From M to 27 is % of the sleeve length plus ^ inch. 
Measure the distance from 27 to 30; apply the same distance from the bottom of coat to 31 and 
29. Draw a line from 29 to 31. From 27 mark the pocket half each way. 

The breast pocket is marked as follows : From Y to 32 is i inch, draw a line from M through 
32. The distance from M to the pocket is i '4 inches. Make the size of pocket 5 inches or 
use your judgment. 

The ticket pocket is marked as follows: Square up from 31 by the lower pocket. From 31 
to 33 is 334 inches. The ticket pocket must run parallel with the lower pocket. From 33 to 34 
is I inch. The size of pocket from 34 back is 3^4 inches or to taste. 



AMERICAN GAR M E N T C U T T E R. 



25 




DIAGRAM 5. 



26 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE 

A question often asked by the student is, "fiow are we to tell the difference between the 
stooping and the erect figure, and what changes must we make in order to produce a fitting gar- 
ment for the stooping or the over erect?" The answer is, the measurements will tell. 

For instance, Diagram 6 shows a draft for a normal figure, the measurements of which 
are 9% inches scye depth, 1234 inches strap, 13 inches blade and 38 inches breast. The distance 
from A — B and T — 6 are on the same line. It shows the figure equally balanced and normal. 

Diagram 7 shows a draft for an over erect figure. The breast and blade measures are the 
same as in the previous diagram, but the scye depth measures 9 inches and the strap 125^ 
inches. The distance from T to 6 is longer than from A to B, which shows that the front shoul- 
der is full and the figure leans backwards and is over erect. 

Diagram 8 shows a draft for a stooping figure. The breast and blade measures are the 
same as in the previous diagrams, but the scye depth measures 9^ inches and the strap meas- 
ures I2>4 inches. The distance from T to 6 is shorter than from A to B. It shows that there 
must be a rounding in the back, and the figure stoops forwards. The blade must also be taken 
into consideration in the stooping or erect figure. 




DIAGRAM 6. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



2^ 



R « > Q ft p 




>M 



:1SL 
L fA. 



SSJ 



4lB 



-i2J 



DIAGRAM 7. 




DIAGRAM 8. 



28 A M E R I C A N G A RM E X T CUTTER. 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE (Continued) 

Diagram 9 shows a draft for a figure with a large blade. The measurements are the same as 
for the original 38 inch breast coat, but the blade measure is 135-I inches, and the draft is made 
as follows: 

From 28 to H is half the breast measure, 19 inches; H to J is 1% inches, and J to K is 
}i inch ; L is half way between 28 and H ; from L to M is 3^/2 inches ; square down from M. 

Now apply the blade measure from 28 to B which is 13^^ inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and B; from O to P is ij^ inches; square up from P. 

It will be seen that the back part from 28 to P is increased whilst the breast from B to K 
has decreased the same amount, showing that the figure is large in the back and flat in the 
breast. 



Diagram 10 shows a draft for a figure with a small blade. The measurements are the same 
as for the previous drafts, except the blade measure, which is 123/2 inches, and is made in the 
same way as the last diagram. 

From 28 to H is half of the breast, 19 inches ; H to J is i-)4 inches ; J to K is J4 inch ; L is 
half way between 28 and H; from L to M is 3j4 inches; square down from M. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to B, which is 123^2 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and B ; from O to P is 13/2 inches ; square up from P. 

The distance from 28 to P, which is the width of back, has decreased in this case, while the 
front from B to K has increased the same amount, showing that the back is flat, while the 
front is full. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



29 







Bj 








K, 


•' aH 


.«M L^ . 


p -o ssl 











DIAGRAM 9. 



k4-«3 eS i ^^^ 



-*i* — $2— 9O. 



_sa 



■^ 



DIAGRAM 10. 



30 A M E R I C A N G A R M E N T C U T T E R. 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE (Continued) 

A word about the sloping and high shoulders: 

Diagram ii is a 38 breast coat. The scye depth is 10 inches. The strap is 12^ inches and 
the overshoulder is 17^ inches. 

The method of cutting is the same as in all ordinary patterns. The measurements will 
naturally produce the proper pattern for this figure, which is sloping shoulders. 

DIAGRAM 12 

The breast and blade measures for this pattern are the same as those of the previous pat- 
tern, but the scye depth is 9 inches, the strap is 12]/^ inches and the overshoulder is lyy^ 
inches; cut in the ordinary way, this will produce the high shoulder. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



31 




DIAGRAM II. 




DIAGRAM 12. 



32 A M E R I C A N G A R M E N T C U T T E R. 

DIAGRAM 13 
AN EXAGGERATED SACK COAT 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth g^ inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length 173^ inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 303^ inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap 12J/2 inches Hip 39 inches 

Overshoulder 173^ inches 

This coat is exaggerated two inches, making it 40 breast. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus yi inch, 95^ inches; to C is lyyi inches. From C 
to D is 6 inches; A to E is 303/2 inches; F is half way between A and B; point G is half way 
between A and F. Square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is ^ inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is 34 of the exaggerated breast, 20 inches. From H to J is i^ inches; J 
to K is % inch. 

L is half way between 28 and H. From L to M is 33/2 inches ; square down from M to get 
N. 

Apply the blade measure plus an extra % inch for every inch the breast is exaggerated from 
28 to M, which is 13^ inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M. From O to P is 13^2 inches; square up from P to locate 
point R. 

From P to V is -jV of 38 breast. O is half way between P and O; square down from Q. 

From A to T is 3^ breast plus % inch ; T to U is j^ inch ; draw a line from U through R. 

From R to S is 34 inch. From U to 7 is 34 inch; shape the back part as indicated. 

From N to W is 3/< of 36 waist; square down from W to locate point Z; from Z to I is 3^ 
inch less than % breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W. Point Y is half way between M and J. Draw a 
line from X through Y to locate 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^4 inch from A to 7 and M to 25, which is 1334 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 18^ 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get point 4: from 25 to 4 is % inch less than 7 to S ; 
from 4 to 5 is 3^ inch. 

Shape the shoulder and armscye. 

If a wider shoulder is wanted, add from S to 29 and 5 to 22 as much as desired. 

Square forward from 23 by line X — Y. From 25 to 6 is 3^ breast plus 34 inch ; draw a 
rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is % breast. 

From 25 to 23 is 34 inch less than % breast; draw a line from 23 through 24 and shape 
the gorge. 

From K to 8 is i inch ; W to g is the same ; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From 10 to 11 is 33/ inches; 9 to 18 is the same. 

Apply the natural hip measure plus yi inch from 12 to 13 and 11 to 14, which is 20 inches. 

From 14 to 21 is 2 inches ; square up from 21 to locate point 20. Draw a line from 20 
through 14 to get 16. and shape the side of forepart. 

If a close fitting waist is wanted, apply the waist measure from 19 to 17 and 18 to 20 and take 
out the balance by cutting out an underarm fish 

From 20 to 16 is the same length as 19 to 15. Shape the bottom of forepart and finish. 



A M ERICA N GAR M E N T C U T T E R. 



33 




UIAGRAAI 13. 



2^ AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 14 
FOUR-BUTTON STRAIGHT FRONT SACK WITH ROUNDED CORNERS 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^^ inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length U'A inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length 31 inches Waist 34 inches 

5^ 13 inches Hip 40 mches 

Qvershoulder ^^'A inches 

Draw line A— E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus K inch, 9/'4 inches, to C is 17)^ inches. 

From C to D is 6 inches; from A to E is 31 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is i^ breast; square out from G, F, B, C, 

D and E. 

From C to 17 is ^ inch, or H inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast. 

Draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is 5/2 breast, 20 inches ; from H to J is i J4 inches ; J to K is ^i inch. 

L is half way between 28 and H. From L to M is 3>4 inches; square down from M to get 

N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to 27, which is 13 inches and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and 27. From O to P is i>< inches; square up from P to locate 

point R. 

From R to S is 3^ inch ; from P to V is t^ breast ; P back to Q is 5<^ inch. Square down 

from Q to locate points 26 — 15. 

From A to T is J^ breast plus H inch; from T to U is 5^ inch; draw a line from U to S 

and shape the back. 

From N to W is yl waist. 

Place the square to the breast line and square down from K. 

If the waist line, point W, comes inside of the square line, then place the square to K— W 
and draw a straight line down to Z. 

Point X is half way between N and W. Point Y is half way between 27 and J.; draw a 
line from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus }i inch from A to U and 27 to 2-,, which is I3>^4 inches. 
Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 28 to 2 and 27 to 3, which is IQJ^ inches. 
Draw a line from 25 through 3 to locate 4. From 25 to 4 is Ys inch less than U to S ; from 
4 to 5 is 54 inch Shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X— Y. From 25 to 6 is K breast plus ^i inch; draw a 
rounding line from 6 to K. 

From 6 to 24 is % breast; 25 to 23 is Ys breast; draw a line from 23 through 24 and shape 
the gorge. 

In this coat, the blade is small and the waist is 6 inches smaller than the breast. Altogether . 
it makes the front edge quite round. 

As this kind of a coat ought to be worked in well over the breast, it is well to straighten 
out the front edge by adding from 6 to 7 an extra inch and cutting a V out of the gorge as 
indicated. 

From K to 8 is I inch ; from W to 9 is the same , shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 
From ID to u is 3J/2 inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus an extra Y inch from 26 to 13 and 11 to 14, which is 205/2 
inches. 

From 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to locate point 20. 
Draw a line from 20 through 14 to get 16, and shape the side of forepart. 
From Z to I is >1 inch less than % breast. From 19 to 16 is the same as 20 to 15. Shape 
the bottom of forepart and finish. 

If the coat is wanted close fitting at the waist, take out an underarm fish as indicated. 
In drawing the crease for the lapel always make the distance from 25 to 22, i^ inches 
and make the length and width of lapel to taste. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



35 




DIAGRAM 14. 



36 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 15 
FOUR-BUTTON SACK. LOOSE BACK 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Blade i2>2 inches 

Waist length i6>l inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 30 inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches Hip 37 inches 

Overshoulder 17 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus j^i inch, 9>4 inches, to C is 16^2 inches. From C to 
D is 6 inches; A to E is 30 inches. 

F is half way between A and B ; from F to G is ^^ breast ; square out from G, F, B, C, D 
and E. 

From B to H is yi breast, 18 inches; H to J is l% inches; J to K is ■)4 inch. 

L is half way between B and H. From L to M is 3^ inches; square down from M to get 
N. 

Apply the blade measure from B to M, which is 12^ inches, and square up. 

O is half way between B and M ; from O to P is i^ inches ; square up from P to get R. 

From R to S is ^ inch, more or less according to the width of the shoulder desired. 

From P to V is T^ breast ; P to Q is 5^ inch ; square down from Q to establish points 26 

— IS- 

From A to T is y& breast plus ^ inch ; T to U is y^ inch ; draw a line from U to S and 

shape the back. 

From N to W is J^ waist ; square down from W to locate point Z ; from Z to I is 5^ inch 

less than ^ breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W ; point Y is half way between M and J. Draw a 

line from X through Y to locate line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus M inch, fro>n A to U and M to 25, which is I2-K inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 2 and M to 3, which is 18 inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to locate point 4. 

From 25 to 4 is ^a inch less than U to S : from 4 to 5 is 3.I inch ; shape the shoulder and 
armscye. 

Square forward from 2^ by line X — Y. 

From 25 to 6 is V^ breast plus 54 inch ; dr^w a rounding line from 6 to K. From 6 to 24 
is % breast: 25 to 23 is Vh breast;. Draw a I'ne from 23 through 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is I inch ; from W to is the s^me ; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From ID back to ti is 3!< inches. 

Applv the hip measure plus an extra in.ch from 26 to D and 11 to 14, which is to' j inches. 

From 14 to 26 is 2 inches: square up from 26 to locate point 20. Draw a line from 20 
through 14 to get point 16; from 20 to 16 is the same length as 20 tr. 15; shape the side of fore- 
part. 

If the forepart has no underarm fish, take out '4 inch hetwecn the back and forepart at 

the brea.st line. 

Shape the side of forepart and bottom as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT C U T J h R. 



37 




DIAGRAM IS. 



38 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 16 
STRAIGHT FRONT SACK WITH PEAKED LAPEL 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9>^ inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length ij inches Breast 37 inches 

Full length 30 inches Waist 35 inches 

Strap I2>4 inches Hip 40 inches 

Overshoulder lyY^ inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch, 91^ 
inches; to C is 17 inches. From C to D is 6 inches; A to E is 30 inches; F is half way be- 
tween A and B; from F to G is 1^ breast; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is >^ inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is 3<2 breast, 183/2 inches; from H to J is i^ inches; J to K is % inch. 

L is half way between 28 and H; from L to 26 is y/z inches; square down from 26 to get 
point N, 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M, which is 13 inches and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M. From O to P is 13^ inches; square up from P to locate 
point R ; from R to S is >4 inch. 

From P to V is xV breast ; P to Q is 3^ inch ; square down from Q. 

From A to T is 3^ breast plus ^ inch; T to U is Sg inch; draw a line from U to S and 
shape the back. 

From N to W is 3^ waist; square down from W to locate point Z; from Z to I is 3^ inch 
less than yi breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a line 
from X through Y to locate 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus % inch from A to U and M to 25, which is 13 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is i834 inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4. From 25 to 4 is J^ inch less than U to S; from 
4 to 5 is 34 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y. From 25 to 6 is 3^ breast plus 34 inch; draw a 
rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is yi breast plus 1/2 inch. 

From 25 to 23 is 34 inch less than ]/% breast ; draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From 6 to 7 is I inch ; from K to 8 and W to 9 are the same. Shape the front edge from 7 
through 8, 9 and Z. 

From 10 to 11 is 334 inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus an extra 34 inch from 12 to 13 and 11 to 14, which is 2034 
inches. 

From 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to get 20; draw a line from 20 through 14 to 
get 16. Shape the side of forepart, reducing same Y^ inch at P. 

From 20 to 16 is the same as 19 to 15. Shape the bottom of forepart, and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 




DIAGRAM i6. 



4o AM ERIC AN G ARM E X T C U T T E R. 

DIAGRAM 17 
SINGLE-BREASTED SACK FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

A stout figure is one whose breast and waist arc the same measurements. 

These measures are as follows: 

Se) e depth 9/ j inches LJlade 133^ inches 

Waist length ijy^ inches Ijreast 40 inches 

Full length 31 inches W'aist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches 1 lip 42 inches 

Overshoulder iS-ys, inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. From A to B is the scye depth plus 3^4 inch, 9^ 
inches; to C is 173^ inches; C to D is 6 inches; A to E is 31 inches. F is half way between 
A and B ; from F to G is -^^ breast. Square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is 5<2 inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 2S to 14 is y^ breast, 20 inches; FI to J is i^ inches; J to K is ^ inch. 

L is half way betweea28 and H; from L to M is 3^ inches. Square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M, i^'/i inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and AI ; from O to P is i'/^ inches. Square up from P to get R; 
R to S is >^ inch. 

From P to V is yV breast ; P to Q is ^ inch. Square down from O. 

From A to T is Ys breast jilus }'4 inch; T to U is 5/^ inch; draw a line from U to S and 
shape the back. 

From N to W is ^ w^aist. Square down from W to get point Z. From Z to I is JS inch 
less than % breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between At and J; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure, plus }i inch from A to L' and M to 23, which is 13^ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 28 to 2 and i\I to 3, which is iQfg 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4; from 25 to 4 is ^s inch less than U to S ; 4 to 5 is 
li inch. Shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y From 25 to 6 is y(, breast plus 34 inch; draw a line 
from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is % breast. 

From 25 to 23 is '/s breast; draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From f> to 7 is I inch; from K to 8 and W to 9 are the same. Shape the front edge from 7 
through 8, 9 and Z. 

The proportion of the seat measure is 5 inches larger than the waist. In this case, the hip 
measure is only two inches larger than the waist. The hip is therefore measured as follows: 

From 10 back to 11 is 3>1. inches. 

From 12 to 13 and 11 to 26 is the natural hip measure, which is 21 inches, and to 14 is 22'/^ 
inches, which makes the hip measure 5 inches larger than the waist. 

From 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to get point 20: draw a line from 20 through 
14 to get 16, and shape the side of forepart. 

Mark the pocket from M to 27, ;'/; of the sleeve length plus 3 2 inch as heretofore explained. 
Measure the distance from 27 down to the bottom of forepart. Mark the same distance from 
18 to 29 and 31 to 30. Mark the pocket half each way from 27. 

Now cut in the forepart from about half way between P and M to about half way between 
30 and 27. Cut the pocket in to 29. 

From 17 to 18 take out the surplus that has been added from 26 to 14. 

From 20 to 16 is the same as 19 to 15. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



41 




DIAGRAM 17. 



42 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



After the forepart is cut and the surplus taken out between 17 and 18, the fronts will appear 
like Diagram 18. 

Now finish your forepart as follows: 

Draw a straight line from I to 16 and reshape the forepart. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 




DIAGRAM i8. 



44 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTEK. 

DIAGRAM 19 

THREE-BUTTON SINGLE-BREASTED SACK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

A corpulent figure is one whose waist measure is larger than the breast. 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches 

Waist length ijY^ inches Blade I4J4 inches 

Full length 31 inches Breast 43 inches 

Strap 13^ inches Waist 46 inches 

Overshoulder i9>4 inches Hip 48 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 10 inches; to C is ly inciies; C to D is 6 
inches; A to E is 31 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is t's breast. 

Square out from G, ¥, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is y'z inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is i^ breast, 21 >^ inches; FI to J is i^ inches; J to K is ^ inch. 

L is half way between 28 and FI ; from L to M is 3^ inches ; square down from M to get 
N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M which is 1434 inches and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M ; from O to P is ij/l inches; square up from P to get R. 

From R to S is i^ inch; P to V is ^ breast; P to Q is >^ inch; square down from Q. 

From A to T is Ys, breast plus ;H inch ; T to U is 5-^ inch ; draw a line from U to S and shape 
t!ie back. 

From N to W is 3^2 waist ; square down from W to get point Z ; from Z to I is ' 6 breast 
less J/2 inch. 

Point X is half way between N and W ; ponit Y is half way between IM and J ; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^4 inch from A to U and M to 25, which is 14I/S inches; 
apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 20% inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 : from 25 to 4 is Vt. inch less than U to S ; from 4 to 
5 is 34 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y. 

From 25 to 6 is >6 breast plus 34 inch; draw a line from 6 to K. 

From 6 to 24 is H breast; 25 to 23 is H breast; draw a line from 23 through 24 and shape 
t!,e gorge. 

From 6 to 7 is i inch ; K to 8 and W to 9 are the same ; shape the front edge from 7 through 
3, 9 and Z. 

From 10 back to 1 1 is 334 inches. 

The actual hip measure is 48 inches ; the proportion, which ought to be 5 inches larger than 
the waist is 51 inches, therefore, apply the hip measure as follows: 

From 21 to 13 and 11 to 14 is 253.< inches; from 14 to 27 is 134 inches, which is the dififer- 
ence between the actual hip and the proportionate hip measures. 

Take out the same amount between 18 and 29, and finish the same as in the previous coat. 

In drawing the lapel break for a corpulent figure, the distance from 25 to 22 should be no 
more than ->^ inch, as the corpulent man invariably has a siiort neck. 



AM ERIC A N GAR M E N T CUTTER. 



45 




DIAGRAM 19. 



46 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 20 
DOUBLE-BREASTED SEMI-FITTING SACK COAT 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth gH inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 31 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap I2>4 inches Hip 39 inches 

Overshoulder 17H inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to L. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, 9^ inches; to C is 17 inches; C to D is 
6 inches; A to E is 31 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast. 

Square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 12 is >4 inch; draw a line from F to 12 and square down. 

From N to P is >^ breast, 19 inches; P to Q is i^ inches; O to R is ^ inch. 

S is half way between N and P; from S to T is 3K' inches; square down from T to get 
Z; apply the blade measure from N to T, 13 inches, and square up. 

W is half way between N and T; from W to Y is lyz inches; square up from Y to get J. 

From J to K is >4 inch ; Y to O is tV breast. Y to X is K> inch ; square down from X. 

From A to L is J^ breast plus }i inch ; L to M is ys inch ; draw a line from M to K and 
shape the back. 

From Z to 4 is ^ waist ; square down from 4 to get point 26. 

U is half way between Z and 4 ; point V is half way between T and Q ; draw a line from U 
through V to get line 6. 

Applv the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to M and T to 6, which is 13I4 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from N to H and T to 7, which is 18^ 

inches. 

Draw a line from 6 through 7 to get 9; from 6 to 9 is y& inch less than M to K; from 9 
to 8 is J4 inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 6 by line U— V ; from 6 to 10 is ^ breast plus ^ inch ; draw a round- 
ing line from 10 to R. 

From ID to 3 is % breast plus y. inch; from 6 to 5 is % inch less than y^. breast; draw a 
line from 5 to 3 and shape the gorge. 

From TO to 36 is 3',4 inches; R to 13 and 4 to 15 are the same. 

From 26 to 27 is 2',< inches. 

Shape the front edge from 36 through 13. 15 and 27. 

From 27 to 28 is yz inch less than i/^ breast; from 16 hack to 11 is 6 inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus an extra y inch from 18 to 29 and 11 to 19, which is 20 
inches. 

From 19 to 20 is 2 inches: square up from 20 to get 21 : draw a line from 21 through 19 
to get 23 ; from 21 to 23 is the same as 21 to 22. 

Reduce the forepart % inch at Y, shape the side seam and bottom of forepart and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



47 




DIAGRAM 20. 



48 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 21 
AN EXAGGERATED DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9 inches Blade 12J/2 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 30>^ inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches Hip ^y inches 

Overshouldcr 17 inches 

This coat is exaggerated two inches over the breast. 

Draw line A — E and square out to L. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 3^4 inch, 9^,4 inches; to C is 17 inches; C to D is 6 
inches; A to E is 303^ inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is -}^ of 36 breast; square out from G, F, 
B, C, D and E. 

From C to 12 is ^ inch; draw a line from F to 12 and square down. 

From N to P is ^ of the exaggerated breast, 19 inches; P to Q is 1% inches; Q to R is 
J4 inch. 

S is half way between N and P ; from S to T is 3>^ inches ; square down from T to get Z. 

Apply the blade measure plus J 4 inch for every inch the breast is exaggerated from N to 
T, which is 13 inches, and square up. 

W is half way between N and T; from W to Y is i>< inches: square up from Y to locate 
point J. 

From J to K is J/ inch, more or less, according to the width of the shoulder desired. 

From Y to O is tV breast ; Y to X is 3^4 inch : square down from X. 

From A to L is yi of 36 breast plus Y^ inch ; L to M is ^s inch ; draw a line from M to K 
and shape the back. 

From Z to 4 is J/2 of 34 waist; square down from 4 to get jxiint 26. 

Point U is half way between Z and 4: point V is half wa\- between T and Q; draw a line 
from U through Y to get line 6. 

Apply the strap measure plus Y^ inch from A to M and T to 6, which is 12^ inches. 

.\pply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from X to H and T to 7, which is 18 inches. 

Draw a line from 6 through 7 to get 9 ; from; 6 to 9 is Y& inch less than M to K : from 9 to 
8 is J4 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 6 by line U — \^ ; from 6 to 10 is ]i breast plus >4 inch ; draw a round- 
ing line from 10 to R. 

From 10 to 3 is >^ breast plus J^ inch; 6 to 5 is '-4 inch less than ^i breast: draw a line 
from 5 to 3 and shape the gorge. 

From TO to 36 is 3'4 inches: R to 13 and 4 to 15 are the same. 

From 26 to 27 is 2 '4 inches: shape the front edge from 36 through 13. 15 and 27; from zy 
to 28 is V2 inch less than ^ of 36 breast: from 16 to 11 is $^i inches. 

Apply the actual hip measure plus an extra J 2 inch from 18 to 20 and ii to 19, which is 
10 inches. 

From 19 to 20 is 2 inches: square up from 20 to get 21 ; draw a line from 21 tb.rough 19 to 
get 2T,, and shape the side of forepart. 

From 21 to 23 is the same length as 30 to 22 ; shape the bottom of forepart and finish, 

Cut out an underarm fish as indicated. 



AMERICAN GAR M E N T C U T T E R. 




DIAGRAM 21. 



5o AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 22 
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Blade 14 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 42 inches 

Full length 32 inches Waist 42 inches 

Strap 13J4 inches Hip 44 inches 

Overshoulder 19 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to L. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, 10 inches; to C is 17 inches. C to D is 
6 inches; A to E is 32 inches. 

F is half way between A and B ; from F to G is iV breast; square out from G, F, B, C, D 
and E. 

From C to 12 is yi inch; draw a line from F to 12 and square down. 

From N to P is ^ breast, 21 inches; P to Q is 1% inches; Q to R is }^ inch. 

S is half way between N and P; from S to T is 35^ inches; square down from T to get Z; 
apply the blade measure from N and T and square up. 

W is half way between N and T; from W to Y is lyi inches; square up from Y to get J. 

From J to K is 1/2 inch, more or less according to the width of shoulder desired; Y to O 
is iV breast. Y to X is J4 inch ; square down from X. 

From A to L is 3^^ breast plus }i inch ; L to M is 5^ inch ; draw a line from M to K and 
shape the back. 

From Z to 4 is J/2 waist; square down from 4 to get point 26. 

Point U is half way between Z and 4; point V is half way between T and Q; draw a line 
from U through V to get line 6. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to M and T to 6, which is I4}4 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from N to H and T to 7, which is 20 inches. 

Draw a line from 6 through 7 to get 9; from 6 to 9 is }i inch less than M to K ; from 9 
to 8 is y2 inch ; shape the .shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 6 by line U — V; from 6 to 10 is % breast plus ,'-4 inch; draw a line 
from 10 to R. 

From 10 to 3 is % breast plus >4 inch; 6 to 5 is 'i breast less '4 inch; draw a line from 5 
through 3 and shape the gorge. 

From 10 to 36 is 354 inches; R to 13 and 4 to 15 arc the same. 

From 26 to 27 is 2j/$ inches; shape the front edge from 36, through 13, 15 and 27; from 
27 to 28 is i^ inch less than Ye brea.st ; 16 to 11 is 6 inches. 

Applv the hip measure in the same manner as in the single-breasted stout coat. 

From 18 to 29 and 11 to 19 is 5 inches more than the waist measure, which is 23J/2 inches. 

The actual hip measure is 22 inches. The difference between the actual hip measure and the 
proportionate hip measure, which is lyi inches, take out on the bottom of forepart between i 

and 35. 

From 19 to 20 is 2 inches; square up from 20 to get 21 ; draw a line from 21 through 19 to 
get 23, and shape the side of forepart. 

From 21 to 23 is the same length as 30 to 2:: shape ihe bottom of forepart and finish. 

The collar is cut as follows: 

A stout figure inv-iriablv hns a short neck, aiid for this reason the collar st-Jid slionld not 
be as high as the usual collnr stp.nd. Make the distance from 6 to 14, .'1 inch. 

Draw a line for the break of the lapel through 14; from 14 to 33 is 14 inch more than the 
distance from A to M on the hackpart; from 33 to 34 is i inch; from 33 to 31 is the leaf of the 
collar and is to he according to ta.ste. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



51 




DIAGRAM 22. 



52 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 23 
SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK COAT 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9% inches Overshoulder 175^ inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 38 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap I2>^ inches 

The fashionable waist measure is not always to be two inches longer than the natural waist 
measure. The way to get the fashionable waist length properly is as follows : >4 of the height 
plus 2 inches will always give the proper length for the fashionable waist. 

For instance, if a man's height is 5 feet 8 inches, >4 of the height would be his natural waist 
length. Add two inches to that, which would make it 19 inches for the fashionable waist 
length. But if a man whose height is 5 feet 6 inches, and his natural waist is 17 inches, the 
fashionable waist is made as follows : % oi $ feet 6 inches is 165^ inches. Add 2 inches for 
the fashionable waist, which would make it i8>4 inches. The difference between the natural and 
fashionable waist would be lyi inches in this case. 

Square down and out from A ; from A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch, 9^ inches ; to C 
is the natural waist length 17 inches, to D is the fashionable waist length, 19 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, 
and D. 

From C to U is ^ inch, or yi inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast. 

Draw a line from F to U and square down. 

From I to H is >< of the breast, 19 inches; H to I is i^ inches; I to J is ^ inch. 

K is half way between i and H; from K toL is TiVi inches; square down from L; apply the 
blade measure from i to L, which is 13 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L; from M to N is i'4 inches; square up from N to establish 
P— O. 

From P to Q is I inch ; O to 2 is K' inch ; B to 5 is 1-6 breast ; V to W is J^ breast; draw 
a line from W to 5 ; point S is i>^ inches below 5. 

Place your chalk at point O and the tape string at point S, and make a sweep as from Q to 7. 

From Q to 7 is the same length as O to S ; sweep from O back to S pivoting at 7 ; this will 
produce the shape of the back part. 

From A to R is J/& breast plus % inch; R to T is .\s inch: draw a line from T to 2 and 
shape the back. , 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 




DIAGRAM 23. 



54 AMERICAN GAR ME .V T C U T T E R 



DIAGRAM 24 

From X to Y is i^ inches; square down from Y. 

Point 19 is J4 inch below the waist line ; point 10 is yi inch below point 18 ; draw a line 
from Y to 10 for a guide. 

Point 9 is half way between L and M: point 3 is half way between Y and 4: draw a line 
from 9 to 3. 

From Q to Z is 3/ inch ; 29 is ^ inch above tlie waist line : shape the side body as indicated, 
reducing it % inch at 18. 

From 4 to 5 is J^ waist; square down from 5 to get point 15; from 15 to 16 is 1-6 breast; 
draw a line from 16 to 29. 

From 5 back to 6 is 2^ inches if a fish is to be taken out of the forepart ; if no fish is to be 
taken out of the forepart, the distance from 5 to 6 is 2 inches. 

A fish is taken out of the forepart when the waist is 3, 4 or 5 inches smaller than the breast, 
or if the breast is exaggerated: if the waist is only 2 inches (or less) smaller than the breast, 
there is no fish to be taken out. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which is 17 inches net, and shape 
the side of forepart as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



55 




DIAGRAM 24. 



56 AM ERIC AN G ARM E NT C UTTER. 



DIAGRAM 25 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and I ; draw a line from 
7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus -y^ inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 13^ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from i to 11 and L to 10, which is i85'^ inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is ^ inch less than T to 2; from 12 
to 13 is ^ inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8. 

From 9 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus '4 inch; draw a rounding line from 24 to J ; from 24 to 25 
is 1-6 breast; 9 to 30 is ^ breast; draw a line from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From J to 26 is i inch, and 5 to 14 is the same. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 19 to 20, 7 inches; 20 to 21 is ij.4 inches; draw a line from 19 through 
21 to get 22; from 19 to 22 is 34 inch more than W to 34; from 16 to 28 is the same length ai 
19 to 22; draw a line from 28 to 22. 

From 29 to 27 is 5i inch ; shape the skirt from 19 through 2y, reducing it 14 inch at 16. 

From 9 to 31 is i inch. 

Draw the lapel crease, mark the buttonholes, shape the frdnt, and finish, rounding the skirt 
% inch at 21. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



Si 




DIAGRAM 25. 



58 Am ERI C AN G A R M E N T C U T T E R. 

DIAGRAM 26 
ONE-BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9>4 inches Uvershoulder i8^ inches 

Natural waist length 17J/S inches Blade 131/$ inches 

Fashionable waist length igJ-S inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length 38 inches Waist 38 inches 

Strap 13 inches 

Draw X line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus >4 inch, 9^ inches; to C is 17^2 inches; to D is 1914 
inches ; to E is 38 inches. 

F is half way between A and B ; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, D 

and E. 

From C to U is }\ inch, or 14, inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast; draw 
a line from F to U and square down. 

From B to H is >4 of full breast, 20 inches; H to I is i^ inches; I to J is % inch; K is half 
way between B and H ; from K to L is 3^ inches; square down from L to get 4. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 13I/2 inches, and square up; M is half way between 
B and L; from M to N is i>4 inches; square up from N; this locates points P— O. 

From P to Q is I inch ; O to 2 is ^ inch ; V to W is ^ breast ; square down from W, and 
shape the back as instructed in the last diagram. 

From X to Y is i^ inches ; 18 to 19 is H inch ; Q to Z is >i inch. 

Point 3 is half way between Y and 4 ; shape the side body as indicated, reducing it >4 inch 
at the breast line. 

From 4 to 5 is ]/, waist; square down from 5 to get 15; from 15 to 16 is 1-6 breast; 
point 27 is J4 inch above the waist line; draw a line from 16 to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and I ; draw a line from 
7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^4 inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 13^ inches; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to n and L to 10, which is 193-4 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12: from 9 to 12 is ^ inch less than T to 2 ; from 12 
to 13 is y^ inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8. 

From 9 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus V4 inch; draw a rounding line from 24 to J; from 24 to 25 
is 1-6 breast; 9 to 30 is V^ breast; draw a line from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

This coat being only 2 inches smaller in the waist than the breast, no fish is taken out of 
the forepart. The distance, therefore, from 5 to 6, is 2 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which is 19 inches; shape [he 
side of forepart. 

From J to 26 is i inch : 5 to 14 is the same. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 18 to 20, 7 inches; 20 to 21 is i>< inches; draw a line from 19 through 
21 to get 22; from ig to 22 is \^ inch more than W to 34: from 16 to 28 is the same as 19 to 
22 ; draw a line from 28 to 22. 

From 29 to zy is -vg inch ; shape the top of skirt from 19 through 2y, reducing it 34 inch at 
16. 

Shape the front edge and skirt as indicated, rounding the latter V^ inch at 2t,. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



59 




DIAGRAM 3(5. 



6o AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 27 

THREE-BUTTON CUTAWAY EXAGGERATED FROCK. OTHERWISE KNOWN AS 

THE ENGLISH WALKING COAT 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9>4 inches Overshoulder I7>4 inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 38 mches 

Full length 37 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap I2j^ inches 

The breast is exaggerated 2 inches. 

Draw a line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, 914 inches; to C is the natural waist length 17 
inches; to D is fashionable waist length 19 inches; to E is full length, 37 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, D, 

and E. 

From C to U is ^ inch, or ys, inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast ; from 
B to 28 is 34 inch; shape the center seam from F through 28 to U and square down from U. 

From 28 to H is }^ of the exaggerated breast, 20 inches; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is J4 
inch. 

L is half way between 28 and H ; from L to M is 33^ inches ; square down from M to get 4. 

Apply the blade measure plus 34 inch for every inch the breast is exaggerated from 28 to 
M, which is 1334 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M ; from O to NMs 134 inches; square up from N; this locates 

points O — P. 

From P to 2 is 3^ inch ; O to Q is i inch ; V to W is 3^ breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R is 3^ breast plus }i inch; R to T is 5/g inch; draw a line from T to 2 ; shape 
the back part as usual. 

From X to Y is i>4 inches; square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is 34 inch; Q to Z is 34 inch; 3 is half way between Y and 4; draw a line 
from L to 3. 

Point 29 is 34 inch above the waist line. 

Shape the side body reducing it 34 inch at the breast line. 

From 4 to 5 is 34 of 36 waist; square down from 5 to locate point 15. 

From 15 to 16 is 1-6 breast; draw a line from 16 to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point Y is half way between M and J ; draw a line 
from 7 through Y to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus }i inch, from A to T and M to 9, which is 1334 inches; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 28 to 1 1 and M to 10, which is 1834 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12 ; from 9 to 12 is 3/s inch less than T to 2 ; from 12 
to 13 is 34 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye ; Square forward from 9 by line 7 — Y. 

From 9 to 24 is 1-6 of 40 breast plus 34 inch; draw a rounding line from 24 to K. 

From 24 to 25 is 1-6 breast ; 9 to 30 is 34; breast ; draw a line from 30 through 25 and shape 
the gorge. 

From K to 8 is I inch ; 5 to 14 is the same ; 5 to 6 is 2>4 inches. 

Apply the actual waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which is 17 inches net, 
and shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 18; from 18 to 20 is 7 inches; from 20 to 21 is 13^ inches; draw a line 
from 19 through 21 to get 22. 

From 19 to 22 is 34 inch more than W to 34 ; from 16 to 28 is the same as 19 to 22; draw 
a line from 28 to 22. 

From 29 to 27 is ^ inch. 

Shape the top of skirt from 19 through 27, reducing it 34 inch at 16 ; shape the front edge 
and skirt rounding the latter % inch at 23. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



6i 




DIAGRAM 27. 



62 AM ERI C A N G A RM E N r C U T T ER. ' '^ 

DIAGRAM 28 

THREE-BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 914 inches Overshoulder 18J/2 inches 

Natural waist length 171/$ inches Blade 13 J^ inches 

Fashionable waist length 19^ inches Breajt 40 inches 

Full length 38 inches Waist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch, 9^ inches; to C is natural waist length, 17I/2 
inches; to D is fashionable waist length, 19,1/2 inches ; to E is full length, 38 inches. 

F is half way between A and B ; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C. D 
and E. 

From B to H is >4 of full breast, 20 inches; H to I is i^ inches; I to J is ^ inch. 

K is half way between B and H ; from K to L is t,]/^ inches ; square down from L to get 4. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 13^4 inches, and square up. 

M. is half way between B and L ; from M to N is 1% inches ; square up from N ; this lo- 
cates P— O. 

From P to Q is I inch ; O to 2 is ^ inch ; D to W is >^ breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R is J^ breast plus J4 "ich ; R to T is % inch ; draw a line from T to 2 ; shape 
the back part the same as explained on the first diagram. 

From X to Y is 1% inches ; square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is % inch; Q to Z is 3^ inch; 3 is half way between Y and 4; point 27 is %, 
inch above the waist line ; shape the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 5 is 1/2 waist; square down from 5 to locate 15; from 15 to S is 1-6 breast. 

In all frock coats where the waist is as large as the breast, go down from S to U 5^ inch ; draw 
a line from U to zy. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and I ; draw a line from 
7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from .\ to T and L to 9. which is 13^^ inches; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 11 and L to 10, which is 19^4 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12 ; from 9 to 12 is V^ inch less than T to 2 ; from 12 to 
13 is J4 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8. 

From 9 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus J4 inch ; draw a line from 24 to J : from 24 to 25 is 1-6 breast; 
9 to 30 is Yf, breast ; draw a line from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From J to 26 is i inch; 5 to 14 is the same; shape the front edge through 26 and 14. 

Draw a straight line from 19 to S. 

Point 32 is where the two lines cross : cut out an ' .s inch \' at 32. 

From 5 to 6 is 2 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to C and 6 to 17, which is 20 inches net. and shape 
the side of forepart. 

If the distance between 17 and 3 is less than y'2 inch. lap the front over the side body as 
from 35 — 27, the amount to make up the 3/ inch. For instance, if the distance from 17 to 3 is 
y2 inch the front and the side body are to meet at the waist. If the distance from 17 to 3 is Y^ 
inch, let the overlap from 35 to zy be '4 incli. If llicre is nothing to come out between 17 and 3, 
then let the overlap be 3/2 inch. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 18 to 20. 7 inches; 20 to 21 is 1Y2 inches; draw a line from 19 through 
21 to get 22; from 19 to 22 is 3/4 inch more than W to 34. 

From U to 28 is the same as 19 to 22 ; draw a line from 28 to 22. 

From 27 to 29 is ■% inch. reducing it '4 inch at 16. 

Shape the top of skirt from 19 through 29 

Shape the front edge and skirt, rounding the latter 34 i"ch at 23. '^' 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



63 



1^,1 — iS 




DIAGRAM 28, 



64 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 29 
THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth lo inches Overshoulder 19^ inches 

Waist length 1 71/^ inches Blade I4>4 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 44 inches 

Full length 38 inches Waist 47 inches 

Strap 13% inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus H inch, 1054 inches ; to C is the natural waist length, 
iyy2 inches ; to D is fashionable waist length, 19 inches ; to E is full length, 38 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B C 
D and E. 

From B to H is Yz of full breast, 22 inches; H to I is i^ inches; from I to J is ^ inch; 
K is half way between B and H ; from K to L is 31/^ inches ; square down from L to get 4. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 143^ inches, and square up ; M is half way between 
B and L; from M to N is iJ4 inches; square up from N; this locates points P — O. 

From O to 2 is ^ inch. 

Note : In a fat man's coat the shoulder is never to be cut wide. 

From P to Q is I inch ; D to W is i^ breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R. is }i breast plus ^ inch ; R to T is ^/^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 and shape 
the back as usual. 

Whenever the waist is larger than the breast, make your suppression as follows : 

From 4 to 5 is 3/2 waist ; 5 to 6 is 2 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from X to C and 6 to Y, which is 23J/ inches net, leaving nothing 
to come out at 17 ; square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is 54 inch; from Q to Z is J4 inch. 

Point 17 is half way between Y and 4; point 35 is ]i inch above the waist line; shape the 
side body reducing it 34 inch at the breast line. 

Square down from 5 to locate point 15; from 15 to S is 1-6 breast; S to U is Yg, inch; draw 
a line froin U to 27 ; draw a straight line from ig through S. 

Point 32 is where the two lines cross; cut out a small V at 32. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and I ; draw a line from 

7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus Y^ '"ch from A to T and L to 9, which is i43/> inches ; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 11 and L to 10, which is 20Y2 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is % inch less than T to 2 ; from 12 
to 13 is Y^ inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Draw a line from K to 17 and shape the side of forepart and the side body as from K to 17. 

Between 35 and 27, the forepart laps over the side body, Y^ inch. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus '4 inch. 

Place the square at line 7 — 8 and square forward as to 34 ; from 8 to 34 is the same as from 

8 to J; draw a line from 24 to 34. 

From 24 to 35 is 1-6 breast ; 9 to 30 is J/^ breast; draw a line from 30 through 25 and shape 
the gorge. 

From 34 to 26 is i inch ; 5 to 14 is the same. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 18, from 18 to 20 is 7 inches; 20 to 21 is 1Y2 inches; draw a line from 
19 through 21 to get 22. 

From 19 to 22 is 34 inch more than W to 34; from U to 28 is the same as 19 to 22; draw a 
line from 28 to 22. 

From 27 to 29 is ^4, inch. 

Shape the top of skirt from 19 through 29, reducing it '4 inch at 16. 

Measure the waist seam from 19 to 35, and 2^ to the front edge; make the skirt from 19 
to 16 the same amount. 

Shape the front edge and skirt, rounding the latter Ya inch at 23. 

This diagram being for a corpulent figure, with a short neck, from 9 to 31 should be no more 
than Yi inch. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



65 




DIAGRAM 29. 



66 AM ERIC AN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 30 
SINGLE BREASTED STRAIGHT FRONT FROCK 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Natural waist length i6j^ inches Blade I2>1 inches 

Fashionable waist length . i8>^ inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 41 inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch, 9'i inches ; to C is the natural waist length 16^ 
inches; to D is the fashionable waist length, i8>4 inches; to E is the full length, 41 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, 
D and E. 

From C to U is >4 inch, or ^ inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast ; draw 
a line from F to U and square down. 

From I to H is >^ of full breast, 18 inches; H to S is \}i inches; S to J is ^ inch. 

K is half way between i and H ; from K to L is y/i inches ; square down from L to get 4. 

Apply the blade measure from i to L, which is 12I/2 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L ; from M to N is i ^ inches ; square up from N ; this locates 
points P — O. 

From O to 2 is >4 inch ; P to Q is i inch ; V to W is Ya breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R is i/^ breast plus ^ inch ; R to T is 5^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 ; shape the 
back part as per former instructions. 

From X to Y is I % inches ; square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is Y^ inch; Q to Z is ^ inch; 3 is half way between Y and 4; draw a line 
from K to 3. 

Point 29 is Ya inch above the waist line ; shape the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 5 is ^ waist; square down from 5; this locates point 15. 

From 15 to 16 is 1-6 breast; 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L 
and S ; draw a line from 7 through 8 to ge: line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus J4 inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 12^ inches ; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from i to 35 and L to 10, which is 18 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12 ; from 9 to 12 is % inch less than T to 2 : from 12 
to 13 is Yi inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8. 

From 9 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus Ya inch ; draw a rounding line from 24 to J ; from 24 to 25 is 
1-6 breast plus Ya inch; 9 to 30 is Y& breast; draw a line from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 5 back to 6 is 2Y2 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which is 16 inches net, and shape 
the side of forepart. 

Draw a straight line from 19 to 16 and shape the bottom of the forepart from 29 to 16 as 

indicated. 

From 24 to 27 is i inch ; J to 26 and 5 to 14 are the same ; shape the front edge to the waist 

line. 

From 25 to II is 2 inches, or may be made according to taste. 

THE SKIRT 

Place the square to line 19 — 16 and square down to 20. 

From 19 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 is lYi inches ; draw a line from 19 through 21 to get 33. 
From 19 to 33 is Ya inch more than W to 34 ; square down the front edge of skirt by the 
waist line. 

From 16 to 28 is the same length as 19 to 33. 

Shape the bottom of skirt and round J4 inch at 21. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



67 




DIAGRAM 30 



68 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 3 J 

SINGLE-BREASTED CLERGYMANS FROCK 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9M inches Overshoulder 17 J/^ inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 42 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap 125^ inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus K inch, 9>^ inches; to C is the natural waist, 17 inches; 
to D is the fashionable waist length, 19 inches ; to E is the full length, 42 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, D 

and E. 

From C to U is >4 inch ; draw a line from F to U and square down. 

From I to H is J/ of full breast, 19 inches; H to S is i^ inches; S to J is J4 inch. 

K is half way between i and H ; from K to L is 3>^ inches ; square down from L to locate 

point 4. 

Apply the blade measure from i to L, which is 13 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L; from M to N is ij^ inches; square up from N ; this locates 

points P — O. 

From O to 2 is >4 inch ; P to Q is i inch ; V to W is J^ breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R is J^ breast plus ^ inch ; R to T is ^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 and 
shape the back as usual. 

From X to Y is i >4 inches ; square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is ^ inch; Q to Z is J4 inch; 3 is half way between Y and 4; draw a line 
from K to 3. 

Point 29 is yi inch above the waist line. 

Shape the side body as indicated, reducing it '4 inch at the breast line. 

From 4 to 5 is i/l waist; square down from 5: this locates point 15; from 15 to 16 is 1-6 
breast. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and S ; draw a line from 
7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus J4 inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 1354 inches; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from i to 35 and L to 10, which is i8i/^ inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12: from 9 to 12 is % inch less than T to 2; from 
12 to 13 is ^ inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 27 is 1-6 of the shirt collar; 27 to 24 is 
1/2 inch; draw a rounding line from 24 to J. 

From 24 to 25 is 1-6 of the shirt collar plus i/4 inch; 9 to 30 is ^ breast; draw a line from 
30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 5 back to 6 is 2j4 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which is 7 inches net, and shape 
the side of forepart. 

Draw a straight line from 19 to 16. This gives the top of skirt. Shape the bottom of 
forepart from 29 into line 16 as indicated. 

From 25 to 23 is >4 inch; J to 26 and 5 to 31 are the same; shape the front edge from 23 
through 26 and 31 ; this is for the left front. 

From 23 to II is I inch; 31 to 14 is the same; shape the edge from 11 through 14; this is 
for the right front and the button stand. 

THE STANDING COLLAR 

Draw a straight line from 25 through 9; from 25 to 22 is >^ inch more than half the shirt 
collar ; square up and down from 22 ; from 22 to 32 is % inch. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 

THE SKIRT 

Place the square to line 19 — 16 and square down to 20; from 19 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 
is i>4 inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 to get 33. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



69 




DIAGRAM 31. 

From 19 to 33 is ^ inch more than from W to 34; from 16 to 28 is the same as 19 to 33. 

Square down the front edge of the skirt by the waist Hne. 

Shape the bottom of skirt and finish, rounding it ^ inch at 21. 

This coat is also used for the Knights Templar and by changing the standing to a Prussian 
collar and putting flaps on the back of the skirts, as indicated on Diagram 32, it can be used for 
a policeman's frock undercoat. 



70 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 32 
POLICEMAN'S FROCK 

Diagram 32 is a policeman's frock coat and is made in the same way as Diagram 31 except- 
ing the Prussian collar, which is made as follows : 

Draw a straight line from 23 through 9; from 9 to 36 is J^ inch more than the top width 
of the back; square up and down from 36. 

From 36 to 35 is i34 inches; from 23 to 30 is the same. 

Draw a line for the collar stand as from 36 through 9 to 30 ; from 36 to 22 is 2>4 inches. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



71 




DIAGRAM 32. 



72 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 33 
SINGLE-BREASTED STRAIGHT FRONT FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9.!^ inches Overshoulder i8>4 inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade I3>4 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length 41 inches Waist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ,'4 inch, 9% inches ; to U is the natural waist length, 
17 inches; to V is the fashionable waist length, 19 inches; to E is the full length, 41 inches. 

F is half way between A and B. From F to G is 1-12 breast: square out from G, F, B, 
U, V and E. 

From B to H is >^ of full breast, 20 inches. H to S is i^ inches. S to J is % inch. 

K is half way between B and H ; from K to L is 3>^ inches ; square down from L to get 4. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, which is i^yi inches, and square up. 

M is half way between B and L: from M to N is Ij4 inches; square up from N; this 
locates points P — O. 

From O to 2 is 3^ inch. P to Q is i inch. 

From V to W is >i breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R is ^ breast plus % inch. R to T is ^ inch; draw a line from T to 2 and 
shape the back as usual. 

From X to Y is 1% inches; square down from Y; from 18 to 19 is % inch. 
From Q to Z is >4 inch; 3 is half way between Y and 4; shape the side body from K 
through 3. 

Point 29 is % inch above the waist line. Finish the side body reducing it % inch at 
the breast line. 

From 4 to 5 is ^ waist; square down from 5; this locates point 15. 

From 15 to 16 is 1-6 breast; 16 to D is 5^ inch; draw a line from D to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5: point 8 is half way between L and S; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to locate line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus }i inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 13% inches; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 19J/2 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is % inch less than T to 2 ; from 
12 to 13 is 1/2 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8. 

From 9 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus ^ inch; draw a line from 24 to J. 

This being a peaked lapel, the distance from 24 to 25 is 1-6 breast plus yi inch. 

From 9 to 30 is Ys breast less % inch ; draw a line from 30 to 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 24 to 27 is i inch. J to 26 and 5 to 14 are same. 

Shape the front edge from 2y through 26 and 14. 

From 5 to 6 is 2 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which is 20 inches net, and 
shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a straight line from 19 to 16, and square down from 19 to 20; point 31 is where the 
two lines cross; cut out a small V at 31. 

From 19 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 is i5<2 inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 to 
get 33. 

From 19 to 33 is Y inch more than W to 34 ; from 11 to 28 is the same as 19 to 33. 
Square down the front edge of skirt by the waist line. 

Reduce the forepart from 11 to 36 about Vs inch. 

Shape the bottom of skirt from 33 to 28 and finish, rounding it % inch at 21. 



AMERICAN G ARM EXT CUTTER. 



73 




DIAGRAM 33.- 



74 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 34 
SINGLE-BREASTED STRAIGHT FRONT FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9J4 inches Overshoulder 19 inches 

Natural waist length 171^ inches Blade 14 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19^ inches Breast 42 inches 

Full length 41 inches Waist 44 inches 

Strap 13/^ inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch, 10 inches ; to U is the natural waist length, 
17J4 inches; to V is the fashionable waist length, 19I/2 inches; to E is the full length, 41 
inches. 

F is half way between A and B. From F to G is 1-12 breast. 

Square out from G, F, B, U, V and E. 

From B to H is >4 of full breast, 21 inches. H to S is i^ inches. S to J is ^ inch. 

K is half way between B and H. From K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from L to 

get 4- 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, which is 14 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between B and L. From M to N is ij4 inches. Square up from N. 

This locates points P — O. From O to 2 is J4 inch. 

From A to R is i/g breast plus ^ inch. R to T is J^ inch. Draw a line from T to 2. 

From V to W is J/8 breast. Square down from W and shape the back. 

Whenever the waist is larger than the breast, make your suppression as follows: 

From 4 to 5 is >^ waist. Square down from 5. This locates point 15. From 15 to 16 is 
1-6 breast. 16 to D is 5^ inch. 

From 5 to 6 is 2 inches. 

Now apply the waist measure from X to U and 6 to Y, which is 22 inches net. 

Square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is % inch. Q to Z is I/2 inch. Point 17 is half way between Y and 4. 
Draw a line from K to 17. 

Shape the side body and the side of forepart as indicated, allowing the forepart to lap 
over the side body I/2 inch, from 29 to C. 

Draw a line from D to C. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5. Point 8 is half way between L and S. Draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 14% inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 20 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12. 

From 9 to 12 is ^ inch less than T to 2. From 12 to 13 is yi inch. Shape the shoulder 
and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8. 

From 9 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus 14 inch; square forward from 8 by line 7—8; from 8 
to 36 is che same as 8 to J. Draw a line from 24 to 36. 

From 24 to 25 is 1-6 breast. 9 to 30 is % breast ; draw a line from 30 through 25 and 
shape the gorge. 

From 36 to 26 is i inch; 5 to 14 is the same; shape the front edge through 26 and 14. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a straight line from 19 to 16 for the top of skirt. 

Point 31 is where the skirt line crosses the front. Cut out a small V at 31. 

From II to 27 is 3 inches. Shape the forepart, from 27 to 11, taking out about }4 inch 
between 11 and 16. 

Place the square to line 19 — 16 and square down from 19 to 20. From 19 to 20 is 9 
inches; 20 to 21 is lyi inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 to get 33. 

From 19 to 33 is % inch more than from W to 34; from 16 to 28 is the same as 19 to 
33. Square down the front edge of skirt by the waist line. 

Shape the bottom of skirt and finish, rounding it % inch at 21. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



75 




DIAGRAM 34. 



76 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 35 

A CASSOCK 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth Q/'^ mches Overshoulder 17H inches 

Natural waist length IJ'A inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19/2 inches Breast 38 mches 

Full length 56 inches Waist 35 mches 

Strap I2>4 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus '4 inch, 9M inches; to C is the natural waist length, I7>4 
inches; to D is the fashionable waist length, 19/2 inches; to E is the full length, 56 inches. 

Fis half way between A and B. From F to G is iV breast. Square out from G, F, B, C, 

D and E. 

From C to U is % inch. Draw a line from F to U. 

From E to 27 is >4 breast, 4% inches. Draw a line from U to 27. 

From I to H is ><^ of full breast, 19 inches. From H to S is i^ inches. From S to J is 

^ inches. 

K is half way between i and H. From K to L is 31^ inches. Square down from L to 

get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure from i to L, which is 13 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L. From M to N is iji inches. Square up from N. 

This locates points P — O. 

From O to 2 is >< inch. 

From A to R is >^ breast plus 3/4 inch. From R to T is 5^ inch. Draw a line from T to 2. 

From V to W is ^ breast plus '4 inch. From E to 34 is 14 breast plus 3 inches, which 
is 7^ inches. Draw a line from W to 34 and shape the back. 

From X to Y is iJ4 inches. 3 is half way between Y and 4. Square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is >4 inch. From Q to Z is M inch. Draw a line from K to 3 and shape 
the side body as usual. 

From 4 to 6 is J/2 waist. Square down from 6. This locates point 15. From 15 to 16 is 
■4 inch less than yi breast. Draw a line from 16 through 29 to 31. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 6. 8 is half way between L and S. Draw a line from 
7 through 8 to get 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus }i inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 13 '4 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from i to 35 and L to 10, which is 8^4 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12. From 9 to 12 is J4 inch less than T to 2. From 
12 to 13 is yi inch. Shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8. From 9 to 24 is J/6 of the shirt collar plus yi inch. 
Draw a rounding line from 24 to J. 

From 24 to 23 is J^ of the shirt collar plus 44 inch. From 9 to 30 is Ys breast. Draw a 
line from 30 to 23 and shape the gorge. 

From 23 to 25 is 54 inch. From J to 20 and 6 to 5 are the same. 

Square down from point 16 by the waist line. 

From 25 to II is I inch. From 20 to 26 and 3 to 14 are the same. Shape the front edge. 

Line 25 — 20 — 5 is the left front edge. Line 11 — 26 — 14 is the right front edge. 

Place the square to 31 — 29 and square down to 21. 

From 31 to 21 is 9 inches. From 21 to I is 134 inches. Draw a line from 31 through I 
to get 33. 

From 31 to 33 is 54 inch more than W to 34. From 16 to 28 is 54 inch less than W to 34. 
Shape the bottom of skirt and finish. 

Note. — An extra seam is to be added to the side body at line 19 — 29 and also to the skirt 
at line 31 — 29. 

From 6 to II is 254 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and u to 17, which is 175^ inches net, 
and shape the side of forepart. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



77 




DIAGRAM 35. 



78 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 36 
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9% inches Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 42 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap I2y2 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, g% inches; to C is natural waist length, 17 
inches; to D is fashionable waist length, 19 inches; to E is full length, 42 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, 
D and E. 

From C to U is 14 inch, or Yg inch for eve^y inch the waist is smaller than the breast. Draw 

a line from F to U and square down. 

From I to H is >4 of full breast, 19 inches; H to S is i^ inches; S to J is ^ inch. 

K is half way between i and H ; from K to L is 3^ inches ; square down from L to 
get 4. 

Apply the blade measure from i to L, which is 13 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L; from M to N is iJ4 inches; square up from N; this 
locates points P — O. From O to 2 is i^S inch ; P to Q is i inch. 

From V to W is ^ breast; square down from W. 

From A to R is i/g breast plus ^ inch ; R to T is 5-^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 and 
shape the back as usual. 

From X to Y is i^ inches; square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is % inch. From O to Z is'/^ inch. 

Point 3 is half way between Y and 4. Draw a line from K to 3. 

Point 29 is % inch above the waist line; shape the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 5 is J^ waist; square down from 5 to locate point 31. From 31 to 16 is 1-6 
breast. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and S. Draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^4 inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 13^ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from i to 35 and L to 10, which is iS^ inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12. From 9 to 12 is % inch less than T to 2 ; from 
12 to 13 is 14 inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from point by line 7 — 8. 

From 9 to 24 is 1-6 breast ; from 24 to 27 is yi inch. Shape the front edge from 27 
through J and 5. 

From 27 to 25 is 1-6 breast plus yi inch; from 9 to 30 is % breast less % inch; draw a 
line from 30 to 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 5 to 6 is 23^ inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which is 17 inches net, and 
shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 19, and square down from 19. 

From 19 to 20 is 9 inches; from 20 to 21 is ij^ inches. Draw a line from 19 through 21 
to get 33. 

From ig to 33 is % inch more than W to 34. From 16 to 28 is the same as 19 to 33. 
Shape the bottom of skirt from 33 to 28 and add ^i inch at 14. 

Shape the bottom of forepart from 29 to 16. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line as from 16 to I. 

Sweep from 16 co 15, pivoting at I. From 16 to 15 is 2^ inches, or the width of rever 
desired. 

From J to 26 is 3 J^ inches ; from I to 1 1 is 2I/2 inches. 

Square down the front edge of skirt by the waist line, and finish as represented This gives 
a slightly flared skirt. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



79 




DIAGRAM 36. 



THE COLLAR 

From 9 to 23 is i inch. 

Draw a line from 23 up and down for the lapel crease. 

From 23 to 38 is i^ inch more than A to T. Square up and down from 38. 
From 38 to 37 is 1% inches; from 38 to 39 is i^ inches, or to taste. Shape the collar 
as indicated. 



8o AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 37 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK WITH A CLOSE FITTING SKIRT 

This diagram is made the same as diagram 36, except the skirt, which is made as follows : 
From 18 to 20 is 7 inches; 20 to 21 is i>4 inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 to 
get 22. 

From 19 to 22 is J4 ind^ more than the back skirt ; from 16 to 28 is the same as 19 to 22. 
From 29 to 24 is y& inch ; shape the top of skirt from 19 through 24 and 16. 
From 21 to 14 is ^ inch; shape the skirt and finish as indicated. 



A M ERIC AN GAR M E N T C U T T E R. 




_28|. 



diagra:\I 37. 



82 AM ERIC AN GARM ENT CUTT ER. 

DIAGRAM 38 
DOUBLE-BREASTED EXAGGERATED FROCK WITH A FULL FLARING SKIRT 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9% inches Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 42 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap I2j4 inches 

This coat is exaggerated two inches over the breast. 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^-4 inch, gS/^ inches ; to C is the natural waist length, 
17 inches; to D is the fashionable waist length, 19 inches; to E is the full length, 42 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 of 38 breast; square out from G, F, 
B, C, D and E. 

From C to U is ^ inch or y% inch for every inch the breast is larger than the waist ; from 
B to I is 34 inch ; shape the center back from F through i to U and square down from U. 

From I to H is J^ of the exaggerated breast, 20 inches. H to S is i^ inches; from S 
to J is % inch. 

K is half way between i and H; from K to L is T,y2 inches; square down from L to 
get 4. 

Apply the blade measure plus an extra ^ inch for every inch the breast is exaggerated 
from I to L, which is 13^/2 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L; from M to N is i'/4 inches; square up from N; this 
locates points P — O. 

From O to 2 is 1/2 inch ; P to Q is i inch ; V to W is }i breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R is J/^ of 38 breast plus ^ inch ; R to T is ^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 
and shape the back. 

From X to Y is i}4 inches; square down from Y. 

Point 19 is J4 inch below the waist line ; O to Z is ^X inch. 

Point 3 is half way between Y and 4 ; draw a line from K to 3. 

Point 29 is li inch above the waist line; shape the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 5 is J^ of 36 waist; square down from 5; this locates point 31. 

From 31 to 16 is 1-6 of 38 breast; 7 is half way between 4 and 5; point 8 is half way 
between L and S ; draw a line from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus % inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 13J4 inches; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from i to 35 and L to 10, which is 185^ inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is ^ inch less than T to 2 ; from 
12 to 13 is 1/2 inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 27 is 1-6 of 38 breast plus Yz inch; shape 
the front edge from 27 through J and 5. 

From 27 to 25 is 1-6 breast plus Yz inch ; 9 to 30 is j/^ breast less Y4 inch ; draw a line 
from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 5 to 6 is 2Y2 inches. 

Apply the actual waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which is 17 inches net, 
and shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 19; this locates point 24. 

From 19 to 18 is ^4 inch. 

Draw a line from 24 to 18 and square down to 20: from 18 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 
is lYz inches; draw a line from 18 through 21 to get 33; from 18 to 33 is % inch more than 
W to 34; from 16 to 28 is the same as 18 to 33. 

Shape the bottom of skirt from 33 through 28 ; shape the bottom of forepart from 29 to 
16, as indicated. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line as from 16 to I ; from 16 to I is the same length as 16 to 25; sweep 
from 16 to 15 pivoting at I. 

From 16 to 15 is 2Y2 inches, more or less, according to the width of rever desired; from 
J to 26 is 3^ inches; I to 11 is 2Y2 inches; square down from point 15 by the waisi line. 

Shape the rever and finish the skirt, rounding it ^ inch at 14. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



83 




DIAGRAM 38. 



84 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 39 
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK FOR STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth g^^ inches Overshoulder 19 inches 

Natural waist length I7>4 inches Blade 14 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19^^ inches Breast 42 inches 

Full length 42 inches Waist 42 inches 

Strap 1334 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus '4 inch, 10 inches ; to C is the natural waist length, 
17^ inches ; to D is the fashionable waist length, 1914' inches ; to E is full length. 42 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, 
D and E. 

From B to H is i/^ of full breast, 21 inches; H to S is i^ inches; S to J is ^ inch. 

K is half way between B and H ; from K to L is 3I/2 inches ; square down from L to get 
point 4; apply the blade measure from B to L, 14 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between B and L ; from M to N is 1 54 inches ; square up from N ; this 
locates points P — ^O. 

From O to 2 is 34 inch. P to Q is i inch ; D to W is V^ breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R is 3^ breast plus J4 '"ch ; R to T is -^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 and 
shape the back. 

From X to Y is i34 inches; square down from Y. 

From 18 to 19 is J4 inch; O to Z is ^4 inch; 3 is half way between Y and 4; draw a line 
from K to 3. 

Point 29 is 34 inch above the waist line ; shape the side body. 

From 4 to 5 is 34 waist; square down from 5; this locates point 31. 

From 31 to 16 is 1-6 breast; 16 to U is % inch ; point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 
8 is half way between L and S ; draw a line from 7 through 8 to get 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus % inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 1434 inches; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 20 inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is V^ inch less than T to 2 ; from 
12 to 13 is 34 inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 27 is 1-6 breast plus 34 inch; shape the 
front edge from 27 through J and 5. 

From 27 to 25 is 1-6 breast plus 34 inch; 9 to 30 is 34 breast less 34 inch; draw a line 
from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 5 to 6 is two inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to G and 6 fo 17, which is 21 inches net, and shape 
the side of forepart. 

Draw a line from 29 to U. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a straight line from 19 to 16; point 24 is where the two lines cross; cut out a small 
V at 24. 

Square down from 19 to 20 by the top of skirt; from 19 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 is 
134 inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 to get 33. 

From 19 to 33 is 34 inch more than W to 34; from 16 to 28 is the same as 19 to t^t^; 
shape the bottom of .skirt from 33 through 28. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line from 16 to I ; from 16 to I is the same as 16 to 25 ; from 16 to 36 
is 234 inches; sweep from 36 forward to 15, pivoting at I. 

From 16 to 15 is 234 inches; make the width of rever at 26, 334 inches. I to 11 is 234 
inches; square down from point 15 by the waist line. 

Shape the rever and finish the skirt, rounding it 54 inch at 14. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



85 




DIAGRAM 39. 



86 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 40 
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth lo inches Overshoulder 193^ inches 

Natural waist length 17^2 inches Blade I4>4 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19K' inches Breast 44 inches 

Full length 4234 inches Waist 48 inches 

Strap 13^ inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch, 10% inches; to C is 173/2 inches; to D is 193/2 
inches ; to E is 42^^ inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, 
D and E. 

From B to H is 3^ of full breast, 22 inches ; H to S is i J4 inches ; S to J is J4 inch. Square 
up from J ; K is half way between B and H ; from K to L is 334 inches ; square down from L 
to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 143/i inches, and square up. 

M is half way between B and L; from M' to N is 13^ inches; square up from N. This 
locates points P — O. 

From O to 2 is 34 inch ; P to Q is i inch ; D ta W is 3^ breast ; square down from W. 

From A to R is 3^ breast plus % inch ; R to T is ^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 and 
shape the back. 

This waist being larger than the breast, make the waist suppression as follows : 

From 4 to 5 is J4 waist ; 5 to 6 is 2 inches ; apply the waist measure from iX to C and 5 
to Y, which is 24 inches ; square down from Y. 

Point 19 is y^ inch below the waist line ; Q to Z is J4 inch ; 17 is half way between Y and 
4; draw a line from K to 17. 

Points V and 29 are 34 inch above the waist line. 

Shape the side body and side of forepart as indicated. 

Square down from 5; this locates point 31. 

From 31 to II is 1-6 breast; 11 to 40 is 5/^ inch; draw a line from 40 to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5; point 8 is half way between L and S; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus % inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 143^ inches ; apply 
the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 203^ inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is ^ inch less than T to 2 ; from 12 
to 13 is 3^ inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from Q l)y line 7 — 8. 

From 9 to 27 is 1-6 breast plus 3^ inch. 

Place the square to line 7 — 8 and square from 8 forwards ; this locates point 43. 

Shape the front edge from 27 through 43 and 5 

From 27 to 25 is 1-6 breast plus 3^ inch; 9 to 30 is ]/& breast less H inch; draw a line 
from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a straight line for the top of the skirt from 11 to 19 and square down from 19. 

Point 36 is where the two lines cross ; cut out ''a small V at 36. 

From 19 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 is i3< inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 to get 33. 

From 19 to 33 is 34 inch more than W to 34; from 11 to 16 is 3^ inch; draw a line from 
16 through 5 to get point I. 

From II to 18 is 23/2 inches; sweep from 18 to 24 pivoting at I. 

Make the width of the rever from 16 to 24, 23^ inches, from I to 11 the same; at 26 make 
the width 33/2 inches or to taste. 

Square down from point 16 by the waist line; from 16 to 28 is the same as 19 to 33; 
sweep from 18 to 15 pivoting at 28. 

Shape the top of skirt from 19 through 36 and 18 to 15; square down from 15 by the waist 
line. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 




DIAGRAM 40. 
Shape the rever and finish the skirt, rounding it J4 inch at 14. 

THE COLLAR 

From 19 to 23 is ^ inch; draw a line for the lapel crease through 23; from 23 to 38 is Yz 
inch more than A to T; square up and down from 38. 

From 38 to 37 is i inch; 38 to 30 is 2 inches; 3 to i is 1% inches. 
Shape the collar as indicated. 



88 



AM ERIC A N GAR M E N T C UTT E R. 



DIAGRAM 4 J 
TUXEDO COAT 



Blade 13 inches 

Breast 38 inches 

Waist 34 inches 

Hip 39 inches 



The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth gy& inches 

Waist length 17 inches 

Full length 31 inches 

Strap 12^ inches 

Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scje depth plus Yj^. inch, gy& inches; to C is 17 inches; from C to D 
is 6 inches; from A to E is 31 inches; F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1/12 
breast ; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is yi inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is >1 of full breast, 19 inches; H to J is 1% inches; J to K is % inch; L 
is half way between 28 and H; from L to M is y/^ inches; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M, which is 13 inches and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M; from Oto P is i}4 inches; square up from P; this 
locates point R; from R to S is >^ inch; from P to V is 1/12 breast; P to O is ^ inch; 
square down from Q ; from A to T is J^ breast plus ^ inch ; T to U is ^/g inch ; shape the 
back. 

From N to W is Yz waist ; square down from W to locate point Z ; from Z to I is ^ inch 
less than 1/6 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a 
line froni'X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus 3^ inch from A to U and M to 25, which is \t,Ya. inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 28 to '2 and M to 3, which is 18^ 
inches ; draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is ^ inch less than U to S ; from 
4 to 5 is J4 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by Hne X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 breast plus 34 inch; draw a 
line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus i inch ; 25 to 23 is Ya indi less than Y& breast ; 
draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From ID to II is 3 inches; apply the hip measure plus an extra Y^ ''ich from 12 to 13 and 
II to 14, which is 20 inches; from 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to get point 20; 
draw a line from 20 through 14 to get 16, and shape the side of forepart. 

From 20 to 16 is the same as 20 to 15; shape the bottom of forepart. 

The collar is made as follows : 

From 10 back to 30 is Y2 inch ; from 25 to 22 is i >4 inches ; draw a line from 30 through 22 ; 
from 22 to 18 is Y2 inch more than A to T ; fiom 18 to 31 is the width of the collar desired 
plus Ya- inch; from W to 33 is 1Y2 inches; draw a line from 31 to 33; from 18 to 33 is l% 
inches ; shape the collar and shawl as indicated and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



89 




DIAGRAM 41. 



go AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 42 
TUXEDO COAT WITH A PEAKED LAPEL 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9>4 inches Blade 13M inches 

Waist length i? inches Breast 39 inches 

Full length 31 inches Waist 35 inches 

Strap 12^ inches Hip 40 inches 

Overshoulder 18 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 9^ inches; to C is 17 inches; from C to D 
is 6 inches; A to E is 31 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1/12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, 

D and E. 

From C to 17 is 14 inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is >4 of full breast igyi inches; H to J is 1% inches; from J to K is ^ 
inch; L is half way between 28 and H; from L to M is 3>4 inches; square down from M to 

get N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M, which is 1^% inches and square up; O is half 
way between 28 and M; from O to P is i>4 inches; square up from P; this locates point R; 
from R to S is >4 inch. 

From, P to V is 1/12 breast ; P to Q is K' inch ; square down from Q ; from A to T is >^ 
breast plus ji inch ; from T to U is 5^ inch ; draw '.a line from U to S and shape the back. 

From N to W is J^ waist, W to 9 is i inch. Square down from W; this locates points 
10 and Z; from Z to I is >4 inch less than 1-6 breast; X is half way between N and W; Y 
is half way between M and J ; draw a line from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to U and M to 25, which is 13K' inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus l inch from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 19 

inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4; from 25 to 4 is y& inch less than U to S ; from 4 
to 5 is y2 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X— Y ; from 25 to 6 is 1/6 breast plus yi inch; draw a 
line from 6 to K : from 6 to 24 is 1/6 breast plus i inch; from 25 to 23 is % inch less than 
y breast ; draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From 10 to II is 3 inches; apply the hip measure plus an extra ^ inch from 12 to 13 
and II to 14, which is 20j4 inches; from 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to get point 
20; draw a line from 20 through 14 to get 16; from 20 to 16 is the same length as 19 to 15; 
shape the side and bottom of forepart. 

The collar and lapel are made as follows: 

From 25 to 22 is Ij4 inches; draw a line from point 10 through 22; from 22 to 18 is >4 
inch more than A to U; square up and down from 18; from 18 to 31 is the width of the collar 
plus % inch; from 18 to 36 is 1%. inches. 

From 7 to 24 is 21/' inches; cut out a ^ inch V at 24; make the width of lapel to taste 
and shape the forepart through point 10; shape the collar and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



91 




DIAGRAM 42. 



92 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 43 

SHOWS HOW TO MAKE A TUXEDO OUT OF AN ORDINARY SACK COAT 

From lo back to 30 is i inch; from 25 to 22 is 1J4 inches; draw a line from 22 to 30; from 
W to 33 is yi inch ; from 22 to 6 is the width of the collar desired plus 34 inch ; from 6 to 24 
is 1/6 breast plus i inch; draw a line from 6 to 33 and shape the collar as indicated. 

All other Tuxedos for either stout or corpulent figures are made in the same way as the 
ordinary sack coat, except the shape of either the peaked lapel or the shawl collar, which are 
shaped as herein shown. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



93 




DIAGRAM 43- 



94 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

AGRAM 44 

EVENING DRESS COAT 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9J^ inches Overshoulder , 17^ inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 41 inches Waist . 34 inches 

Strap i2>^ inches 

Draw line A — E and a square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, gY^ inches ; to C is the natural waist length, 
17 inches; to D is the fashionable waist length, 19 inches; to E is the full length, 41 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1/12 breast; square out from G, F, B, 
C, D and E. 

From C to U is Yi inch or 3^ inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast; 
draw a line from F to U and square down. 

From I to H is 34 of full breast, 19 inches; H to J is 1% inches; K is half way between 
I and H ; from K to L is 3^4 inches ; square down from L to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure from i to L, which is 13 inches, and square up; M is half way 
between i and L ; from M to N is 1 34 inches ; square up from N ; this locates points P — O ; 
from O to 2 is J/2 inch. 

From V to W is 34 breast ; square down from W ; from A to R is J^ breast plus 54 inch ; 
R to T is ^ inch; draw a line from T to 2 and shape the back. 

From X to Y is iJ4 inches; square down from Y; from 18 to 19 is J4 inch; Q to Z is J4 
inch ; point 3 is half way between Y and 4 ; point 29 is 34 inch above the waist line ; shape 
the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 39 is 34 waist; square down from 39, this locates point 31; from 31 to 15 is 
1/6 breast; draw a line from 15 to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 39 ; point 8 is half way between L and J ; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus J4 inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 1334 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from i to 35 and L to 10, which is 18^ 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is Yg, inch less than T to 2 ; from 
12 to 13 is 34 inch; shape the shoulder and amr^cye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8 ; from 9 to 27 is 1/6 breast plus 34 inch ; from 39 
to 5 is I inch ; shape the front edge from 27 through J and S ; this locates point 16. 

From 27 to 25 is 1/6 breast plus i inch; from 9 to 30 is 34 inch less than 34 breast; 
draw a line from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 39 to 6 is 234 inches; apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, 
which is 17 inches, and shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

From 19 to 20 is 7 inches; from 20 to 21 is 134 inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 
to get point 33; from 19 to 33 is 34 inch more than W to 34; from 15 to 28 is the same as 
19 to 33 ; draw a line from 28 through 33. 

From 29 to 23 is Yi inch; shape the top of skirt from 19 through 23, taking out 34 inch 
between 16 and S; from S to 24 is 1)4 inches; from top of skirt to 37 is the same; draw a 
line from 24 to 37; from 24 to 37 is 1/3 the distance from S to 19; from 33 to 38 is the same 
as 24 to 37; draw a line from 28 to T,y \ finish the skirt rounding it Ya inch at 14 and adding 
about 34 inch rounding at the front edge. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line from 32 to I for the rever; from 32 to 37 is Ij4 inches; from I 
to II is 234 inches; from J to 26 is 234 inches; the length of the rever from I to 32 is 34 inch 
less than 25 to 24; shape the rever as indicated. 

THE COLLAR 

From 9 to 22 is 134 inches; draw a line from 22 up and down for the break of lapel; from 
22 to 42 is 34 inch more than A to T ; square up and down from 42 ; from 42 to 41 is the width 
of the collar plus 34 inch ; from 42 to 43 is 1 34 inches ; shape the collar as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



95 




DIAGRAM 44. 



96 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 45 
EVENING DRESS COAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth g]A inches Overshoulder i8^ inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 1^/2 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length 41 inches Waist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 9^4 inches ; to C is the natural waist length, 
17 inches ; to D is the fashionable waist length, 19 inches ; to E is the full length, 41 inches ; 
F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1/12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, D, 
and E. 

From B to H is half of full breast, 20 inches; H to S is ij4 inches; S to J is ^4 inch; 
K is half way between B and H ; from K to L is 35^ inches ; square down from L to locate 
point 4. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, which is 13^ inches, and square up. 

M is half way between B and L; from M to N is 154 inches; square up from N; this 
locates points P — O ; from O to 2 is J4 inch ; from P to Q is i inch. 

From D to W is J^ breast ; square down from W ; from A to R is j/^ breast plus ^ inch ; 
R to T is % inch ; draw a line from T to 2, and shape the back. 

From X to Y is 154 inches; square down from Y; point 19 is J4 inch below the waist line; 
from Q to Z is J^ inch ; point 3 is half way between Y and 4 ; point 42 is 54 inch abov-e the 
waist line ; shape the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 39 is J4 waist; square down from 39; this locates point 31 ; from 31 to 15 is 
1/6 breast; from 15 to 40 is Y^ inch; draw a line from 40 to 42. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 39; point 8 is half way between L and S; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus J4 inch from A to T and L to 9. which is i^V^ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure pins i inch from B to 35 and L to 10. which is igY% 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is }i, inch Ic^s than T to 2 ; from 
12 to 13 is iX inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 27 is 1/6 breast plus '4 inch; from 39 
to 5 is I inch ; shape the front edge from 27 through J and 5, this locates point 16. 

From 27 to 23 is 1/6 breast plus i inch; 9 to 30 is '4 inch less than ]4, breast; draw a line 
from 30 to 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 39 to 6 is 2 inches; apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to C, and 6 to 17, which 
is 20 inches net ; shape the side of forepart a.? indicated. 

Draw a straight line from 13 to 15; this locates point 41 ; cut out a small V at 41. 

THE SKIRT 

From 19 to 20 is 7 inches; 20 to 21 is i^A inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 to get 
33; from 19 to 33 is J4 inch more than W to 34; from 40 to 28 is the same as 19 to 33; draw a 
line from 28 to 33. 

From 29 to 23 is Y inch; shape the top of skirt from 19 through 23 and 41. reducing it 
I4 inch at 16; from 16 to 24 is i^ inches; from 41 to 37 is the same; draw a line from 24 to 
37; from 24 to 37 is 1/3 the distance from 16 to 19; from 33 to 38 is the same as 24 to 37: 
draw a line from 38 to 2,7 ; finish the skirt rounding it Y^. inch at 14, also rounding it '4 inch 
at the front edge. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straiglit line from IMo I ; from U to I is 44 inch less than 24 to 25 ; from U to 36 
is i-)4 inches; from J to 26 is 2'4 inches: I to o 11 is 2^ inches: shape the rever as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



97 




DIAGRAM 45 



98 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 46 
EVENING DRESS COAT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth lo inches Qvershoulder 19^ inches 

Natural waist length 1 7 J4 inches Blade 1414 inches 

Fashionable waist length 191/^' inches Breast 44 inches 

Full length 41 inches Waist 47 inches 

Strap 14 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, io34 inches; to C is the natural waist length, 
175^' inches ; to D is the fashionable waist length, ig}^ inches to E is the full length, 41 inches ; 
F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1/12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, D 
and E. 

From B to H is J/2 of full breast, 22 inches; H to S is i^ inches; S to J is >^ inch; K is 
half way between B and H; from K to L is 31^ inches; square down from L to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 145^ inches, and square up; M is half way between 
B and L; from M to N is ij4 inches; square up from N; this locates points P — O; from O to 
2 is >4 inch ; P to Q is i inch. 

From D to W is ys, breast; square down from W; from A to R is ^4 breast plus }i inch; 
R to T is 5^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 and shape the back. 

From 4 to 39 is 5^ waist; square down from 39; this locates point 31 ; from 31 to 15 is 
1/6 breast; from 15 to 40 is ys inch. 

From 39 to 6 is 2 inches; apply the waist measure from X to C and 6 to Y, which is 23I/2 
inches ; square down from Y ; point 19 is 34 inch below the waist line ; from Q to Z is J/^ inch ; 
point 3 is half way between Y and 4 ; point 42 is }i inch above the waist line ; shape the side 
body and the side of forepart as indicated ; draw a line from 40 to 29 ; point 7 is half way be- 
tween 4 and 39; point 8 is half way between L and S; draw a line from7 through 8 to get line9. 

Apply the strap measure plus -)4 inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 14J4 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 20^ 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is % inch less than T to 2 ; from 
12 to 13 is yi' inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 27 is 1-6 breast plus 34 inch; from 
6 to 5 is I inch; shape the front edge from 27 through J and 5, this locates point 16. 

From 27 to 25 is 1-6 breast plus i inch; from 9 to 30 is 34 inch less than % breast; draw 
a line from 30 to 25 and shape the gorge. 

Draw a straight line from 19 to 15; point 41 is where the two lines cross; cut out a small 
V at 41 and shape the bottom of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

From 19 to 20 is 7 inches; 20 to 21 is 13^2 inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 to get 
33; from 19 to 33 is % inch more than W to 34; from 40 to 28 is the same as 19 to 33; draw 
a line from 28 to 33. 

From 29 to 33 is 5/i inch; shape the top of skirt from 19 through 23 and 41, reducing it 
34 inch at 16; from 17 to 18 is the same as the front overlaps the side body from 42 to 29, 
which is 5^ inch; from 18 to 24 is i^ inches; 41 to 37 is the same; from 24 to 37 is 1/3 the 
distance from 16 to 19; 33 to 38 is the same as ^y to 24; draw a line from 38 to 37; finish 
the skirt, rounding it % inch at 14, also rounding it 34 inch at the front edge. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line from U to I, from U to I is % inch less than 25 to 24, from U to 36 
is l^ inches; J to 26 is 2j4 inches, I to 11 is 2% inches, shape the rever as indicated. 

This being a coat for a corpulent figure, the distance from 9 to 22 is ^ inch. Draw a 
line from 22 down for the break of the lapel. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



99 




DIAGRA]\I 46 



100 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 47 
EVENING DRESS COAT WITHOUT SEPARATE REVER OR SKIRT STRAP 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Natural waist length 16J/2 inches Blade 123^ inches 

Fashionable waist length 185/2 inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 40 inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, 9^4 inches ; to C is the natural waist length, 
16^ inches; to D is the fashionable waist lengh, 183/^ inches; to E is the full length, 40 inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C. 
D and E. 

From C to U is 3^ inch, or ]4, inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast ; 
draw a line from F to U and square down. 

From I to H is 3/2 of full breast, 18 inches; from H to J is i^ inches; K is half wa} 
between i and H ; from K to L is 33^2 inches ; square down from L to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure from i to L which is 123^2 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L ; from M to N is 1 34 inches ; square up from N ; this 
locates points P — O. 

From O to 2 is 34 inch ; from P to O is i inch ; from V to W is >^ breast ; square down 
from W. 

From A to R is Y^ breast plus ^ inch ; R to T is s-g inch ; draw a line from Tto2and shape 
the back. 

From X to Y is lY^ inches; square down from Y, point 19 is 34 inch below the waist line; 
from Q to Z is >^ inch ; point 3 is half way between Y and 4 ; point 29 is 34 inch above the 
waist line ; shape the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 39 is 34 waist; square down from 39; this locates point 31; from 31 to 15 is 
1-6 breast; draw a line from 15 to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 39; point 8 is half- way' between L and J; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus % inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 12% inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from i to 35 and L to 10, which is 18 inches 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from \2 to 13 is 5^ inch; shape the shouldei 
and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7—8; from 9 to 27 is 1-6 breast plus 34 inch; from 39 
to 5 is I inch ; draw a rounding line from 27 through J and 5 down ; from 27 to 25 is 1-6 breast 
plus I inch; from 9 to 30 is 34 inch less than Ys breast; draw a line from 30 to 25 and shape 
the gorge. 

From 39 to 6 is 2Y2 inches; apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, 
which is 16 inches net, and shape the side of forepart. 

From 16 to 24 is 134 inches; 18 to 37 is the same; draw a line from 37 through 24; from 
24 to 14 is 1Y2 inches; J to 26 is 234 inches; between 25 and I cut out >< inch V; from I to 
II is 234 inches; shape the front edge from n through 26 to 14. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 19 to 20; from 19 to 20 is 7 inches; 20 to 21 is 1Y2 inches; draw a line 
from 19 through 21 to get 33: from 19 to 33 is '4 inch more than W to 34; from 15 to 28 is 
the same as 19 to 33; draw a line from 28 to 33. 

From 16 to 18 is 1/3 the distance of from 16 to 19; from 33 to 38 is the same as 16 to 18; 
draw a line from 38 through 18; take a fish out of the forepart at 18; finish the skirt, rounding 
it slightly at the front edge and add Y4 inch rounding at 21 ; from 29 to 23 is 54 inch; shape 
the top of skirt from 19 through 23 to 18, 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



lOI 




DIAGRAM 47. 



I02 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 48 
EVENING DRESS COAT WITHOUT SEPERATE REVER OR SKIRT STRAP FOR 

STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9M inches Overshoulder 19 inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 14 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 42 inches 

Full length 40>4 inches Waist 42 inches 

Strap I3>^ inches 

Draw line A — E .and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus >-4 inch, 10 inches ; to C is the natural waist length, 
17 inches; to D is the fashionable waist, 19 inches, to E is the full length, 40>^ inches. 

F is half way between A and B; from F to G is Jl-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, 
C, D and E. 

From B to H is ><^ of full breast 21 inches; .'Hi to S is i^ inches; S to J is 34 inch; K is 
half way between B and H; from K to L is 33^ inches; square down from L to get point 4. 
Apply the blade measure from B to L, which is 14 inches, and square up. 
M is half way between B and L. From M to N is 1 3/:4 inches ; square up from N ; this 
locates points P — O ; from O to 2 is >4 inch ; from P to Q is i inch. 

From D to W is 3^ breast ; square down from W ; from A to R is J^^ breast plus ^ inch ; 
from R to T is ^-s inch ; draw a line from T to 2 and shape the back. 

From X to Y is 134 inches; square down from Y; point 19 is Y^ inch below the waist Hne ; 
from Q to Z is 34 inch; point 3 is half way between Y and 4; point 29 is y^ inch above the 
waist line; shape the side body. 

From 4 to 39 is J^ waist; square down from 39; this locates point 31; from 31 to 15 is 
1-6 breast; draw a line from 15 to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 39 ; point 8 is half way between L and S ; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to T and L to 9, which is 14J4 inches. 
Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 20 inches. 
Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is ^ inch less than T to 2, from 
12 to 13 is i/^ inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7-8; from 9 to 27 is 1-6 breast plus J4 inch; from 39 to 5 
is I inch; draw a line from 27 through J and 5 to get 16. 

From 27 to 25 is 1-6 breast plus i inch; from 9 to 30 is 34 inch less than Yg, breast; draw 
a line from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 16 to 24 is i 3^ inches; 18 to 37 is the same; draw a line from 37 through 24; from 
24 to 14 is 1Y2 inches. 

Between 25 and I cut out Y^ i"ch V; make the width of lapel from I to 11, 2Y4 inches, 
or to taste; from J to 26 is 2j/^ inches; shape the front edge from 11 through 26 to 14. 

From 39 to 6 is 2 inches ; apply the waist measure from 3 to Y,X to C and 6 to I7,which is 21 
inches net and shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

From 19 to 20 is 7 inches; from 20 to 21 is i>^ inches; draw a line from 19 through 21 
to get 33; from 19 to 33 is 34 inch more than W to 34; from 15 to 28 is the same as 19 to 
33 ; draw a line from 28 to 33. 

From 16 to 18 is 1-3 the distance of from 16 to 19; from 33 to 38 is the same as 16 to 
18; draw a line from 38 to 18; at point 18 cut out a small V; from 29 to 23 is 5^ inch; shape 
the top of the skirt from 19 through 23 to 18. 

Finish the skirt, rounding it }i inch at 21 and rounding it also slightly at the front edge. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



103 




DIAGRAM 48. 



I04 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 49 
SEMI-FITTING CHESTERFIELD OVERCOAT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 42 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap I2>^ inches Hip 39 inches 

Overshoulder 17H inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast, waist and hip measures, and ^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus yi inch, 9.5.3 inches; B to 12 is J4 inch; from A to C 
is ^ inch more than the waist length, 17^ inches; from C to D is 6 inches; A to E is 42 inches; 
F is half way between A and 12; from F to G is 1-12 of 41 breast; square out from G, F, B, 
12, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is % inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is J^ of full breast, 203^4 inches ; H to J is i->4 inches ; J to K is ^ inch ; L is 
half way between 28 and H ; from L to M is 3J4 inches ; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^ inch from 28 to M, which is 13^4 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M ; from O to P is i)^ inches; square up from P to locate 
point R ; from R to S is >4 inch. 

From P to V is I '4 inches ; P to Q is >4 inch ; square down from Q ; from A to T is >^ of 
41 breast plus ^4 inch ; T to U is ^-s i"ch ; draw a line from U to S ; from U to 7 is 14 inch ; shape 
the back as indicated. 

From N to W is >^ of 2,7 waist; square down from W to locate point Z; from Z to I is 1-6 
of 41 breast less '-< inch; point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between 
M and J ; draw a line from X through Y to get hne 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 7 and M to 25, which is 1314 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 1 14 inches from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 18% 

inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4; from 4 to 5 is >^ inch; shape the shoulder and 

armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y ; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 41 breast plus '4 inch ; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K. 

From 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 41 breast ; 25 to 23 is ji of 41 breast ; draw a line from 23 to 24 and 
shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 1% inches ; W to 9 is the same ; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From ID to 11 is 414 inches; apply the hip measure plus >4 inch from 21 to 13 and 11 to 14, 
which is 21 inches; from 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to get point 20; draw a line 
from 20 through 14 to get 16 and shape the side of forepart . 

From 20 to 16 is the same length as 20 to 15; shape the bottom of forepart and finish. 

Add an extra seam at the top of back as from A to U and add the same at 25 as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



^05 




DIAGRAM 49. 



io6 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 50 
SEMI-FITTING DOUBLE-BREASTED CHESTERFIELD 

This diagram is made the same as diagram 49 with the following changes : 
From 25 to 23 is }i inch less than Ys, breast; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus 3^ inch; from 6 
to 30 is 2,Va inches ; K to 8 and and W to 9 are the same ; from 27 to Z is 2 inches ; shape the 
front edge from 30 through 8, 9 and Z; from Z to I is J^ inch less than 1-6 breast; from 10 
back to II is 654 inches; finish the same as the other coat. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



107 




DIAGRAM 50. 



lo8 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 51 

CLOSE-FITTING CHESTERFIELD WITH SLIGHTLY FLARING SKIRT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9 inches Blade 12 J^ inches 

Waist length 16J/2 inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 42 inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches Hip 37 inches 

Overshoulder 17 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast, waist and hip measures, and % inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — ^E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch, 9^ inches; B to 12 is % inch; from A to C 
is % inch more than the waist length, 17^4 inches; from C to D is 6 inches; A to E is 42 inches; 
F is half way between A and 12. If a high shoulder seam is desired, G may be half way between 
A and F. Square out from G, F, B, 12, C, D and E. 

From C to ly is 34 inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is 3^ of full breast, I9>4 inches; H to J is 1^4 inches; J to K is % inch; L is 
half way between 28 and H ; from L to M is 314 inches ; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus % inch from 28 to M, which is 13^4 inches and square up; 
O is half way between 28 and M ; from O to P is 1 1/^ inches ; square up from P to get point R. 

From P to V is 134 inches; P to O is ^4 inch; square down from Q to get point 31 ; from 
31 to 15 add as much flare as desired. In this case it is 13^ inches. Draw a line from 19 to 15. 

From A to T is 3^ of 39 breast plus % inch ; T to U is S/^ inch ; draw a line from U through 
R ; from R to S is % inch ; U to 7 is >4 "ich ; shape the back as indicated. 

From N to W is >4 of 35 waist; square down from W to get point Z; from Z to I is >4 
inch less than 1-6 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 7 and M to 25, which is 13 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 134 indies from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 1834 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 throught 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is ^ inch less than 7 to S. from 4 
to 5 is J4 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y ; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 39 breast plus '4 hich ; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 39 breast; 25 to 23 is % of 39 breast; draw 
a line from 23 through 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is i}^ inches; W to 9 is the same; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From 10 to 11 is 4J4 inches; apply the hip measure plus an extra ^4 inch from 26 to 13 and 
II to 14, which is 2054 inches; from 14 to 26 is 2 inches; square up from 26 to get 19; draw a 
line from 19 through 14 to get 29; from 29 to 16 is the same as 31 to 15; shape the side of 
forepart. 

From 19 to 16 is the same length as 19 to 15; shape the bottom and finish; take out an 
underarm fish as indicated. 

The pocket is marked the same as explained in the sack coat. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

7> 



109 




DIAGRAM 51. 



no AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 52 
CHESTERFIFLD OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9>4 inches Blade 131^^ inches 

Waist length 17 J4 inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length 42 inches Waist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches Hip 42 inches 

Overshoulder i83/^ inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast, waist and hip measures, and ^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — ^E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus %. inch, 9% inches; B to 12 is ^ inch; A to C is ^ 
inch more than the waist length, which is 18^4 inches; C to D is 6 inches; from A to E is 42 
inches; F is half way between A and 12; from F to G is 1-12 of 43 breast; square out from G, 
F, B, 12, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is 3^ inch ; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is J/2 of full breast, 21 J/j inches ; H to J is 1% inches ; J to K is ^ inch ; L is 
half way between 28 and H ; from L to M is 3 ^ inches ; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus % inch from 28 to M, which is 14% inches and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M ; from O to P is i J4 inches ; square up from P ; this locates 
point R; from R to S is yi inch. 

From P to V is I ^ inches ; P to Q is J/^ inch ; square down from Q ; from A to T is J^ of 
43 breast plus % inch ; T to U is ^ inch ; draw a line from U to S ; from U to 7 is J4 inch ; shape 
the back as indicated. 

From N to W is 1/2 of 43 waist ; square down from W to locate point Z ; from Z to I is J4 
inch less than 1-6 of 43 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 7 and M to 25, which is 14 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 1% inches from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 19^^ 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is ^ inch less than 7 to S ; from 4 to 5 
is yi inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 43 breast plus }i inch; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 43 breast; 25 to 23 is ^ breast; draw a line 
from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is ij4 inches; W to 9 is the same; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From 10 to 11 is 4% inches. 

As already explained in the description of the stout sack coat, the proportionate hip measure 
should be 5 inches larger than the waist. In this case, it is but 2 inches larger. Therefore, apply 
the hip measure as follows : 

From 21 to 13 and from 11 to 27 is the actual hip measure, which is 221^ inches ; from 27 to 
14 is lyi inches or the difference between 22>^ and 24; from 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up 
from 21 to get 20; draw a line from 20 through 14 to get 16; from 20 to 16 is the same length 
as 20 to 15; shape the side and bottom of forepart as indicated. 

Cut in the pocket the same as in the stout sack coat, and take out between i and 29 the same 
amount as added from 27 to 14. 

If you wish the collar to set up high and close at the neck, add an extra seam the same as 
broken line from A to U and also at 25. The collar is made as folows : 

From 25 to 22 is i^ inches; draw a line for the lapel crease through 22 to 18; from 22 to 
18 is j4 inch more than A to 7 ; square up and down from 18; from 18 to 19 is 1^4 inches; 18 to 
26 is the width of the collar plus l4 inch ; shape the collar as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



Ill 




DIAGRAM 52. 



112 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 53 
CHESTERFIELD OVERCOAT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth lo inches Blade 143^^ inches 

Waist length 17^ inches Breast 44 inches 

Full length 43 inches Waist 47 inches 

Strap 14 inches Hip 49 inches 

Overshoulder 19^4 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast, waist and hip measures, and J4 '"ch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — ^E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch, 1034 inches; B to 12 is ^ inch; A to C is % 
inch more than the waist length, which is 1834 inches; C to D is 6 inches; A to E is 43 inches; F 
is half way between A and 12; from F to G is 1-12 of 47 breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, C, 
D and E. 

From C to 17 is 34 inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is 34 of full breast; 2334 inches, H to J is i-)4 inches; J to K is ^ inch; 
square up from K ; L is half way between 28 and H ; from L to M is 334 inches ; square down 
from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus % inch from 28 to M, which is 153'^ inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M ; from O to P is 134 inches ; square up from P ; this locates 
point R ; from R to S is 3^ inch. 

From P to V is 1 34 inches ; P to Q is 34 inch ; square down from Q. 

From A to T is 3^ of 47 breast plus J4 inch ; T to U is ^ inch ; draw a line from U to S ; 
from U to 7 is V4 inch ; shape the back as indicated. 

From N to W is 1/2 of 50 waist ; square down from W to get point Z ; from Z to I is 34 inch 
less than 1-6 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J ; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 7 and M to 25. which is 15 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i34 inches from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 21 inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is Jg inch less tlian 7 to S ; from 4 to 
5 is 34 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 47 breast plus H inch; square 
forward from Y by line X — Y ; this locates point 22 ; draw a rounding line from 6 to 22 ; from 6 
to 24 is 1-6 of 47 breast ; 25 to 2^, is 34 breast ; draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From 22 to 8 is i^4 inches ; W to 9 is the same ; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From 10 to 11 is 434 inches; from 21 to 13 and 11 to 27 is the hip measure which is 26 
inches. 

As already explained in the last diagram, the hip measure should be five inches larger than 
the waist, therefore add from 27 to 14, 134 inches. 

From 14 to 26 is 2 inches; square up from 26 to get 19; draw a line from 19 through 14 to 
■get 16; from 19 to 16 is the same length as 19 to 15 ; shape the side and bottom of forepart. 

Take out between i and 29 the surplus that is added from 27 to 14, and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



113 




DIAGRAM 53. 



114 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 64 
SINGLE-BREASTED FULL-BACK OVERCOAT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows: 

Scye depth 9f^ inches Overshoulder 175^' inches 

Waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Full length 44 inches Breast 38 inches 

Strap 123/ inches Waist 34 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures, and ^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus ^ inch, gj^ inches; B to 12 is % inch; from A to 17 is 
J4 inch more than the waist length ; to E is full length, 44 inches ; F is half way between A and 
12; from F to G is ^V of 4i breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, 17 and E. 

From B to H is ^ of full breast, 20I/2 inches; H to J is ij4 inches; J to K is % inch; L is 
half way between B and H; from L to M is 3^4 inches; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^ inch from B to M, which is i3-)4 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between B and M ; from O to P is i>4 inches; square up from P ; this locates 
point R ; from R to S is 1/2 inch. 

On all straight back coats where the back is not hollowed at the waist, go in from A to i, 
J4 inch and draw a line from i to F; from i to T is >^ of 41 breast plus % inch ; from T to U 
is Yi inch; draw a line from U to S ; point 2y is half way between P and L; square down from 
27; from U to 7 is 34 inch; shape the back as indicated. 

From N to W is 34 of ^y waist; square down from W to locate point Z; from Z to 1 is J^ 
inch less than Yf, breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from i to 7 and M to 25, which is 133/ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 134 inches from B to 2 and M to 3, which is 18?^ 
inches. ; \ t\ |1 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4; from 25 to 4 is Ys inch less than 7 to S ; from 4 to 
5 is 34 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 41 breast plus 34 inch; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 breast; 25 to 23 is 34 breast; draw a line from 
23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is lY inches; W to 9 is the same; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From 27 to 21 is 12 inches; square out from 21 : 21 to 14 is 3>4 inches; draw a line from 
27 through 14 to get 16; from 27 to 16 is the same length as 27 to 15 ; shape the bottom of fore- 
part and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



115 




DIAGRAM 54. 



Ii6 ■ AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 55 
FULL BOX OVERCOAT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 18^ inches 

Waist length 17^/2 inches Blade I3>4 inches 

Full length 45 inches Breast 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches Waist 36 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures, and ^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 54 inch, 9% inches ; B to 12 is ^ inch; from A to 17 is 
^ inch more than the waist length, which is 18^:4 inches; to E is full length, 45 inches; F is 
half way between A and 12; from F to G is 1-12 of 43 breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, 17 
and E. 

From B to H is 3^ of full breast, 21I/2 inches ; H to J is 1% inches; J to K is % inch; L is 
half way between B and H; from L to M is 3^^ inches; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^ inch from B to M, which is I4>4 inches and square up; 
O is half way between B and M ; from O to P is i^^ inches ; square up from P, this locates point 
R; from R to S is Yz inch. 

As explained in the last diagram, from A to i is >^ inch ; draw a line from i to F ; from i 
to T is J^ of 43 breast plus % inch ; T to U is y& inch ; draw a line from U to S ; from U to 7 
is Yi inch. 

From N to W is Y^ o^ 39 waist ; square down from W to locate point Z ; from Z to I is J^ 
inch less than 1-6 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from i to 7 and M to 25, which is 14 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus ij4 inches from B to 2 and M to 3, v.diich is 195-^ 
inches. Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is % inch less than 7 to S ; from 
4 to 5 is Y2 inch ; shape the back, shoulder and armscye. 

Point 27 is where the armscye crosses the breast line ; square down from 27 ; from 27 to 26 
is 12 inches ; from 26 to 2! is Y2 inch ; from 26 to 14 is 3I/2 inches ; draw a line from 27 through 21 
to get 15 and from 27 through 14 to get 16; from 27 to 16 is the same length as 27 to 15 ; shape 
the bottom of forepart from 16 to L 

Square forward from 25 by line X— Y : from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 43 breast plus Y inch; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 43 breast ; 25 to 23 is Y?. breast ; draw a line 
from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 1^4 inches; W to 9 is the same; shape the front edge througli 8, 9 and Z. 

From 27 to broken line L add I'.t inches; from 15 to 22 add the same; reshape the back as 
per broken line. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



117 



"TjH^^. 




DIAGRAM 55. 



Il8 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 56 
DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT 

This diagram is made the same as diagram 55, except the additions to the front, wliich are 
made as follows: 

From 25 to 23 is }i inch less than Ys breast ; from 6 to 24 is >^ breast plus J^ inch ; from 6 
to 30 is 4 inches ; K to 8 and W to 9 are the same ; from 27 to Z is two inches ; shape the 
front edge from 30 through 8, 9 and Z. 

From Z to I is 3^ inch less than % breast; finish as represented. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



119 




DIAGRAM 56. 



I20 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 57 
FULL BOX OVERCOATIFOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9% inches Overshoulder 19 inches 

Waist length I7J5/^ inches Blade 14 inches 

Full length 46 inches Breast 42 inches 

Strap I3>4 inches Waist 42 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and % inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, 10 inches; B to 12 is ^ inch; from A to 17 is 
^ inch more than the waist length, 18^ inches ; A to E is full length, 46 inches ; F is half way 
between A and 12; from F to G is 1-12 of 45 breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, 17 and E. 

From B to H is i/^ of full-breast, 22^/2 inches; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is % inch; L is 
half way between B and H ; from L to M is 3>^ inches; square down from M to locate N. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^ inch from B to M which is 14% inches and square up. 

O is half way between B and M; from O to P is i^ inches; square up from P; this locates 
point R ; from R to S is J/^ inch. 

From A to I is 34 inch ; draw a line from i to F ; from i to T is J/^ of 45 breast plus ^ 
inch ; T to U is ^ inch ; draw a line from U to S ; from U to 7 is 34 inch. 

From N to W is ^ of 45 waist; square down from W to locate point Z; from Z to I is 1-6 
breast less J4 inch. 

Point X is half way between N and W ; point Y is half way between M and J ; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from i to 7 and M to 25 which is I4>4 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus lJ4 inches from B to 2 and M to 3, which is 2o5-<; 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4; from 25 to 4 is ^4 inch less than 7 to S ; from 4 to 
5 is J4 inch; shape the back, shoulder and armscye. 

Point 27 is where the armscye crosses the breast line; square down from 27; from 27 to 26 
is 12 inches; square forth and back from 26; from 26 to 21 is )4 inch; from 26 to 14 is 3j4 
inches; draw lines from 27 through 21 to gee 15, and from 27 through 14 to get point 30; from 
27 to L is 134 inches; 15 to 22 is the same; reshape the back as per broken line. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 45 breast plus 34 inch; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 45 breast; from 25 to 23 is ji breast; draw 
a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge ; from K to 8 is 1% inches; W to 9 is the same ; shape 
the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

In a box overcoat it is not absolutely necessary to take out any surplus between 13 and 18, 
but if so desired, you may take out from 13 to 18, ij^ or two inches, but add the same amount 
from 30 to 16; from 27 to 16 is the same length, as 27 to 15; shape the bottom of forepart 
and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



121 




DIAGRAM 57. 



122 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 58 
SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Natural waist length 161/I inches Blade I2j4 inches 

Fashionable waist length i8>^ inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 47 inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and 34 inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus }'4 inch, 91^4 inches ; B to 32 is ^ inch ; from A to C is % 
inch more than the natural waist length, which is 1734 inches; to D is 19J4 inches; to E is 47 
inches ; F is half way between A and 32 ; from F to G is yV of 39 breast ; square out from G, 
F, B, 32, C, D and E. 

From C to U is >4 inch, or ys inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast; 
draw a line from F to U and square down. 

From I to H is J4 of full breast, 191/^ inches; H to S is 1% inches; S to J is ^ inch; K is 
half way between i and H ; from K to L is ^yi inches ; square down from L to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^ inch from i to L, which is 1314 inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L; from M to N is i^ inches; square up from N; this lo- 
cates points P— O; from O to 2 is ^ inch; P to Q is iJ4 inches. 

From V to W is 3/^ of 39 breast; square down from W; from A to R is >^ of 39 breast 
plus ^ inch ; R to T is % inch ; draw a line from T to 2 ; from T to I is 14 inch ; shape the back 
as indicated. 

From X to Y is i^ inches; square down from Y; point 19 is 34 inch below the waist line; 
from Q to Z is 34 inch; point 3 is half way between Y and 4; point 29 is 34 inch above the 
waist line; shape the side body. 

From 4 to 5 is 3^ of 35 waist; square down from 5 ; this locates point 31 ; from 31 to 16 is 
yi of 39 breast. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5; point 8 is half way between L and S; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to I and L to 9, which is 13 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 134 inches from i to 35 and L to 10, which is 1834 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is ^ inch less than i to 2 ; 12 to 13 
is 34 inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7-8 ; from 9 to 27 is 3^6 of 39 breast plus 34 inch ; draw a 
rounding line from 27 to J; from 27 to 25 is 34 of 39 breast; 9 to 30 is ys breast; draw a line 
from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From J to 26 is i^ inches; 5 to 14 is the same; shape the front edge through 26 and 14 
to 15. 

From 5 to 6 is 23^ inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, whch is 17^^ inches net, and 
shape the side of forepart. 

Draw a straight line from 19 through 16; this locates point 24; shape the bottom of forepart 
from 29 into 16. 

THE SKIRT 

From 19 to 18 is i inch; draw a line from 24 to 18 and square down to 20; from 18 to 20 
is 9 inches ; 20 to 21 is 134 inches ; draw a line from 18 through 21 to get 33 ; from 18 to 33 is 34 
inch more than W to 34; from 16 to 28 is the same as 18 to 33; square down from 15 by the 
waist line; shape the bottom of skirt and finish, roundnig the skirt ^ inch at 21. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



123 




DIAGRAM 58. 



J24 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 59 

SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 19 inches 

Natural waist length 17^^ inches Blade 14 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19^^ inches Breast 42 inches 

Full length 48 inches Waist 42 inches 

Strap 12,1/2 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and }i inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus Y^ inch, which is 10 inches ; from B to 32 is % inch ; 
from A to C is % inch more than the natural waist length; to D is 20>4 inches; to E is 48 
inches; F is half way between A and 32; from F to G is 1-12 of 45 breast; square out from G, 
F, B, 32, C, D and E. 

From B to H is >1 of full breast, 22 1<^ inches; H to S is i^ inches; S to J is % inch; K is 
half way between B and H; from K to L is 3^ inches; square down from L to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure plus % inch from B to L, which is 14% inches and square up. 

M is half way between B and L; from M to N is i^ inches; square up from N; this locates 
points P — O ; from O to 2 is Yz inch ; P to Q is i Ya inches. 

From D to W is Yi of 45 breast ; square down from W ; from A to R is >^ of 45 breast plus 
y^ inch ; from R to T is ^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 ; from T to I is 34 inch ; shape the back 
as indicated. 

From X to Y is 1Y4 inches; square down from Y; point 19 is % inch below the waist line; 
from Q to Z is 14 inch ; point 3 is half way between Y and 4 ; point 29 is 34 inch above the waist 
line; shape the side body. 

From 4 to 5 is 34 of 45 waist; square down from 5 ; this locates point 31 ; from 31 to 16 is 
1-6 of 45 breast; 16 to 11 is ^ inch; draw a line from 11 to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and S ; draw a line from 
7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to I and L to 9, which is 1434 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i34 inches from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 203.4 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is y% inch less than I to 2; 12 to 13 
is 34 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8 ; from 9 to 27 is 1-6 of 45 breast plus '4 inch ; draw a 
line from 27 to J ; from 27 to 25 is 1-6 of breast; 9 to 30 is 34 breast; draw a line from 30 
through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From J to 26 is I ^ inches ; 5 to 14 is the same ; shape the front edge through 26 and 14 to 15. 

From 5 to 6 is 2 inches; apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to Z, and 6 to 17, which 
is 2234 inches net, and shape the side of forepart. 

Draw a straight line from 19 to 16; this locates point 36; point 23 is where the two lines 
cross ; cut out a small V at 23 and shape the bottom of forepart. 

This being a stout man's coat, the skirt does not need as much flare as in the normal coat, 
therefore the distance from 19 to 18 is y inch ; draw a line from 36 to 18 and square down to 20; 
from 18 to 20 is 9 inches ; 20 to 21 is 134 inches ; draw a line from 18 through 21 to get 33 ; from 
18 to 2)T, is 34 inch more than W to 34; from 16 to 28 is the same as 18 to 33; square down from 
15 by the waist line; shape the bottom of skirt, and finish, rounding it % inch at 21. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



125 




DIAGRAM 59. 



126 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 60 
PADDOCK OVERCOAT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows: 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder ijjis inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 47 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap 1 2 J/2 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and ^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus I4 inch, 9^ inches ; B to 32 is % inch ; A to C is 
^ inch more than the natural waist length, which is ly^i inches; D is 19% inches; E is full 
length, 47 inches ; F is half way between A and 32 ; from F to G is yV of 41 breast ; square out 
from G, F, B, 32, C, D and E. 

From C to U is 3^ inch or ]/% inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast; 
draw a line from F to U and square down. 

From 36 to H is 3/2 of full breast, 20)4 inches; H to S is 1% inches; S to J is ^ inch; K 
is half way between 36 and H; from K to L is 3I/2 inches; square down from L to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure plus % inch from 36 to L. which is 1324 inches and square up. 

M is half way between 36 and L; from M to N is ij^ inches; square up from N; this lo- 
cates points P — O; from O to 2 is J4 inch; P to O is Ij4 inches. 

From V to W is J4 of 41 breast; square down from W; from A to R is ]% of 41 breast plus 
Ya inch ; R to T is '^i inch ; draw a line from T to 2 ; from T to I is 4 indi : shape the back as 
indicated. 

From X to Y is V/j, inches; square down from Y; point 19 is '4 inch below the waist line; 
Q to Z is >4 inch; point 3 is half way between Y and 4; shape the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 5 is )i of 37 waist; square down from 5 to locate point 31 ; from 31 to 16 is J^ 
of 41 breast. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5: jxiint 8 is half way between L and S; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line g. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to I and L to g, which is 13 '4 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i^ inches from 36 to 35 and L to 10, which is iSj^ 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is Y?, inch less than i to 2; 12 to 
13 is J-2 inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from g by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 27 is ]/(, of 41 breast plus VJ inch; draw a 
rounding line from 27 to J ; from 27 to 25 is Yc of 41 breast; 9 to 30 is >i breast; draw a line 
from 30 through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From J to 26 is ij4 inches; 5 to 14 is the same; shape the front edge through 26 and 14 
to 15. " 

From 5 to 6 is 2Y2 inches; apply the waist measure from 3 to Y, X to U and 6 to 17, which 
is 181^ inches net, and shape the side of forepart. 

Draw a straight line from 16 through 29 to get point 18 and square down from 18; from 
18 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 is i 'X inches; draw a line from 18 through 21 to get 33; from 18 
to 33 is Y\ inch more than W to 34; from 16 to 28 is Y^ 'nch less than 18 to 33; square down 
from 15 by the waist line; shape the bottom and finish, rounding the skirt -)4 inch at 21. 

The waist seam is cut as from ig through 29 to 24 ; from 24 up there is a fish taken out and 
the front is left without a seam. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



127 




DIAGRAM 60. 



128 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 61 
FRENCH OVERCOAT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^2 inches Blade 1354 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 39 inches 

Full length 45 inches Waist 35 inches 

Strap 12% inches Hip 40 inches 

Overshoulder 18 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast, waist and hip measures, and ^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus }\ inch, 9% inches ; from B to 12 is ^ inch ; A to C 
is y^ inch more than the waist length, which is 17^ inches; from C to 36 is 2 inches; C to D 
is 6 inches: A to E is full length, 45 inches; F is halfway between A and 12; from F to G is 
1-12 of 42 breast; square out from G. F, B, 12, C, 36, D and E. 

From C to 17 is % inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is I/2 of full breast, 21 inches; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is % inch; L is 
half way between 28 and FI ; from L to M is 3j4 inches ; square down from M to get N . 

Apply the blade measure plus % inch from 28 to M, which is 14 inches, and square up. 

From 28 to P is 3^ of tlie blade measure plus i^^ inches, which is 8^^ inches; square up 
from P; this locates point R; from R to S is JX inch; from P to V is J^ breast; 17 to 19 is 
J4 breast plus i inch; square down from 19; this locates point 21; from 21 to 22 is ^4, inch; 
draw a line from 19 through 22 to get point 15. 

From A to T is 5^ of 42 breast plus ^ inch ; T to U is % inch ; shape the back as 
indicated. 

The broken line added to the back and foreparts is the extra cloth that is added for the side 
pleat. 

From N to W is JX of 38 waist; square down from W to locate point Z; from Z to I is J^ 
inch less than 1-6 of 42 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W ; point Y is half way between M and J ; draw a line 
from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to U and N to 25, which is 13 Yj, inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 1^4 inches from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 1934 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is Yz inch less than U to S ; from 
4 to 5 is J/^ inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y ; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 42 breast plus % inch ; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 42 breast; 25 to 23 is Y^ breast; draw a 
line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is \Ya. inches; W to 9 is the same; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From 10 to 11 is 4,'4 inches; apply the hip measure from 21 to 13 and 11 to 14, which is 
21Y2 inches. 

From 14 to 22 is 2 inches; square up from 22 to get point 26; from 14 to t,2> 's Y» inch; 
draw a line from 26 through 33 to get 16; from 26 to 16 is the .same length as 19 to 15; shape 
the bottom of forepart as indicated. 

From W to 34 is 2j/ inches; apply the waist mieasure from 19 to 17 and 34 to 26 and take 
out the balance in an underarm fish as between 20 and 18; point Q is about half way between 
M and P. Finish as represented. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



129 




DIAGRAM 61, 



130 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 62 
THE ORBY OVERCOAT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Natural waist length i6><^ inches Blade I2>^ inches 

Fashionable waist length 18^ inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 47 inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and % inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 9^ inches; B to 12 is ^ inch; from A to C 
is 34 inch more than the natural waist length, which is 1734 inches; to D is I9'4 inches; to E 
is full length, 47 inches; F is half way between A and 12; G is half way between A and F; 
square out from G, F, B, 12, C, D and E. 

From B to 28 is 54 inch; C to 17 is i>4 inches; draw a straight line from 17 to E. 

From E to 22 is ^ inch; point 13 is ^ inch from the line drawn down from 17; draw a 
line from 13 to 22; shape the centre seam from F through 28 and 17 as indicated; from 28 to 
H is ^ of full breast, igyi inches ; H to J is 1% inches ; J to K is ^ inch ; L is half way between 
28 and H ; from L to M is 3 inches square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus }i inch from 28 to M, which is 12^ inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M; from O to P is 1% inches; square up from P to locate 
point R. 

From A to T is i^ of 39 breast plus ^ inch ; T to U is ^ inch ; draw a line from U through 
R ; from R to S is ^ inch ; U to 7 is 34 inch. 

From N to W is J4 of 35 waist; square down from W; this locates point 10; from 10 to 

19 is >^ of 39 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W ; point Y is half way between M and J ; draw a line 
from X through Y to get 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 7 and M to 25, which is 13 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 1*4 inches from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 18 J4 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4; from 25 to 4 is ^ inch less than 7 to S ; from 4 
to 5 is 34 inch ; shape the back, shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 3^ of 39 breast plus 74 inch; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K; from 6 to 24 is 3^of 39 breast; 25 to 23 is % breast; draw a line 
from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 2 inches; W to 9 is the same; from 19 to I is i^ inches; shape the front 
edge through 8 and 9 to I ; square down from I by the waist line. 

Square down from L ; this locates points 1 1 — 29 ; from 1 1 to 18 is ^ inch. From W to 34 is 
234 inches; apply the hip measure from 18 to 17 and 34 to 20, which is lyYj inches net. 

From II to 21 is 9 inches; 21 to 14 is 134 inches; shape the side of forepart from L through 

20 to get 26; draw a line from 26 through 14 to get 36; from 36 to 16 is 2 inches; draw a line 
from 26 to 16; draw a line from 19 to 26; fron: 26 to V is 34 inch ; cut out a.V between V and 
26 and a fish from point 33 as indicated. 

From 29 to 15 is 2 inches; shape the side of back from L through 18 and V down to 15; 
from 20 to 26 and V to 16 is 34 inch more than from 18 to 15; shape the bottom of forepart 
and finish as represented. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



131 



tJJ 




DIAGRAM 62. 



1^2 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 63 
ORBY OVERCOAT FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder i8j^ inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13J/2 inches 

Fashionable waist length ig inches Breast 40 inches 

Pull length 47 inches Waist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and J4 inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T ; from A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 9^ 
inches; from B to 12 is ^ inch; from A to C is J4 inch more than the waist length, which is 
ly^/i inches; to D is 19^ inches; to E is 47 inches; F is half way between A and 12; from 
F to G is jV of 43 breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, C, D and E. 

From B to 28 is 54 inch; C to 17 is i inch; draw a line from 17 to E; from E to 22 is 
5^2 inch; point 13 is J/ inch from the line drawn down from 17; draw a line from 13 to 22; 
shape the centre back seam from F through 28 and 17 as indicated. 

From 28 to H is ^ of full breast, 21 J^ inches; H to J is 1% inches; J to K is ^ inch; 
L, is half way between 28 and H ; from L to M is 3 inches ; square down from M to get point N. 

Apply the blade measure plus % inch from 28 to M, which is 13^4 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M; from O to P is i^4 inches; square up from P to locate 
point R ; from R to S is 34 inch. 

From A to T is 3^ of 43 breast plus ^4 inch ; T to U is ^ inch ; draw a line from U to 
S ; from U to 7 is 34 incli. 

From N to W is 34 of 43 waist; square down from W to locate point 10; from 10 to 19 
is Ye of 43 breast ; point X is half way between N and W ; point Y is half way between M 
and J ; draw a line from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 7 and M to 25, which is 14 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i'4 inches from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 19^ 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is 34 inch less than 7 to S ; from 4 
to 5 is 34 inch ; shape the back, shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y ; fron; 25 to 6 is 34 of 43 breast plus 34 inch ; draw 
a line from 6 to K; from 6 to 24 is Yf, of 43 breast; 25 to 23 is Yi breast; draw a line from 
23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 2 inches; W to 9 is the same; 19 to I is ij4 inches; shape the front edge 
through 8 and 9 to I ; square down from I by the waist line. 

Square down from point L to locate points 11 — 29; from 11 to 18 is Y^ inch; W to 34 
is 2 inches. 

Apply the waist measure from 18 to 17 and 34 to 20, which is 2154 inches net. 

Shape the side of forepart from L through 20; this locates point 26; draw a line from 
19 to 26; from 26 to V is 34 inch ; shape the top of .skirt as from V to 33. 

Point 33 is 234 inches in front of the line M — 'N ; cut out a V at 33 as indicated. 

From II to 21 is 9 inches; 21 to 14 is 134 inches; draw a line from V through 14 to 
get 36; from 36 to 16 is 2 inches ; draw a line from V to 16. 

From 29 to 15 is 2 inches; shape the side of backpart from L through 18 and V down to 15. 

From 20 to 26 and V to 16 is 34 inch more than from 18 to 15; from 19 to Z is 34 inch 
kss than V to 16; shape the bottom of forepart and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



m 




DIAGRAM 63. 



134 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 64 
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT WITH A FULL FLARING SKIRT 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows: 

Scye depth 9J^ inches Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Natural waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Fashionable waist length 19 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 47 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap 12^ inches 

Add three inches to the breast and waist measures and Y^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 9^ inches; B to 32 is ^ inch; from A to C 
is J4 inch more than the waist length, 17^ inches; to D is 19% inches; to E is full length, 47 
inches; F is half way between A and 32; from F to G is ts of 4i breast; square out from G, 
F, B, 32, C, D and E. 

From C to U is ^ inch or ]/% inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast; draw 
a line from F to U and square down. 

From I to H is 3^ of full breast, 20j4 inches; H to S is 1% inches; S to J is % inch; K is 
half way between i and H; from K to L is 3J/2 inches; square down from L to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^4 i"ch from i to L, which is 13^ inches, and square up. 

M is half way between i and L; from M to N is i^/^ inches; square up from N; this lo- 
cates points P — O; from O to 2 is J/2 inch; P to Q is Ij4 inches. 

From V to W is J^ of 41 breast; square down from W; from A to R is J^ of 41 breast plus 
% inch ; R to T is ^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 ; T to 42 is l^ inch ; shape the back as indi- 
cated. 

From X to Y is i.kj inches; square down from Y; point 19 is J4 inch below the waist line; 
from Q to Z is lA inch; point 17 is half way between Y and 4; point 29 is 34 inch above the 
waist line ; shape the side body. 

From 4 to 5 is 3<2 of 37 waist; square down from 5 to get 31 ; from 31 to 15 is yi breast. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and S ; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 42 and L to 9, which is 133^ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i34 inches from i to 35 and L to 10, which is i8>^ 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is y% inch less than 42 to 2; from 
12 to 13 is 3<2 inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 27 is ]4, of 41 breast plus 34 inch; shape 
the front edge from 27 through J and 5 to 16. 

From 27 to 25 is ]4, of 41 breast plus V2 inch; 9 to 30 is ]4, breast; draw a line from 30 
through 25 and shape the gorge. 

THE REVER 

Draw a straight line from 15 through 5 to get point I; sweep from 15 forward to 24 and 
backward, pivoting at I; from 15 to 24 is 2^ inches; from i to 11 is 234 inches; shape the 
width of the rever to taste or style. 

From 5 to 6 is 234 inches; apply the waist measure from 17 to Y, X to U, and 6 to 3, which 
is 183^ inches net, and shape the side and bottom of forepart. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 19 to get point 36; from 19 to 18 is i inch; draw a line 
from 36 to 18 and square down to 20; from 18 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 is i>^ inches; draw 
a line from 18 through 21 to get 33; from 18 to 33 is }i inch more than W to 34; 15 to 28 
is the same as 18 to 33; square down from 24 by the waist line; shape the bottom of ikirt 
and finish, rounding it Ya inch at 14. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

JO 



135 




DIAGRAM 64. 



136 AMERICAN GAR MENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 65 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT WITH A FULL FLARING SKIRT FOR A 

STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder i8^ inches 

Natural waist length I7>4 inches Blade 13J/2 inches 

Fashionable waist length I9>4 inches Breast 40 inches 

Full length 47 inches Waist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and }i inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, 9% inches ; from B to 32 is ^ inch ; from A 
to U is J4 inch more than the natural waist length, 18 inches ; to V is 20 inches; from A to E 
is 47 inches; F is half way between A and 32; from F to G is 1-12 of 43 breast; square out 
from G, F. B, 32, U, V and E. 

From B to H is >4 of full breast, 2134 inches; from H to S is i^ inches; S to J is % inch; 
square up from J ; K is half way between B and H; from K to L is 35^2 inches; square down 
from L to get point 4. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^ inch from B to L, which is 14^ inches, and square up. 

M is half way between B and L; from M to N is i)^ inches; square up from N; this 
locates points P — O; from O to 2 is 3^ inch; P to Q is i^ inches. 

From V to W is J/^ of 43 breast ; square down from W ; from A to R is y% of 43 breast 
plus ^ inch ; R to T is 5/8 inch ; draw a line from T to 2 ; from T to 42 is ''4 inch ; shape the 
back as indicated. 

From X to Y is 1]/^ inches; square down from Y; point 19 is J4 inch below the waist 
line; from O to Z is 3^ inch; point 17 is half way between Y and 4; point 29 is ^4 'nch 
above the waist line; shape the side body as indicated. 

From 4 to 5 is Yz of 43 waist; square down from 5 to get point 31 ; from 31 to 16 is 1-6 
of 43 breast ; from 16 to 40 is js inch ; draw a line from 40 to 29. 

Point 7 is half way between 4 and 5 ; point 8 is half way between L and S; draw a line 
from 7 through 8 to get 9. j. j { \ 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 42 and L to 9, which is 14 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 1^4 inches from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 19 j^ 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is % inch less than 42 to 2 ; 12 to 
13 is Yz inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8 ; from 9 to 27 is Yb of 43 breast plus Y^ inch ; place 
the square to line 7 — 8 and square forward to get point 41 ; shape the front edge from 27 
through 41 and 5 to 16. 

From 27 to 25 is 1-6 of 43 breast plus Y^ mch ; 9 to 30 is Y breast ; draw a line from 30 
through 25 and shape the gorge. 

From 5 to 6 is 2 inches ; apply the waist measure from 17 to Y, X to U and 6 to 3, which 
is 21VS inches net, and shape the side of forepart. 

THE SKIRT AND REVER 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 19 to locate point 36; from 19 to 18 is i inch ; draw a line 
from 36 to 18 and square down to 20; from 18 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 is 1Y2 inches; draw 
a line from 18 through 21 to get 33. 

Point 23 is where the two lines cross ; cut out a small V at 23 ; draw a straight line for 
the rever as from 16 to I ; from 16 to I is the same length as 16 to 25; from 16 to 18 is 2^ 
inches; sweep from 18 to 24, pivoting at I ; from 16 to 24 is 2j4 inches, or to taste; I to 11 is 
zyi inches; shape the rever to taste; square down from 15 by the waist line; from 18 to 33 is 
Y inch more than W to 34; 16 to 28 is the same as 18 to 33; shape the bottom of skirt and 
finish rounding it ^ inch at 14; from 28 to 15 is the same length as 28 to 18; shape the top 
of skirt as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



iZ7 



iS,T 




DIAGRAM 65. 



1^8 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 66 
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth lo inches Qvershoulder 19% inches 

Natural waist length I7>^ inches Blade 14^ inches 

Fashionable waist length 19J4 inches Breast 44 inches 

Full length 48 inches Waist 47 inches 

Strap 14 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and ^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw a line A — E and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus >4 inch, io>4 inches; B to 32 is % inch; from A to 
C is % inch more than the natural waist length, 18 inches; to D is 20 inches, to E is 48 inches; 
F is half way between A and 32; from F to G is 1-12 of 47 breast; square out from G, F, B, 
32, C, D and E. 

From B to H is i/^ of full breast, 23^ inches; H to S is i>;4 inches; S to J is J4 inch, 
square up from J; K is half way between B and H; from K to L is 33/2 inches; square down 
from L to get 4. 

Apply the blade measure plus % inch from B to L, which is 1554 inches and square up; 
M is half way between B and L; from M to N is 1^ inches; square up from N ; this locates 
points P — O; from O to 2 is J^ inch; P to Q is ij4 inches. 

From D to W is Ys, of 47 breast; square down from W; from A to R is Y^ of 47 breast 
plus ^ inch ; R to T is ^^ inch ; draw a line from T to 2 ; from T to 42 is Ya inch ; shape the 
back. 

From 4 to 5 is 3^ of 50 waist ; square down from 5 to locate point 31; from 31 to 11 is 
1-6 of 47 breast ; 11 to 40 is ^ inch. 

From s to 6 is 2 inches; apply the waist measure from X to C and 6 to Y, which is 25 
inches net; square down from Y; point 19 is 34 inch below the waist line; from Q to Z is 
Y2 inch ; point 17 is half way between Y and 4 ; point V is ^ inch above the waist line ; shape 
the side body as indicated. 

Draw a line from 40 to 29; point 7 is half way between 4 and 5; point 8 is half way be- 
tween L and S ; draw a line from 7 through 8 to get line 9. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 42 and L to 9, which is 15 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 134 inches from B to 35 and L to 10, which is 21 
inches. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 to get 12; from 9 to 12 is Yi inch less than 42 to 2 ; 12 to 
13 is Y^ inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 9 by line 7 — 8; from 9 to 27 is 1-6 of 47 breast plus Ya. inch; place 
the square to line 7 — 8 and square forward to get 41 ; shape the front edge from 27 through 
41 and 5 down to 11. 

From 27 to 25 is 1-6 of 47 breast plus 34 inch ; 9 to 30 is 3^ breast ; draw a line from 30 
to 25 and shape the gorge. 

Shape the side of forepart from K through 17 to 29. 

Note: The front overlaps the side body Y^ i"ch between V and 29. 

Draw a straight line from 19 to 11 for the top of skirt; point 23 is where the two lines 
cross; take out a small V at 23. 

From 16 to 14 is 3/2 inch, or the same distance as the front overlaps the side body from 
V to 29; draw a line from 14 through 5 to get point I; from 16 to 18 is 2^ inches; sweep 
from 18 to 24 pivoting at I. 

From 14 to 24 is 2^ inches ; I to 1 1 is 234 inches ; shape the rever to style or taste ; place 
the square to 19 — 36 and square down to 20; from 19 to 20 is 9 inches; 20 to 21 is 134 inches; 
draw a line from 19 through 21 to get 33 ; from 19 to 33 is Ya inch more than W to 34. 

Square down from 14 by the waist line ; from 14 to 28 is the same as 19 to 33 ; from 28 to 
15 is the same length as 28 to 18; square down from 15 by the waist line; finish the skirt as 
indicated, rounding it ^ inch at 21. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



139 




DIAGRAM 66. 



I40 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 67 
DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth g}i inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 50 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap 123/2 inches Hip 39 inches 

Overshoulder ly^ inches 

Add 4 inches to the breast, waist and hip measures, and i inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 95^ inches; B to 12 is }i inch; from A to C 
is }i inch more than the waist length, 17% inches ; from C to D is 6 inches ; from A to E is 50 
inches; F is half way between A and 12; from I'' to G is tV of 42 breast; square out from G, 
F, B, 12, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is ^ inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is J^ of full breast, 21 inches; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is ^ inch; L is 
half way between 28 and H; from L to M is 3J/2 inches; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M, which is 14 inches, and square up; O is half way 
between 28 and M ; from O to P is 1 3^2 inches ; square up and down from P ; this locates point 
R; from A to T is 5^ of 42 breast plus % inch; T to U is % inch; P to V is 1% inches; shape 
the back as indicated. 

From N to W is 3^ of 38 waist ; square down from W to get point 27. 

Point X is half way between N and W ; Y is half way between M and J ; draw a line from 
X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to LT and M to 25, which is 133^^ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus ij4 inches from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 18% 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is % inch less than U to S ; from 
4 to 5 is J4 inch ; shape the shoulder and arms ;ye ; square forward from 25 by line X — Y ; from 
25 to 6 is 34 of 42 breast plus }i inch ; draw a rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is ]/(, 
of 42 breast plus 34 inch ; 25 to 23 is 3-'8 breast ; draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 4 inches ; W to 9 is the same ; 27 to Z is 2 inches ; shape the front edge from 
30 through 8, 9 and Z; from Z to I is ^A inch less than % breast ; from 10 to 11 is 63^2 inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus an extra half an inch from 21 to 13 and 11 to 14, which is 22 
inches; from 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to get 20; draw a line from 20 through 
14 to get 16; from 20 to 16 is the same length as 20 to 15; shape the side and bottom of fore- 
part as indicated. 

THE COLLAR 

From 25 to Q is I inch ; draw a line for the break of lapel through point Q ; from Q to 33 
is 3^ inch more than A to U ; from 33 to 19 is ^i inch; place the square at Q — 19 and square 
down to 32; from 19 to 32 is the width of the collar desired; from 19 to 31 is i34 inches; Q 
to 18 is the same; shape the collar and finish as indicated. This collar will either roll or button 
up high. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



141 




DIAGRAM 67. 



142 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 68 
SHELL FOR FUR OVERCOAT WITH A SHAWL COLLAR 

The measurements as taken over the vest an: as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 38 inches 

Full length 48 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap 12^ inches Hip 39 inches 

Overshoulder 17^ inches 

Add 5 inches to the breast, waist and hip measures and 1 14 inches to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus %. inch, 9^ inches; B to 12 is i inch; from A to 17 is 
I inch more than the waist length, 18 inches; 17 to 13 is 6 inches; from A to E is 48 inches; 
F is half way between A and 12; from F to G is yV of 43 breast; square out from G, F, B, 
12, 17, 13 and E. 

From B to H is }/> of full breast, 211/4 inches; H to J is i}i inches; J to K is % inch; 
L is half way between B and H; from L to M is 3j4 inches; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus i}i inches from B to M, which is 1454 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between B and M; from O to P is 1J/2 inches; square up and down from P; 
this locates point R ; from R to S is I/2 inch. 

From P to V is iJ4 inches; from A to T is >^ of 43 breast plus j4 inch; T to U is ^4 inch; 
shape the back as indicated. 

From N to W is jA of 39 waist ; square down from W to get 27. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a 
line from X through Y to get 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to U and M to 25, which is 13^ inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus ij4 inches from B to 2 and M to 3, which is i8}i 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4; from 25 to 4 is -/s inch less than U to S ; 4 to 5 
is yi inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y ; from 25 to 6 is >^ of 43 breast plus >^ inch ; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is >^ of 43 breast plus J/j inch ; 25 to 23 is Ys breast ; 
draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From 6 to 30 is 4 inches ; K to 8 and W to 9 are the same ; 27 to Z is 21,4 inches ; shape the 
front edge from 30 through 8, 9 and Z; from Zt" I is >^ breast less 34 inch. 

From 10 back to 11 is 6^ inches; apply the hip measure plus an extra inch from 21 to 13 
and II to 14, which is 23 inches; from 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to get 20; draw 
a line from 20 through 14 to get 16; from 2n to 16 is the same length as 20 to 15; shape the 
side and bottom of forepart. 

THE COLLAR 

From 25 to Q is i;4 inches; draw a line foi- the break of lapel as from 7 through Q; this 
locates point 26 ; from O to 19 is y, inch more than A to U ; place the square at point 25—19 
and square down to 32; from 19 to 32 is the widtli of tlie collar desired; from 19 to 31 is i>4 
inches; from O to 18 is the same; shape the collar stand from 31 through 18 to 26; crease the 
lapel over as from 26 to 7, and mark the top edge of the gorge, finishing the collar as repre- 
sented ; shape the shawl as from 32 to 7. 

To finish this collar, see collar diagrams B, C and D, page 155. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



143 




DIAGRAM 68. 



144 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 69 
SHELL FOR FUR OVERCOAT WITH NOTCHED COLLAR AND PEAKED LAPELS 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9 inches Blade I2j/ inches 

Waist length i6^ inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 47 inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches Hip 37 inches 

Overshoulder 17 inches 

Add 5 inches to the breast, waist and hip measures, and iJ4 inches to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — F and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus % inch, 9,^ inches; B to C is i inch; A to D is i 
inch more than the waist length, which is 175^ inches; D to E is 6 inches; A to F is 47 inches; 
Z is half way between A and C; 10 is half way between A and Z; square out from 10, Z, B, 
C, D, E and F. 

From B to G is ^ of full breast, 20^4 inches; G to H is i^ inches; H to J is J4 inch; 
K is half way between B and G; from K to L is 3^-2 inches; square down from L to get W. 

Apply the blade measure plus i''4 inches from B to L, which is 133.4 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between B and L; from O to P is 1J/2 inches; square up and down from P; 
this locates point R; from A to T is 5^ of 41 breast plus ^4 inch; T to U is Y^ inch; draw a 
line from U through R ; from R to S is 'X inch ; U to 23 is ' 4 inch ; shape the back as indi- 
cated. 

From W to X is J/ of 2,J waist ; square down from X to get 19. 

Point Y is half way between W and X; point N is half way between L and H; draw a 
line from Y through N to get 2. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 23 and L to 2, which is 13 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i,'4 inches from B to V and L to 3, which is 1854 
inches. 

Draw a line from 2 through 3 to get 26; from 2 to 26 is ^h inch less than 3 to S; from 
26 to 4 is J/2 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscyc. 

Square forward from 2 by line Y — N; from 2 to 6 is Yf, of 41 breast plus J4 inch; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to J ; from 6 to 8 is 34 of 43 breast plus }< inch ; 2 to 7 is J/^ breast ; 
draw a line from 7 through 8 and shape the gorge. 

Where the collar is to be seamed in, add ai extra seam at the top of the back and the same 
in front of the shoulder point as at point 2, broken lines. 

From J to is 4 inches; X to 11 is the same; 19 to 20 is 2j4 inches; shape the front edge 
through 9, II and 20; from 20 to 21 is Vfe breast less ]/> inch; from 12 to 13 is 6^ inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus an extra inch from 14 to E and 13 to 15, which is 22 inches. 

From 15 to 16 is 2 inches; square up from 16 to get point 22; draw a line from 22 
through 15 to get 17; from 22 to 17 is the same length as 22 to 18 ; shape the side and bottom 
of forepart. 

THE COLLAR 

From 2 to 5 is V/i inches; draw a line for the break of lapel from 5 as to 11 ; from 5 
to 24 is 3/ inch more than A to 23 ; draw a line from 2 to 24 and square down to 27 ; from 24 
to 27 is the width of the collar desired; from 24 to 25 is i34 inches; 5 to 33 is the same; 
shape the collar stand from 25 through 33 to I ; crease the lapel over from I to 11 and mark 
around the top of the gorge as indicated. 

After the collar is cut out. proceed as follows: (see lower diagram) 

From 32 to 28 is the same as A to 23 ; square up and down from 28 by the stand crease ; 
this produces point 29; from 29 to 30 and from 29 to 31 is the surplus flare the collar re- 
quires. 

For further explanations, see collar diagrams B, C and D, page 155. 

This diagram is cut the same as Diagram 63, except that the shoulder seam is cut higher. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



145 




DIAGRAM 68. 



,46 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 70 
SQUARE-SHOULDERED INVERNESS 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Overshoulder 17^^ inches 

Waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Full length 48 inches Breast 38 inches 

Strap i2j/$ inches Waist 34 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and Ya, inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T ; from A to B is the scye depth plus Y^ inch, gYi 
inches; B to 12 is J4 inch; from A to 17 is % inch more than the waist length, 17% inches; 
to E is full length, 48 inches; F is half way between A and 12: from F to G is ^^ of 41 breast; 
square out from G, F, B, 12, 17 and E. 

From B to H is half of full breast, 20Y2 inches; H to J is ij4 inches; J to K is ^ inch; 
L is half way between B and H; from L to M is 3>4 inches; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^ inch from B to M, which is 1334 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between B and M; from O to P is 1Y2 inches; square up and down from 
P ; this locates point R ; from R to S is >4 inch. 

From A to T is ^ of 41 breast plus Ya inch; T to U is Y» inch; draw a line from U to S ; 
from P to 13 is 12 inches; square out from 13; 13 to 14 is 3'^ inches; 13 to 21 is Y2 inch; draw 
lines from P through 21 to get 15 and from P through 14 to get 16; shape the back part as 
indicated. 

From N to W is 1/2 of 37 waist ; square down from W to get point Z ; from Z to I is Y^ 
inch less than Yb breast; point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between 
M and J; draw a line from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from A to 7 and M to 25, which is 13I/J inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 134 inches from B to 2 and M to 3, which is 18% 
inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is Yi i"ch less than 7 to S ; 4 to 5 
is 34 inch ; from I\l to 27 is 3 inches ; square hack from 27 to get V ; shape the shoulder and arm- 
scye and notch the back part at point V. 

Square forward from 25 by line X— Y ; from 25 to 6 is Yb of 41 breast plus Yi inch; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K. 

This coat is to be made up with a Prussian collar; make the distance from 6 to 24 J/^ 
breast plus Y2 inch ; from 25 to 23 is Y& breast ; draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is ij4 inches; W to 9 is the same; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From P to 16 is the same length as P to 15 ; shape the bottom of forepart. 

THE CAPE 

Extend the breast line B — 8 back. 

From M to 10 is the sleeve length; sweep from 10 forward to 26 and backward to 30, 
pivoting at 25 ; draw a line from 30 to S ; from .=; to 22 is J4 breast. 

At the front edge reduce the cape an inch fiom the regular overcoat; shape the cape round- 
ing it Ya inch between 30 and S, as per broken line. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



147 




PIAGRAM 70. 



,48 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 71 
ROUND-SHOULDERED INVERNESS 

The measurements as taken over the vest are as follows : 

Scye depth 9 inches Overshoulder 17 inches 

Waist length i6>^ inches Blade 123^4 inches 

Full length 48 inches Breast 36 inches 

Strap 12 inches Waist 32 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and ^ inch to the blade measure. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 54 inch, 914 inches; B to 12 is 34 inch; A to 17 
is }i inch more than the waist length, 1714 inches; to E is 48 inches; F is half way between 
A and 12; from F to G is 1-12 of 39 breast; square out from G, F. B, 12, 17 and E. 

From B to H is half of full breast, I9>4 inches; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is ■)4 inch; 
L is half way between B and H ; from L to M is 3I/S inches ; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure plus ^ inch from B to M, which is 13 J4 inches and square up; 
O is half way between B and M ; from O to P is ii^ inches; square up and down from P. 

From A to 30 is J4 inch ; draw a line from 30 to F ; from 30 to T is ^i of 39 breast plus 
^ inch; T to U is ^ inch; draw a line from U to S ; from P to 13 is 12 inches; square out 
from 13; from 13 to 14 is 33/2 inches; 13 to 21 is 3/2 inch; draw lines from P through 21 to get 
15 and from P through 14 to get 16. 

From P to 29 is yi inch; 15 to 22 is the same; U to 7 is ^/i inch; shape the back part as 
indicated from 30 to 7, from 7 through R and 29 to 22. 

From N to W is 3/2 of 35 waist ; square down from W to locate point Z ; from Z to I is 
y2 inch less than 1-6 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a 
line from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus i inch from 30 to 7 and M to 25, which is 13 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus 114 inches from B to 2 and M to 3, which is i8j4 

inches. 

Draw a line from 25 to 3 ; from M to 27 is 3 inches ; square back from 27 ; shape the 
shoulder and armscye as indicated and notch the back at point V. 

Square forward from 25 by line X— Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 39 breast plus % inch; draw a 
rounding line from 6 to K; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 39 breast; 25 to 23 is Ys. breast; draw a line 
from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge ; from K to 8 is i^ inches ; W to 9 is the same ; shape the 
front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From P to 16 is the same length as 29 to 22; shape the bottom of forepart and finish. 

THE CAPE 

From M to 10 is the sleeve length; sweep from 10 forward to 26 and backward to 30, 
pivoting at 25; draw a rounding line from 30 through F to 3 ; from 26 to 11 is i inch; shape 
the cape as per broken line. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



149 




DIAGRAM 71. 



,50 AMERICAN GAR MENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 12 
SACK COAT FOR A HUNCH BACK FIGURE 

The measurements for a hunch back figure are taken in the same way as for any other per- 
son, with the following exception : 

Instead of measuring the scye depth in the usual manner, place a straight edge against 
the round part of the back (see opposite figure) and place a square or a straight edge on top 
of it, so as to get the height of the neck as from A to B. The scye depth is then taken in 
the usual manner, and all the other measures taken accordingly. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



151 




152 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



SACK COAT FOR A HUNCHBACK 

The measurements are as follows: 

The height of neck as from A to B on figure is 8 inches. 

Scye depth 934 inches Blade 13 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Breast 36 inches 

Full length 28 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap II inches Hip 36 inches 

Overshoulder 16^ inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is the neck height 8 inches. 

To C is the waist length, 17 inches; from C to D is 6 inches; A to E is full length, 28 
inches; F is half way between A and B; G is half way between A and F; square out from G, 
F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is J/l inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down. 

From 28 to H is ^ of full breast, 18 inches; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is ^ inch; 
L is half way between 28 and H ; from L to i is 3^ inches ; square down from i to get N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M, which is 13 inches, and square up. 

O is half way between 28 and M; from O to P is ij^ inches; square up from P; this 
locates point R. 

From V to Q \s 1/2 inch; square down from Q; P to V is 1-12 breast; from A to T is 
Yi breast plus ^ inch ; T to U is ^ inch ; draw a line from U to S ; from U to 7 is J4 '"ch ; 
shape the back as indicated. 

From N to W is 1/2 waist ; square down from W to get Z ; from Z to I is 3/2 inch less than 
1-6 breast. 

Point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; draw a 
line from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus }i inch from A to 7 and M to 25, which is 11^ inches. 

Now split the back part as from F to the side; open the back part as from F to 12, until 
the distance from 28 up is 9>4 inches, which is the scye depth; now measure the overshoulder 
plus J4 inch from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 17J4 inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is % inch less than 7 to S ; from 
4 to 5 is ^ inch; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X— Y ; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 36 breast plus 14 inch; draw a 
line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 breast; 25 to 27, is ]/& breast; draw a line from 23 to 24 
and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is I inch ; W to 9 is the same ; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z.. 

From 9 to 18 is 314 inches; 10 to 11 is the same. 

Apply the hip measure from 21 to 13 and 11 to 21, which is 18 inches; 21 to 14 is i 

inch. , 

Apply the waist measure from 19 to 17 and 18 to 20, which is 17 inches; from 20 to 19 

is I inch. 

Draw a line from 19 through 14 to get 16; from 19 to 16 is the same length as 19 to 15; 
shape the side and bottom of forepart and finish as represented. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



153 




DIAGRAM 72. 



,54 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 73 
COLLARS 

Diagram A is an ulster collar to button up to the neck and is made as follows : 

Draw a line from G through E to B; from E to B is ^ inch more than the width of top 
of back ; square up and down from B ; from B to C is i % inches ; G to F is the same ; draw a 
straight line from C to F ; draw a line for the collar stand from B through E to F ; from B to H 
is the width of collar desired ; H to A is ^ inch ; shape the collar as indicated. 

Diagrams B, C and D are the continuation of the collars as explained on Diagrams 68 and 69. 

After the collar is cut out as shown on Diagram 68, crease over the collar stand (see Dia- 
gram B). Mark around it as from C, through F, G and J. Now place the back part to point C 
and F and mark the back shoulder over to letter I ; place the forepart to letters G and J and 
mark the front shoulder as at H ; now measure the distance from H to I ; in this case the back 
overlaps the front 5J4 inches. 

From A to D is the same as the top width of back; square down from D through E. (See 
Diagram C). 

From G to H add 2% inches ; from G to I is the same ; draw a line as from H to F and 
from I to F ; now shape both halves of the collar as indicated. 

Diagram D shows the collar after the flare has been added to it ; place the two half collars 
together as from I to H, and reshape the collar as indicated. 

Diagram E is an ulster collar to either roll or button and is made as follows: 

From E to D is i J4 inches ; draw a line from D to the break of lapel, which locates point F ; 
draw a line from F through E to B ; from E to B is 3/^ inch more than the top width of back ; 
square up and down from B; from B to C is 1% inches; shape the collar stand as indicated from 
C through F to G ; from B to H is the width of the collar desired ; from H to A is ^ inch ; finish 
the collar as represented. 

Diagram F is a standing, rolling collar, and is used now for both army and navy. 

Draw a line from G through E to D ; from E to D is J/2 inch more than the top width of 
back ; square up and down from D : from D to C is i inch ; D to B is % inch ; from G to F is 
i^ inches ; draw a line from B to F ; from F to H is 2 inches ; B to A is the same. 

The outer leaf of the collar from A to H must be slightly stretched. Finish as represented. 

Diagram G is the ordinary standing collar and is made as follows : 

Draw a line from F through D to B ; from D to B is ^ inch more than the top width of 
back ; square up and down from B ; from B to C is i inch ; D to E is the same ; from B to A is 
J4 inch ; shape the collar as indicated. 

This kind of a collar has to be measured and made i inch larger than the shirt collar. 

Diagram H is the Prussian collar and is used for policemen's coats and liveries. 

Draw a line from F through E to B ; from E to B is J^ inch more than the top width of 
back; square up and down from B; from B to C is 1% inches; F to G is the same; draw a 
straight line from C to G and shape the collar stand as from B through E to G; from B to A 
is the width of collar desired ; shape as indicated. 

Diagram I is the ordinary collar and is made as follows: 

From E to D is I ^ inches, or the height of the collar stand ; draw a line for the lapel break 
through D; from D to B is >4 inch more than the top width of back; square up and down 
from B ; from B to C is i J4 inches ; point G is a seam below the gorge ; from B to A and G 
to F is the width of collar desired. 

Diagram J is the collar for a fat man's coat. 

It is always taken for granted that a fat man has a short neck. The collar is therefore 
made as follows : 

From E to D is ^ inch ; draw a line for the lapel break through D ; from D to B is i/^ 
inch more than the top width of back ; square up and down from B ; from B to C is % inch ; 
point G is a seam below the gorge; from B to A and G to F is the width of collar desired; 
shape as indicated. 

Diagram K is a standing rolling collar and is used either for ulster, chauffeur's overcoat or 
Inverness. 

Draw a line from F through E to A ; from E to A is J^ inch more than the top width of 
back ; square down from A ; from A to B is i M inches ; from F to D is the same ; shape the 
collar stand from B to F and from A through E to D ; from B to H is the width of collar de- 
sired ; F to G is the same ; from H to C is ^ inch ; shape the collar as indicated. 

The stand at A, E, and D is to be stretched. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



155 




DIAGRAM 73. 



156 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 74 
THE ARMSYCE 

Before you cut the sleeve, measure the armscye as follows : 

Measure around the arinscye closely as from C through D and F to A. 

Now let us say that this armscye is 19 inches; proceed as follows: 

From B to F is >4 of the armscye ; notch the backpart at F ; from E to D is i inch always ; 
now measure the upper arm from D to C and A to F. Let us say that this is g>4 inches. 

Now measure the underarm from D to F. Let us say that from D to F is the same, 9J^ 
inches. Cut the sleeve as follows : 

Draw line A — F and square back to VV ; from A to W is >4 the armscye, which is gyi 
inches ; square down from W. 

For under coats for a normal shoulder, make the distance from A to B 1% inches. If the 
shoulder is wider, from A to B may be i>4 inches, or, if the shoulder is narrower than usual, 
make the distance from A to B, ij<^ inches. 

From B to D is % of the armscye, D to E is the same ; square out from B and D ; from D to 
C is I inch always; from C to H is the width of the upper sleeve, which is 9J/2 inches; draw a line 
from C to H ; point G is half way between C and H ; from C to J is >4 inch less than the width of 
the underarm ; draw a line from J to E ; from A to K is J^ of the armscye and K to L is the same ; 
from D to E is the length of the sleeve ; place the square at G— E and square back to N ; from E 
to N is the width of the sleeve desired plus the seams; from E to Q is i>4 inches; E to R is the 
same; D to O is i}i inches; D to P is the same; S is half way between C and F; square back 
from S ; from S to T is ^ inch ; U to V is the same ; from I to M is % inch ; shape the upper 
and under sleeve as indicated. 



DIAGRAM 76 

HALF AND HALF SLEEVE 

This armscye is measured in the same way as Diagram 74. 

Draw line A— O and square back to W ; from A to W is >< of the armscye ; from A to B 
is iy& inches; B to D is J4 armscye; D to E is the same; square out from B and D; from D to 
C is I inch always ; from C to H is the width of the upper arm ; draw a line from C to H ; 
G is half way between C and H ; from C to J is ^^ inch less than the underarm ; draw a line from 
J to E; from A to K is >^ of armscye; K to L is the same; from D to Q is the length of the 
sleeve ; place the square at G— Q and square out to N ; from Q to N is the width of sleeve 
desired plus the seams ; S is half way between C and Q ; square back from S to get I ; shape the 
upper and under sleeve as indicated. 

All sleeves whether for overcoats or undercoats are cut in the same way, except the sleeve 
for the box coat. (See Diagrams 76 and yy). 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



157 




158 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 77 
SLEEVE FOR A BOX OVERCOAT 

Measure the armscye closely as from C through D, G and F to A. 

Let us say that this armhole measures 20 inches. 

From B to F is J4 of the armscye ; notch the backpart at point F ; from E to D is i inch 
always ; measure the upperarm from D to C and F to A. Let us us say that this measure is 10]/^ 
inches. 

Now measure the underarm from D to G and H to F. Let us say that this is 10% inches. 

Draft your sleeve as follows: (See Diagram 78). 

DIAGRAM 78 

Draw line A — F and square out to W ; from A to W is J^ of the armscye 10 inches 
square down from W. 

From A to B is ij/ inches; B to D is '^ armscye: D to E is the same; square out from B 
and D; from D to C is i inch always; from C to H is the width of the upper arm, io>4 inches; 
drav/ a line from C to H ; G is half way between C and H ; from C to H is >4 inch less than the 
underarm ; draw a line from H to E. 

From A to K is 5^ of the armscye ; K to L is the same ; from D to F is the sleeve length ; 
place your square to line G — F and square out to N; from F to N is the width of the sleeve 
desired, in this case, about I4j4 inches ; add an inch for seams, which makes >4 of it, 7^ inches. 

S is half way between C and F ; square back from S ; from I to M is 1/2 inch ; from D to O 
is 1 14 inches ; D to P is the same ; from F to Q is i H inches ; F to R is the same ; from S to T 
is i/j, inch ; U to V is the same ; shape the upper and under sleeve as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



159 




,6o AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 79 
A NAVAL OFFICER'S BLOUSE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9% inches Overshoiilder 17^ inches 

Waist length 17 inches Blade 13 inches 

Full length 31 inches Breast 38 inches 

Strap 12J/2 inches Waist 34 inches 

Draw line A — E and square out to T ; from A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch, 9^ 
inches; to C is the waist length, 17 inches; C to D is 6 inches; A to E is 31 inches; F is half way 
between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is % inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down; from 28 to H is j^2 
of full breast, 19 inches; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is ^ inch; L is half way between 28 and 
H ; from L to M is 3 J^ inches ; square down from M to get N. 

Apply the blade measure from 28 to M which is 13 inches, and square up. 

Q is half way between 28 and M; from Q to P is ij^ inches; square up from P to locate 
point R ; from R to S is ^ inch. 

From P to V is ^ breast ; 28 to O is ^ breast ; square down from O ; from A to T is ^ 
breast plus % inch ; T to U is 5-^ inch ; shape the back as indicated. 

From N to W is 1/2 waist ; square down from W to get point Z ; from Z to I is i/S inch less 
than 1-6 breast; point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between M and J; 
draw a line from X through Y to get line 25. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to U and M to 25, which is 1334 inches. 

Apply the overshoulder measure plus i inch from 28 to 2 and M to 3, which is 185^^ inches. 

Draw a line from 25 through 3 to get 4 ; from 25 to 4 is % inch less than U to S ; from 4 
to S is J/2 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 breast plus J^ inch; from Z to 
9 is 134 inches; shape the front edge from 6 through K, W and 9. 

From 6 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus J^ inch; 25 to 23 is yi breast; draw a line from 23 to 24 
and shape the gorge. 

From TO to 11 is 2Y2 inches; apply the hip ineasure plus an extra J4 inch from 21 to 13 and 
II to 14, which is 20 inches: from 14 to 21 is 2 inches; square up from 21 to get 20; draw a 
line from 20 through 14 to get 16; from 20 to 16 is the same length as 20 to 15; shape the side 
seam and bottom of forepart as indicated. 

From L to 8 is I inch ; square down from 8. 

From W to 30 is 2>^ inches; apply the waist measure from 20 to 17 and 30 to 20, and take 
out the balance in an underarm fish. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a straight line from 24 through 25 to 7 ; from 25 to 7 is 3^ inch more than A to U ; 
square up and down from 7; from 7 to 22 is i inch; 7 to 18 is }i inch; 24 to 29 is i^ inches; 
shape the collar as indicated. 

These fronts are only to meet, an extra button stand is put on underneath. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



i6i 




DIAGRAM 79. 



l62 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 80 
COACHMAN'S OR FOOTMAN'S FROCK UNDERCOAT 

This diagram is made the same as Diagram 30 except that the whole length is only about 
39 to 40 inches and the fronts button up high with five buttons. 



■^ 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



1 63 




DIAGRAM 80. 



,64 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 81 
BACK FOR FROCK COAT WITHOUT A CENTER SEAM 

In all frock coats either under coats or overcoats, where the back is wanted without a center 
seam, make it as follows: 

Take a seam off from the center back and place the pattern to the fold in the cloth; add 
from B to A lyi inches and from C to D the same. 

DIAGRAM 82 

Diagram 82 is to be used either for a coachman's or policeman's overcoat. 

It is made the same as diagram 64 with the exception of the collar and the revers, which 
are cut as follows : 

After the forepart is cut out, place it on a piece of paper and trace the front edge as from A 
to D so that the rever has the same rounding in the front as the forepart ; make the width 
from D to C 2>4 inches and from A to B 3^ inches; draw a straight line as from C to B. This 
line is where the buttonholes should be. Now add ^ inch to the edge in front of the buttonhole 
and finish. 

The collar for either the policeman's or coachman's coat is the Prussian collar. (See Dia- 
gram 83). 



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165 




,66 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM j63 

COACHMAN'S OVERCOAT 

This overcoat is made tiie same as Diagrams 64, 65 and 66, the rever is made the same as 
in Diagram 82, the collar is a Prussian collar, and is made as follows : 

Draw a straight line from F through D to B ; from D to B is J/^ inch more than the top 
width of back; square up and down from B; fiom B to C is i>4 inches F to E is the same; draw 
a straight line from C to E ; shape the collar stand from B through D to E ; from B to A is the 
width of the collar desired ; from E to G is the same. 

The difference between the coachman's and the policeman's coat is that the policeman's 
coat has no skirt flaps and the flaps at the side pleats are finished with two buttons instead of 
three. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



167 




DIAGRAM 83. 



l68 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 84 
NORFOLK COAT 

This coat is cut from the ordinary sack coat pattern. After the pattern is cut out as usual, 
proceed as follows: 

THE BACKPART 

Point F is half way between E and G; from E to A is i>C} inches; G to B is the same; cut 
the back through as marked; now add a seam to the lower portion of the back and add the 
same to the yoke. 

The forepart is made in the same way. 

From K to J is i inch ; I is half way between H and J ; from H to C is >4 inch ; K to D is 
the same ; cut the pattern through as from C to I and from I to D ; add a seam to the lower part 
of the front and the same to the yoke. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



169 




DIAGRAM 84. 



[70 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 85 

CIRCULAR CAPE 

Square down and out from B. 

Take overcoat pattern of the size required and place the center of back pattern to line A — C; 
place the forepart, the front edge to touch at line B — D with the back and shoulder pitch to 
touch as at point 4 ; mark around the back as from A to U and from U to 4 and the forepart 
from 4 to I and from i to 24. 

Point 24 is where the notch comes on the forepart; add from U to 7 on the backpart J4 inch 
and reduce the front shoulder from i to 25 the same ; reshape as indicated. 

Reduce the cape at the front edge at 24 — Z i inch ; draw a line from A to 24 ; point O is 
half way between A and 24; from A to C is the length of the cape desired; sweep from C to 
Z, pivoting at O ; from C to E is 5^ inch ; Z to I is r inch ; reshape the cape and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



171 




DIAGRAM 85. 



,7a AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAMS 86 and 87 
SHOULDERICAPE 

Select the overcoat pattern for the size desired and proceed as follows : 

Draw line A — C ; place the backpart pattern, the edge to touch at A — C, and mark around 

it as from A to D and D to E ; line B is the breast line ; from B to F is I/2 breast ; F to G is 1-3 

breast. 

Draw a line front D through G ; from A to C is the length of the cape desired ; sweep from 

C to H, pivoting at D; from H to I is 2% inches; from I back to J is i inch; shape the side as 

indicated from D through E to J and shape the bottom of the cape from C to J. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



m 




DIAGRAM 86. 



iy4 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 87 
THE FOREPART 

The forepart is made as follows : 

Place the forepart pattern on a sheet of paper and mark around it as indicated. 

From A to D is ^ breast ; from A to B is i inch ; A to C is the same ; from D to C is the 
same length as D to B ; line E is the breast line; from E to O is i inch; O to F is 3J4 inches; 
from F to G is ^ breast; G to H is 1-3 breast ; draw a straight line from C through H to get 
J ; from | to K is i inch ; sweep from K to L, pivoting at P ; from L to M is I inch and from 
M to N is the same; from P to B and C to K of the forepart is ^ inch more than D to J of the 
backpart. Shape the front of cape and finish as represented. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



175 




DIAGRAM 87. 



176 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAMS 88 and 89 
A HOOD 

The hood is made as follows: 

Select the overcoat pattern of the size desired ; place the back part on a sheet of paper and 
mark around it as from C to A, A to U, and U to S. 

Line B is the breast line; from B to L is 3/2 breast; L to M is 2}^ inches; now place the 
fore part to overlap the back part Y^ inch from S to 4 ; make the opening between U and 25 i 
inch ; now mark around the shoulder and gorge of the fore part as from 4 to 25 and from 25 
to 24; point 24 is where the lapel crease is; draw a line from 24 to M. 

From A to C is the length of hood desired ; draw a line from C to M ; shape the hood, add- 
ing about an inch rounding over the line 24 — M. 

Diagrami 89 is the hood after it is folded into place. 

After the hood has been folded, as is herein shown, go in from A to B i inch ; round the 
center seam away as to line B ; stretch out the fold and shrink in the center seam as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



177 




jyg AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 90 
SINGLE-BREASTED NO COLLAR VEST 

The measurements are the same as those taken for the coat, with the exception of the open- 
ing and the full length. 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches Breast 36 inches 

Waist length i6j/i inches Waist 32 inches 

Strap 12 inches Opening 12 inches 

Blade 12^ inches Full length 25^^ inches 

Draw line A — D and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 >nch, 9^ inches ; to C is the waist length, i6>^ 
inches; from C to D is 2^ inches; E is half way between A and B; 16 is half way between A 
and E; square out from 16, B, C and D. 

From B to 8 is 14 inch ; C to X is i inch ; shape the center of back from E through 8 and X. 

From 8 to F is J4 of full breast, 18 inches; F to G is ij4 inches; G to H is ^ inch; I is 
half way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure minus ■/ inch from 8 to J, which is 12 inches, and square up. 

The blade for the vest is always cut yi inch smaller than for the coat. The reason for do- 
ing so is because the coat has 5 seams between 8 and J and the vest has 3. 

T is half way between 8 and J ; from T to U is i^ inches ; square up from U to locate point 
Q ; from A to R is i/^ breast plus J^ inch ; R to S is ^ inch ; draw a line from S to Q ; from 
S to 5 is % inch. 

From M to N is lA waist; P is half way between M and N; point L is half way between 
J and G; draw a line from P through L to get point O. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to 5 and J to O, which is 12% inches ; draw 
a line from O to Q ; from O to 2 is 3^ inch less than 5 to Q ; shape the back, shoulder, and 
armscye. 

Square forward from O by line P — L; from O to 4 is 1-6 breast plus 5^ inch; shape the 
front edge from 4 through H and N ; from O to 3 is % inch ; O to 18 is ^ inch less than A to 
5; from 18 to 17 is 3^ inch; 18 to 19 is ^ inch; apply the opening measure plus 3^ inch from 
18 to H, which is 123/2 inches; apply the full length measure plus 134 inches from 18 to Z. 

Draw a line from 3 to H and shape the gorge as indicated. 

From M to W is 1 inch; from X to Y is 34 waist plus i inch; from I to V is 134 inches; 
draw lines from V to W and from V to Y ; shape the side of forepart and back ; draw a line 
from 14 to Z and shape the bottom of forepart; from 14 to 15 is -^g inch; finish as represented. 

The pockets are marked as follows : 

From K to 10 is 4^2 inches; 7 to 12 is 434 inches; draw a line from 10 to 12; mark the 
lower pocket as indicated. For the breast pocket go down from L to i 13^:4 inches; mark the 
breast pocket to be nearly parallel with the lower pocket and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



179 




«o 



DIAGRAM 90. 



i8o AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 91 
SINGLE-BREASTED VEST WITH A NOTCHED COLLAR FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth g^i inches Breast 40 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Waist 40 inches 

Strap 13 inches Opening 13 inches 

Blade 13^ inches Full length 2yy2 inches 

Draw line A — D and square out to R ; from A to B is the scye depth plus 34 inch, g}i inches ; 
to C is the waist length, 17 inches; from C to D is 2J/2 inches; E is half way between A and B; 
16 is half way between A and E; square out from 16, B, C, D. 

From B to 8 is 54 '"ch ; C to X is 5^ inch ; shape the center of back from E through 8 
and X. 

From 8 to F is 34 of full breast, 20 inches; F to G is 134 inches; G to H is J4 inch; I is 
half way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches ; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less yi inch from 8 to J, which is 13 inches, and square up. 

T is half way between 8 and J; from T to U is 134 inches; square up from U; this locates 
point Q ; from A to R is yi breast plus }i inch ; R to S is 34 inch ; draw a line from S to Q ; 
from S to 5 is 34 inch. 

From M to N is 3^ waist; point P is half way between M and N; point L is half way be- 
tween J and G ; draw a line from F through L to locate line O. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to 5 and J to O, which is 13^ inches. 

Draw a line from O to Q ; from O to 2 is 3/ inch less than 5 to Q ; shape the back, shoulder 
and armscye. 

Square forward from O by line P — L; from O to 4 is 1-6 breast plus 3^ inch; shape the 
front edge from 4 through H and N ; from O to 3 is % inch. 

Apply the opening measure plus % inch' from A to 5 and O to H, which is 13J4 inches. 

Apply the full length measure plus 134 inches from A to 5 and O to Z, which is 28 J4 
inches. 

Draw a line from 3 to H and shape the gorge. 

From M to W is i inch; X to Y is 34 waist plus i inch; from I to V is 134 inches; draw 
lines from V to W and from V to Y ; shape the side seams of fore part and back. 

Draw a line from 14 to Z and shape the bottom of forepart; from 14 to 15 is 34 inch. 

Where the waist is as large as the breast, the pocket is cut open at the lower edge and f^ 
inch taken out at point K. 

The collars for these vests are cut without a collar stand; the fronts are cut full and the 
collar is sewed on flat. 
DIAGRAM 92. 

Diagram 92 shows the forepart after the V has been taken out from the front and the 
pocket open. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



i8i 



ol6 




DIAGRAM 91. 



l82 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 92 

Diagram 92 shows the forepart after the V has been taken out from the front and the 
pocket open. 

DIAGRAM 93 

SINGLE-BREASTED VEST FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9% inches Breast 42 inches 

Waist length 171^ inches Waist 44 inches 

Strap 13I/2 inches Opening 141/2 inches 

Blade 14 inches Full length 28 inches 

Draw line A — D and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus i/4 inch, 10 inches; to C is 171/2 inches; from C to D 
is 2y2 inches ; E is half way between A and B ; 16 is half way between A and E ; square out 
from 16, B, C and D. 

From C to X is ^ inch ; draw a line from E to X and shape the center back ; from 8 to 
F is 1/^ of full breast, 21 inches; F to G is 114 inches; G to H is ^ inch; square up from H. 

I is half way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less 3/2 inch from 8 to J, which is 131/0 inches and square up. 

T is half way between 8 and J ; from T to U is i }4 inches ; square up from U ; this lo- 
cates point Q ; from A to R is y^ breast plus ^ inch ; R to S is 1/0 inch ; draw a line from S to 
Q ; from S to 5 is 14 inch. 

From M to N is ^ waist ; P is half way between M and N ; point L is half way between 
J and G; draw a line from P through L to get line O. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^^ inch from A to 5 and J to O, which is 14J4 inches. 

Draw a line from O to Q ; from O to 2 is J/j inch less than 5 to Q ; shape the back, shoul- 
der and armscye. 

Square forward from O by line P — L; from O to 4 is 1-6 breast plus ]/2 inch. 

Place the square to line P — L and square forward to locate point 12; shape the front edge 
from 4 through 12 and N. 

From O to 3 is 5^ inch; apply the opening measure plus ^ inch from A to 5 and O to 12, 
which is 15^ inches. 

Apply the full length measure from A to 5 and O to Z plus i ' :; inches, which makes it 2934 
inches. 

Draw a line from 3 to 12 and shape the gorge. 

From M to W is i inch; X to Y is ^ waist plus i inch; I to V is 1% inches; shape the 
sides of fore part and back part ; shape the bottom of fore part, mark the lower pocket, and 
take out a 4^ inch V at point K, same as on Diagrams 91 and 92. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



183 




l84 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 94 

DOUBLE-BREASTED NO COLLAR VEST 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Breast 40 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Waist 36 inches 

Strap 13 inches Opening 12 inches 

Blade 131^, inches Full length 27 inches 

Draw line A — D and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 14 '"ch, 9% inches; to C is the waist length, 17 
inches; from C to D is 23^ inches; E is half way between A and B; 16 is half way between 
A and E; square out from 16, B, C and D. 

F"rom C to X is I inch ; B to 8 is ^4 inch ; shape the center of back seam from E through 
8 and X. 

From 8 to F is 1/0, of full breast, 20 inches; F to G is ii/4 inches; G to H is 54 inch; I is 
half way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less 1^ inch from 8 to J, which is 13 inches, and square up. 

T is half way between 8 and J; from T to U is ij^ inches; square up from U; this lo- 
cates point Q. 

From A to R is Yg breast plus % inch ; R lo S is >< inch ; draw a line from S to Q ; from 
S to 5 is 14 inch. 

From M to K is lA waist; point P is half way between M and K; point L is half way 
between J and G; draw a line from P through L to get line O. 

Apply the strap measure plus J4 inch from A to 5 and J to O, which is 13^ inches. 

Draw a line from O to Q ; from O to 2 is 1/2 inch less than 5 to Q ; shape the back, 
shoulder and armscye. 

From K back to N is yi inch ; draw a line from H through N to get Z ; from O to 3 is 
34 inch ; 3 to 19 is 14 inch less than A to 5. 

Apply the opening measure plus i/o inch from 19 to H, and the full length plus 134 inches 
from 19 to Z ; draw a line from 3 through H for the gorge. 

From N to 14 is 3 inches; Z to 18 is 114 inches; draw a line from 18 to 14; add J4 inch 
for make up in front of line 14 — 18 ; shape the gorge and front edge as indicated. 

From M to W is i inch; X to Y is i/o waist plus i inch; I to V is Ij4 inches; shape the 
side seams of forepart and packpart. 

Draw a line from 7 to Z; add %. inch to the length of the back at point 11 ; after the front 
is cut out crease the front over as at line H — N, reshape the bottom and mark the buttons and 
buttonholes as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



i8? 




DIAGRAM 94. 



l86 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 95 

DOUBLE-BREASTED NO^COLLAR VEST FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

^^y^ ^^P'h 9Va inches Breast 42 inches 

Wa'st length 171/2 inches Waist 42 inches 

^^'■^P laVa inches Opening 121/0 inches 

^'^•^^ 14 inches Full length 27^ inches 

Draw lineA — D and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 14 inch, 10 inches; to C is 171/0 inches; from C to 
D IS 2I/0 inches; E is half way between A and B; 16 is half way between A and E; square 
out from 16, B, C and D. 

From C to X is % inch; draw a line from E to X and shape the center of back. 

From 8 to F is 1/0 of full breast, 21 inches; F to G is i>4 inches; G to H is % inch; I is 
half way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less >^ inch from 8 to J, which is 13I/2 inches and square up. 

T is half way between 8 and J; from T to U is 114 inches; square up from U; this 
locates point Q. 

From A to R is % breast plus J4 inch ; R to S is 1/0. inch ; draw a line from S to Q ; from 
S to 5 is 14 inch. 

From M to K is 1/2 waist ; point P is half way between M and K ; point L is half way be- 
tween J and G ; draw a line from P through L to get point O. 

Apply the strap measure plus Y^ inch from A to 5 and J to O, which is 14^4 inches. 

Draw a line from O to Q; from O to 2 is 1/3 inch less than 5 to Q; shape the back, 
shoulder and armscye. 

From K to N is i^ inch; draw a straight line from H through N to get 13; place the 
square to line C — N and square down; this locates point Z. 

From O to 3 is M inch; from O to 20 is >4 inch less than A to 5. 

Apply the opening measure plus 1/0 inch from 20 to 10, and the full length plus ii^ 
inches from 20 to 13; draw a line from 3 through 10, and shape gorge as indicated. 

From 24 to 22 is 3 inches; 13 to 25 is ii/o inches; draw a line from 22 to 25 and add 
on 34 inch to the front edge for make-up. 

From M to W is i inch; X to Y is 1/0 waist plus i inch; I to V is 114 inches; shape the 
sides of front and backpart as indicated. 

The distance between 13 and Z is to be taken out between 26 and 27 after the pocket is 
cut open. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



187 




DIAGRAM 95. 



i88 AMERICAN GAR MENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 96 

DOUBLE BREASTED VEST WITH A COLLAR AND LAPEL 

THE SAME AS ON A COAT 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9H inches Breast 38 inches 

Waist length 17 inches VVajst 34 inches 

Strap 12^^ inches Opening 12 inches 

J^lade 13 inches Full length 261^ inches 

Draw line A — D and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 95^ inches; to C is the waist length, 17 
inches; C to D is 2^2 inches; E is half way between A and B; 16 is half way between A and 
E; square out from 16, B. C and D. 

From B to 8 is 34 inch; C to X is i inch; shape the center back from E through 8 and X. 

From 8 to F is I/2 breast, 19 inches; F to G is ii/4 inches; G to H is 14 inch; I is half 
way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less 1/2 inch from 8 to J, which is 12I/0 inches and square up ; 
T is half way between 8 and J; from T to U is 1^4 inches; square up from U to locate 
point Q. 

From A to R is >^ breast plus ^ inch; R to S is 34 inch; draw a line from S to Q; from 

S to 5 is 1/4 or y& inch. 

From M to K is 1/2 waist; point P is half way between M and K; point L is half way 
between J and G ; draw a line from P through L to get line O. 

Apply the strap measure plus % inch from A to 5 and J to O, which is 13^4 inches. 

Draw a line from O to Q; from O to 2 is 1/2 inch less than 5 to Q; shape the back, 
shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from O by line P — L. 

From O to 4 is 3^ breast ; draw a rounding Hne from 4 to H ; from K to N is 1/2 inch ; 
draw a straight line from H through N to get Z; from 4 to 22 is 1-6 breast plus 34 inch; 
O to 23 is i/s breast; draw a line from 23 to 22 and shape the gorge. 

Apply the opening measure plus ^ inch from A to 5 and O to 10, which is 12^ inches. 

Apply the full length measure plus 134 inches from A to 5 and O to Z, which is 2734 

inches. 

From O to 3 is I inch ; draw a line from 3 through 10 for the break of lapel. 

From N to 14 is 3 inches; Z to 18 is iVi inches; draw a line from 14 to 18 and add yi, 
inch to the front edge for the make-up; shape the lapel as indicated. 

From M to W is i inch; X to Y is Vo waist plus i inch; I to V is 134 inches; shape the 
sides of the front and back part as indicated. 

Draw a line from 15 to Z; crease the front over on line Z— N and reshape the bottom 

of forepart. 

THE COLLAR 

Extend the line 3—10 up to 20 ; from 3 to 20 is 1/4 inch more than A to 5 ; square up 
and down from 20; 20 to 21 is i inch; 20 to 19 is 1 34 inches; shape the collar as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



189 




DIAGRAM 96. 



I90 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 97 

DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST WITH REVER 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 914 inches Breast 37 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap 121/4 inches Opening 12% inches 

Blade 12% inches Full length 25^ inches 

Draw line A — D and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus y^ inch, gj/z inches; to C is the waist length, 17 
inches; from C to D is 2V2 inches; E is half way between A and B; 16 is half way between 
A and E; square out from 16, B, C and D. 

From B to 8 is ^^ inch ; C to X is i inch ; shape the center back from E through 8 and X. 

From 8 to F is 1/2, of full breast, i8j^ inches; F to G is i}i inches; G to H is 1/0 inch; 
I is half way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less 1/0 inch from 8 to J, which is 1214 inches and square up. 

T is half way between 8 and J; from T to U is 1I4 inches; square up from U; this 
locates point Q. 

From A to R is Ys breast plus ^ inch; from R to S is V^ inch; draw a line from S to Q; 
from S to 5 is K inch. 

From M to K is yi waist; point P is half way between M and K; point L is half way be- 
tween J and G ; draw a line from P through L to get line O. 

Apply the strap measure plus % inch from A to 5 and J to O, which is 13 inches. 

Draw a line from O toO; from O to 2 is i/^ inch less than 5 to Q; shape the back, shoul- 
der and armscye. 

Square forward from O by line P — L; from O to 4 is 1-6 breast plus 14 inch; from K 
to N is J4 inch ; shape the front edge from 4 through H and N ; from O to 3 is 5^ inch. 

Apply the opening measure plus % inch from A to 5 and O to H, which is 1314 inches, 
and apply the full length plus 114 inches from A to 5 and O to Z which is 27 inches. 

Draw a line from 3 through H and shape the gorge down to 22. 

For the rever draw a straight line along (he front edge as line 13 — K; make the width 
of rever from 24 to 22, 3''/j inches, more or less, according to taste. 

From 13 to 25 is iH inches; draw a line from 22 to 25 and add ^ inch to the widch of 
rever for make up. 

From M to W is i inch; X to Y is J^ waist plus i inch; I to V is 1I4 inches; shape the 
sides of the front and backpart as indicated; add to the length of the back J4 inch at 17; shape 
the bottom of forepart and the rever and finish. 

The collar, the same as in the single breasted vest, is cut flat, and requires no collar stand. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



191 




DIAGRAM 97. 



,g2 AM ERIC AN GARMENT CUTTER. 

DIAGRAM 98 
CLERICAL VEST 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth • • 9>^ inches Breast 39 inches 

Waist length 17% inches Waist 35 inches 

Strap 12% inches Size of collar I5>4 inches 

Blade 13M inches Full length 26^ inches 

Draw line A— D and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus 1^4 i"ch, 9^4 inches; to C is the waist length, iy% 
inches ; from C to D is 23/ inches ; E is half way between A and B ; 16 is half way between 
A and E; square out from 16, B, C, and D. 

From B to 8 is 14 inch; C to X is i inch; shape the center of back from E through 
8 and X. 

From 8 to F is 1/ of full breast, 19^^ inches; F to G is 1^4 inches; G to H is ^ inch; 
I is half way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less >4 inch from 8 to J, which is i2}i inches, and square up; 
T is half way between 8 and J; from T to U is ii/4 inches; square up from U; this locates 
point Q. 

From A to R is i/^ breast plus % inch ; R to S is 1/2 inch ; draw a line from S to Q ; from 
S to 5 is H inch. 

From M to N is 1/0 waist; point P is half way between M and N; point L is half way 
between J and G; draw a line from P through L to get O. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^ inch from A to 5, and J to O, which is 13I/2 inches. 

Draw a line from O to O ; from O to 2 is 1/0 inch less than 5 to Q ; shape the back, 
shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from O by line P — L; from O to 4 is 1-6 of the collar size plus 3/i inch; 
shape the front edge from 4 through H and N. 

From 4 to 24 is 1-6 of the collar size plus yu inch; O to 23 is j-g breast; draw a line 
from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

Apply the full length measure plus i '4 inches from A to 5 and O to Z, which is 28 inches. 

From M to W is i inch ; X to Y is 1/2 waist plus i inch ; I to V is i !4 inches ; shape the 
sides of the front and backpart as indicated. 

Add I/4 inch to the backpart at point 17 and shape the bottom of forepart. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a line from 24 through O to get 20; from 24 to 20 is the length of the collar de- 
sired plus l^ inch ; square up and down from 20. 

From 20 to 21 is i inch; 20 to 19 is % inch; 24 to 7 is i}i inches; shape the collar as in- 
dicated. 

Diagrams 99 and 100 show the clerical vest if buttoned on the side. 

Place the front pattern on a piece of paper, and mark around the side, shoulder and 
armhole, as on Diagram 99 and cut it off as from A to B, broken line ; this piece is used for 
the button stand. (See Diagram 100.) The side and shoulder of this piece are sewed on to 
the back on the left side. The buttons are placed upon the piece and the buttonholes are 
cut in the left front. 

If this vest is to be made up without a front seam, take off a seam from the front edge as 
shown on Diagram 99. 



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194 



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DIAGRAM 101 



EVENING DRESS VEST 



Breast 36 

Wais|t 32 

Opening 20 

Full length 253 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



The measurements are as follows: 

Scye depth 9 inches 

Waist length 165^ inches 

Strap 12 inches 

Blade 125/^ inches 

Draw line A — D and square out to R. 

From A to B is the scye depth plus '4 inch, 9'4 inches ; to C is the waist length, 16^ 
inches ; C to D is 2I/2 inches ; E is half way between A and B ; 16 is half way between A and 
E; square out from 16, B, C and D. 

From B to 8 is 34 inch ; C to X is i inch ; shape the center seam from E through 8 and X ; 
from 8 to F is 1/0 of full breast, 18 inches; F to G is iVi inches; G to H is J4 inch; I is half 
way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less Yz inch from 8 to J, which is 12 inches, and square up; 
T is half way between 8 and J ; from T to U is ii/i inches ; square up from U ; this locates 
point Q. 

From A to R is i/g breast plus ^ inch ; R to S is 3/ inch ; draw a line from Q to S ; 
from S to 5 is ^^ inch. 

From M to N is yi waist; point P is half way between M and N; point L is half way 
between J and G; draw a line from P through L to get O. 

Apply the strap measure plus ^4 inch from A to 5 nd J to O, which is 12^ inches. 

Draw a line from O to Q ; from O to 2 is ^i inch less than 5 to Q ; shape the back, shoul- 
der and armscye. 

Shape the front edge from H through N to Z ; apply tb.e opening measure plus fi inch 
from A to 5 and O to N, which is 20-)4 inches ; from A to 5 and O to Z is the full length 
plus I '4 inch, which is 26^ inches. 

From O to 3 is 34 inch; H to 6 is 1-6 breast; draw a line from 3 to 6 and shape the 
opening as represented. 

From M to W is I inch; X to Y is ^ waist plus i inch; I to V is 1I4 inches; shape the 
sides of front and backpart as indicated. 

Shape the bottom of forepart and finish. 



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DIAGRAM loi. 



ig6 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 102 
DOUBLE BREASTED DRESS VEST 

The measurements are as follows : 

Scye depth 9^ inches Breast 38 inches 

Waist length 17 inches Waist 34 inches 

Strap I2>^ inches Opening 20 inches 

Blade 13 inches Full length 26^ inches 

Draw line A — D and square out to R; from A to B is the scye depth plus J4 inch, 9^ 
inches; to C is the waist length, 17 inches; from C to D is 2^-2 inches; E is half way between 
A and B ; 16 is half way between A and E ; square out from 16, B, C and D. 

From B to 8 is J4 inch ; C to X is i inch ; shape the center of back from E through 8 and X ; 
from 8 to F is J^ of full breast, 19 inches; F to G is ij4 inches; G to H is J4 inch; I is half 
way between 8 and F; from I to J is 3 inches; square down from J to get M. 

Apply the blade measure less J<^ inch from 8 to J, which is i2j^ inches, and square up. 

T is half way between 8 and J; from T to U is 1% inches; square up from U; this locates 
point Q. 

From A to R is ^ breast plus ^ inch ; R to S is 3/2 inch ; draw a line from S to Q ; from 
S to 5 is % inch. 

From M to K is J^ waist; point P is half way between M and K; point L is half way be- 
tween J and G ; draw a line from P through L to get O. 

Apply the strap measure plus 3^ inch from A to 5 and J to O, which is 13^ inches. 

Draw a line from O to Q ; from O to 2 is y^ inch less than 5 to O ; shape the back, shoul- 
der and armscye. 

From K back to N is >4 inch ; draw a line from H through N to get Z ; from A to 5 and O 
to N is the opening plus •)4 inch ; from A to 5 and O to Z is the full length measure plus i ^ 
inches ; from O to 3 is ^ inch ; from H to 6 is J4 inch less than % breast ; draw a line from 3 
through 6 and shape the opening as indicated. 

From N to 14 is 2j/ inches; Z to 18 is 1)4 inches; draw a line from 14 to 18 and add 
J4 inch to the front edge for make-up. 

M to W is I inch; X to Y is ^ waist plus i inch; I to V is i^ inches; shape the sides 
of the back and forepart ; crease the forepart over on line N — Z ; shape the bottom of forepart 
and mark the butons and buttonholes as indicated. 



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DIAGRAM 102. 



1 98 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 103 

DOUBLE BREASTED DRESS VEST WITH A V-SHAPED FRONT 

This vest is made the same way as Diagram 102, with the following exceptions : 
After the center line of the forepart is established, as line A — D, go up as from D to E, 
jJ/2 inches ; from A to B is 2^ inches ; draw a line from B through E ; add }i inch to the front 
edge for make-up ; crease the front over on line A — D, and mark the buttons and buttonholes 
as indicated, point E being the last buttonhole. 



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DIAGRAM 103. 



200 AM ERIC AN G ARM ENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 104 

TROUSERS 

The measurements are as follows: 

Outside length 42 inches Seat 40 inches 

Inseam 32 inches Knee 19^^ inches 

Waist 34 inches Bottom i6>4 inches 

THE FOREPART 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the outside length, 42 inches ; B to C is the inseam, 32 inches ; point D is 
2 inches more than half way between B and C ; from C to 2 is J^ seat ; square out from 2, C, 
D and B ; from C to E is >4 seat, 10 inches ; E to F is % inch ; square up from F ; point G is 
half way between E and F ; from G to H is >^ seat ; point K is half way between C and H ; 
from B to L is the same distance as C to K ; drawn a line from L through K to establish points 
O— R. 

From L to M is y\ inch less than ]\i bottom; L to N is the same; from O to P is >4 
of the knee measure ; O to Q is the same ; from H to J is 5^ inch ; shape the inseam and the 
outside seam as indicated ; from R to S is ;4 waist ; R to T is the same ; draw a line from E to 
S to establish point 3; finish the forepart as represented. 

DIAGRAM 105 
THE BACKPART 

Extend lines S— T, 3—2, H— C, P— O and M— N. 

From N to 5 is >^ of bottom plus Yz inch for seams; M to 4 is the same; from Q to Z is 
^ inch; P to Y is ^4 inch; from 2 to X is ij^ inches; draw a line from Z through X to establish 
8; from H to V is ^ seat; V to W is ^ inch ; point U is half way between R and S ; draw a line 
from 3 through U; from U to 6 is 3 inches ; draw a line from 6 to 8; from 6 to 10 is >^ waist; 
ID to 7 is I J/2 inches for seams whatever is left from 7 to 8, cut it out as a V between 10 and 
9. Finish the backpart as indicated. 



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DIAGRAM 



105. 



DIAGRAM 104. 



202 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM J 06 

TROUSERS FOR A STOUT FIGURE 

The measurements are as follows: 

Outside length 43 inches Seat 44 inches 

Inseam 32 inches Knee 22 inches 

Waist 42 inches Bottom 17 inches 

THE FOREPART 

Square down and out from A. 

From A to B is the outside length, 43 inches ; from B to C is the inseam, 32 inches ; point 
D is 2 inches more than half way between B and C; from C to 2 is % seat; square out from 
2, C, D and B. 

From C to E is 3^ seat. 1 1 inches ; E to F is ^ inch ; square up from F to locate K ; point 
G is half way between E and F; from G to H is >^ seat: point K is half way between C and 
H ; from B to L is the same distance as C to K ; draw a line from L through K to establish 
points O — R. 

From L to M is % inch less than J4 bottom ; L to N is the same : from O to P is J4 knee : 
O to Q is the same; from H to J is ^4 inch; shape the inseam and outside seam as represented. 

Draw a line from E through K to establish point 3; from R to 13 is ^ waist; R to T 
is the same; from 13 to S is >4 inch more than K to 13: shape the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines K— T, 3—2, C— H, Q— P and M— N. 

From N to 5 is ^ bottom plus yi inch for seams ; from M to 4 is the same ; from Q to Z 
is ji inch ; P to Y is J4 inch ; from H to V is tV seat ; V to W is % inch ; point U is half 
way between R and 13 ; draw a line from 3 through U ; from U to 6 is 3 inches ; from 2 to X 
is I J4 inches ; draw a line from Z through X to establish point 8 ; draw a line from 6 to 8. 

From 6 to 10 is 3/2 waist; 10 to 7 is i^^ inches for seams; whatever is left from 7 to 8, 
cut it out as a V ; finish the backpart as represented. 



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DIAGRAM 106. 



204 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM J 07 
FAT MAN'S TROUSERS 

The measurements are as follows : 

Outside length 43 >:^ inches Seat 44 inches 

Inseam 32^4 inches Knee 21 inches 

Waist 44 inches Bottom 17 inches 

Draw line A — B and square out to U. 

From A to B is the outside length, 43 J/^ inches; B to C is the inseam, 32 j4 inches; from B 
to D is 2 inches more than half way between B and C; from C to 2 is 1-6 seat; square out 
from 2, C, D and B. 

From C to E is J^ scat ; E to F is ^ inch ; square up from F to get point S ; draw a line 
from E to S ; point G is half way between E and F ; from G to J is j/^ seat ; J back to H is 
S/ji inch ; point K is half way between C and J ; from B to L is the same distance as C to K ;draw 
a line from L through K to locate points O — R. 

From L to M is >4 'tich less than 14 bottom ; L to N is the same ; from O to P is 34 knee ; 
O to Q is the same ; from R to U is ^ waist ; R to T is the same ; from U to V is ^ inch more 
than U to S; draw a line from T to V; shape the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines A— S, 2—6, C— J, Q— P and M— N. 

From M to 5 is >^ bottom plus J4 inch for seams ; N to 4 is the same ; from Q to Z is 34 
inch ; P to 3 is ^ inch ; from J to X is 1-12 seat ; X to Y is % inch ; point 7 is half way between 
R and U ; draw a line from 6 through 7 to get 8 ; from 7 to 8 is 3 inches. 

From 2 to W is 134 inches; draw a line from Z through W to locate point 9; draw a line 
from 8 to 9; from 8 to 9 is 3.-2 waist plus i inch for seams. 

The waist in these trousers being as large as the seat, there is no V coming out of the back- 
part. 

Shape the backpart and finish. 



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DIAGRAM 107. 



2o6 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 108 

PEG TOP TROUSERS 

The measurements are as follows : 

Outside length 42 inches Seat .39 inches 

Inseam 32 inches Knee 21 inches 

Waist 33 inches Bottom 16 inches 

Draw line A — B an<l square out to U. 

From A to B is the outside length, 42 inches; B to 12 is the inseam, 32 inches; Z is 2 inches 
more than half wa}- between B and 12; from 12 to 14 is 1-6 seat; square out from 14, 12, Z and B. 

From 12 to E is J4 seat; E to F is ^ inch ; square up froni F ; G is half way betv/een E and 
F; from G to J is Y^ seat; J back to H is y^ inch; point K is half way between 12 and J; from 
B to L is the same distance as 12 to K ; draw a line from L through K ; this locates points O — R. 

From L to M is '4 inch less than ^ bottom ; L to N is the same : draw a straight line 
from H to M ; this locates point P; from P to O is //S knee; from 12 to C is i inch; from 
R to U is 14 waist ; R to T is the same ; shape the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines U— T, 6—14, 12— J, 0— P and M— N. 

From M to 5 is J< bottorn plus 3-4 inch for seams ; N to 4 is the same ; from O to Z is 34 i"ch ; 
P to 3 is ^ inch ; from J to X is 1-12 seat ; X to Y is V^ inch ; point 7 is half way between R and 
U ; draw a line from 6 through 7 ; from 7 to 8 is 3 inches. 

From 14 to 13 is 13-^ inches; draw a line from Z through 13 to locate point 9; draw a line 
from 9 to 8; from 8 to 11 is 3/2 waist; 11 to 10 is ij^ inches; whatever is left from 10 to 9 cut 
out a V between ir and i ; from 13 to W is the same as 14 to 2; shape the backpart and finish 
as indicated. 



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DIAGRAM 108. 



2o8 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM J 09 

KNICKERBOCKERS 

The measurements are as follows : 

Outside seam 42 inches Seat 40 inches 

Inseam 32 inches Small of knee 13 inches 

Waist 34 inches Calf 14 inches 

Draw line A-C and square out to S. 

From A to D is the difference between the inside seam and the outside seam, which is 10 
inches; from D to 13 is i inch less than ^ of the inseam, which is 15 inches; from 13 to B is 
2yz inches, and from B to C is 4 inches; from D to E is 1-6 seat; square out from E, D, 13, B 
and C. 

From D to G is 34 seat ; G to H is J^ inch ; square up from H to get point S ; draw a line 
from G to S to get point 3 ; J is half way between G and H ; from J to K. is }i seat ; K to L is 
Yz inch; M is half way between D and K; from C to N is the same distance as from D to M ; 
from II to U is ^ of the small of the knee ; 11 to 13 is the same ; from N to 7 is }i of the calf ; 
N to 9 is the same; from 9 to 14 is i inch; 13 to 12 is the same; draw a line from 12 to 14. 

From D to Z is 1% inches; from R to S is '4 waist; R to T is the same; shape the fore- 
part as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines A — S, Z — L, V — U and 14^7; from 7 to 8 is y? inch; U to W is the same; 
from L to X is 1-12 seat; X to Y is i/g inch; from Z to 15 is 1^/2 inches; from R to 16 is Yz 
waist ; R to 5 is 1-6 seat ; from 15 to 4 is the same length as Z to T ; draw a line from 16 through 
5 ; from 4 to 6 is ^ waist plus i inch ; draw a line from 6 to 3. 

Apply the small of the knee measure plus i inch for seams from 12 to U and W to V, which 
is 14 inches. 

Apply the calf measure plus i inch for seams from 7 to 14 and from 8 to 10, which is 15 
inches. 

Shape the backpart as indicated. 



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® 
® 

i ^1^ g If \ 



DIAGRAM 109. 



2jO AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 110 
RIDING BREECHES 

The measurements are as follows : 

Outside length 43 inches Seat 40 inches 

Inseam 33 inches Small of Knee 13 inches 

Waist 34 inches Calf 14 inches 

Ankle 11 inches 

Draw line A — B and square out to N. 

From A to C is the difference between the outside and inside seams, which is 10 inches ; from 
C to E is I inch less than 5-4 inseam, which is I5>^ inches: from E to 25 is Ys seat; from 25 to 
G is 4 inches; from G to B is the extension, 5 inches; from C to D is 1-6 seat; square out from 
D, C, E, 25, G and B. 

From C to H is 34 seat ; H to J is % inch ; square up from J to get N ; draw a line from H 
to N to get point 23; from J to L is J^ seat; point 12 is half way between C and L; from B to 
II is the same distance as C to 12; draw a Hne from 11 through 12 to locate point O: from N to 
M is J4 waist ; N to P is 1/2 inch ; draw a line from M to P. 

From C to Y is 1% inches; point V is half way between B and 11 ; square up from V; this 
locates points U — Q ; point W is half way between O and Y ; from W to X is i ;4 inches ; from V 
to T is 1-3 of the ankle plus >^ inch; from U to S is 1-3 of the calf plus ^i inch; Q to R is 
1-3 of the small of knee plus ^ inch. 

From L to K is 5^ inch ; shape the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines P— M, L— Y, R— Q, S— G and T— B. 

From T to 10 is J.'j inch ; S to 9 is 'a inch ; R to 8 is 3 j inch ; L to 6 is 1-12 seat ; 6 to 7 is Jg 
inch. 

Point I is half way between O and P ; draw a line from L through I to get 4 ; from O to 4 is 
4 inches, from 4 to 2 is 3^ waist plus i inch;fror.-i Y to Z is ly^ inches: from Z to 3 is the same 
length as Y to M. 

Apply the ankle measure plus 23/j inches from T to Y and 10 to 16, which is 133^ inches. 

Apply the calf measure plus i inch for searns from S to U and 9 to 17, which is 15 inches. 

Apply the small of knee measure plus i inch for seams from R to Q and 8 to F, which is 
14 inches. 

From I back to 26 is 3^ inch. 

Shape the backpart as indicated. 

From T to 13 is 1-6 seat; square up from 13; this locaies 21-24; from 13 to 14 is yi inch; 
13 to 15 is the same; cut a V out of the backpart as from 21 to 14 and 15. 

At point 24 cut out a one inch fish from the backpart 3-2 inch each way from 24 and fini>^b. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



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14 IS 



DIAGRAM no. 



212 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 1 1 1 

GOLFING BREECHES 

The measurements are as follows: 

Outside length to knee 23>4 inches Seat 40 inches 

Full length 42 inches Knee 22 inches 

Inseam 32 inches Small of the knee 13 inches 

Waist 34 inches 

Draw line A — ^C and square out to S. 

From A to D is the difference between ihe outside and inside lengths, which is 10 inches; 
to B is the knee length, 23>4 inches ; from B to C is 6 inches ; D to E is 1-6 seat; square out from 

E, D, B and C. 

From D to G is i^ seat ; G to H is ^ inch ; square up from H co get S ; draw a line from 
G to S to get 3 : point J is half way between G and H ; from J to K is Ys seat ; K to L is >^ inch ; 
point M is half way between D and K ; from C to N is the same distance as D to M ; draw a 
line from N through M ; this locates points Q— R. 

From N to O is >4 inch ; from N to P is the same ; cut out a V between P and O reaching 
up to Q ; from P to 7 is 14 of the small of knee plus ^4 inch ; O to 9 is the same ; from Q to 
V is K knee ; Q to U is the same ; from R to S is '4 waist ; R to T is the same ; from D to Z is i>4 
inches; shape the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines S— T, 3— E, L— Z, U— V and 7—9. 

From R to 4 is >4 waist; from R to 5 is 1-6 seat ; draw a line from 4 through 5 ; from 4 to 
6 is i^ waist plus i inch ; draw a line from 6 to 3 ; from 3 to F and 3 to 2 is the seat measure 
plus 3, 14 inches ; from L to X is 1-12 scat ; X to Y is ^ inch ; U to W is >4 inch ; V to B is the 
same ; 7 to 8 is 3/^ inch ; 9 to 10 is the same ; take out a V from the back the same as between P 
and O on the forepart. Shape the backpart as indicated and finish. 

The cuff on the bottom is about 3 inches wide. 



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DIAGRAM III. 



2 14 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 112 
COACHMAN'S BREECHES 

The measurements are as follows : 

Outside length 43 inches Knee 15 inches 

Inseam 33 inches Small of knee 13 inches 

Waist 33 inches Calf 14 inches 

Seat 39 inches 

Draw line A — B and square out to P. 

From A to C is the difiference between the outside and inside seams, 10 inches ; from C to 
E is I inch less than y'^ of the inseam, i^Y^ inches; E to I is 2>^ inches; from I to B is 4 inches; 
C to D is 1-6 seat; square out from C, D, E, I and B. 

From C to H is >4 seat ; from H to J is J4 inch ; square up from J to get P ; draw a line 
from H to P to get 23; from J to L is J/^ seat; L back to K is y^ inch; point 12 is half way 
between C and L; from B to 11 is the same distance as C to 12; draw a line from 11 through 
12 to locate points 26, 25 and O. 

From 1 1 to T is J4 of the calf ; from 26 to S is >4 of the small of knee ; 25 to R is y^ of 
the knee measure; from 11 to 13 is i inch less than 11 to T ; from 26 to 21 is i inch less than 
26 to S ; from 25 to 24 is i inch less than 25 to R. 

From O to P is J4 waist ; O to M is the same ; shape the forepart as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines 12— O. P— M, 23— D, C— L, R— 24, S— 21 and T— 13. 

From T to 13 and T to 16 is the calf measure plus i inch for seams; from S to 21 and S to 
G is the small of knee measure plus i inch ; from R to 24 and R to F is the knee measure plus 

1 inch; from D to 22 is 2 inches; O to 2 is U waist; from O to 4 is 1-6 seat; draw a line from 

2 through 4; from 2 to 5 is J4 waist plus i inch ; draw a line from 5 to 23 ; from L to 6 is 1-12 
seat; 6 to 7 is y inch; shape the backpart and finish as indicated. 



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DIAGRAM 112. 



2i6 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAMS 113 and 114 

TROUSERS FOR BOW-LEGGED MEN 

Trousers for bow-legged men are cut as follows : 

Ascertain the amount the legs are bowed by having your customer stand with his heels close 
together; find as nearly as you can the amount of space there is between the knees. 

Let us say the space is 3 inches, which means that each leg is bowed i>l inches. Now, 
after having cut the forepart in the regular way, proceed as follows: (See Diagram 113.) 

Line A — C is the knee line. 

Cut the forepart open as from A to C ; lengthen the outside seam by opening the pattern 
y^ inch, which is half the amount of the bow. 

Reshape the outside and inseam by filling in slightly at C and reducing the same amount 
at A— B. 

After the forepart is finished as explained, cut the backpart according to the forepart. 
(See Diagram 114.) 



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217 





2,8 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 114a 

Diagram 114a shows a pair of trousers for knock-kneed men. 

Ascertain the amount the legs are bowed out by having the man stand with his knees close 
together ; find the amount of space there is between the heels. Let us say the space is 3 inches, 
which means that each leg is bowed out i>^ inches. Cut the forepart in the regular way, and 
split it at the knee, on the inseam. Lengthen the inseam by opening the pattern between A and 
B }i inch, which is ^ the distance the leg is bowed out. Straighten the inseam and the out- 
side seam by reducing slightly at the inseam and adding the same on the outside seam. 

Now cut the backpart according to the forepart. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



219 




DIAGRAM 1 14 A 



220 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM lis 

BROAD FALLS 

The facing for broad falls are cut as follows : 

After the side pockets are marked and notched on the forepart, mark C to D i inch. 

F to H is 2>4 inches, H to J is J4 inch, F to G is the same. Shape the facing as indicated. 

DIAGRAM 116 

NARROW FALLS 

The narrow falls are cut as follows : 

Line D — ^F is the center of forepart. 

From D to F is the same as A to C. 

Square back from F. From F to E is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from D to E. 

D to G is 2J^ inches. H to K is the same. Draw a line from G through K. 

From K to L is ^ inch. H to J is the same. Draw a line from J to L. 

Cut in the forepart from D to E and finish as represented. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



221 





DIAGRAM 115. 



DIAGRAM 116. 



222 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 117 

CHILDREN'S COATS. SINGLE-BREASTED SACK COAT FOR A CHILD 4 YEARS OLD 

The breast is 23 inches, waist 23 inches, and hip 26 inches. 

For measurements, see table of proportions for boys and youths. 

Draw Hne A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is ^ breast; sink the armscye from B to 12, % inch; from A to C is the waist 
length ; C to D is 5 inches ; A to E is the full length of the coat ; F is half way between A and 
B; from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, C, D and E. 

From B to H is 3/2 breast; H to J is i^ inches ; J to K is 5^ inch ; from B to M is 2-3 breast 
plus 54 inch; square up and down from M. 

O is half way between B and M ; from O to P is i inch; square up from P to get point R; 
from R to S is >4 inch; from A to T is 1-6 breast; T to U is % inch; from P back to Q is J4 
inch ; square down from Q and shape the back ; from N to W is ^"2 waist ; square down from 
W ; X is half way between N and W ; point Y is half way between M and J ; draw a line from 
X through Y to get 25 ; from A to U and M to 25 is 1-3 breast plus ^ inch ; draw a line from 
25 to G ; from 25 to 4 is J4 inch less than U to S ; 4 to 5 is ^4 inch ; shape the shoulder and 
armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 breast plus yi inch; draw a line 
from 6 to K; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 breast; 25 to 23 is % breast; draw a line from 23 to 24 and 
shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 54 inch; W to 9 is the same; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From Z to I is >2 inch less than 1-6 breast. 

From 10 to 11 is 3 J^ inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus 3/2 inch from 21 to D and 11 to 14, which is 13% inches. 

From 14 to 26 is 2 inches; square up from 26 to get 19; draw a line from 19 through 14 
to get 16; from 19 to 16 is the same length as 20 to 15; shape the side and bottom of forepart 
and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



22 • 




DIAGRAM 117. 



224 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 118 
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK. COAT FOR A BOY 14 YEARS OLD 

The breast measure is 30I/2 inches, waist 28 inches and hip 32^ inches. 

For other measurements see table of proportions for boys and youths. 

Diaw Hne A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is 14 breast measure ; sink the armscye from B to 12, ^ inch ; from A to C is 
the waist length ; C to D is 5 inches ; A to E is the full length ; F is half way between A and B , 
from F to G is 1-12 breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is ^ inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down; from 28 to H is ^ 
breast; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is j^ inch; from 28 to M is 2-3 breast plus ^ inch; square 
up and down from M. 

O is half way between 28 and M; from O to P is i inch; square up and down from P; 
this locates point R ; from R to S is J4 "ich ; from A to T is 1-6 breast ; T to U is >^ inch ; from 
P to V is 1-12 breast; shape the back as indicated. 

From N to W is >4 waist; X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way between 
M and J ; draw a line from X through Y to get line 25 ; from A to U and M to 25 is 1-3 breast 
plus ^ inch ; draw a line from 25 to G ; from 25 to 4 is J4 inch less than U to S ; 4 10 5 is 14 
inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y ; from 25 to 6 is J/^ breast plus 34 inch ; draw a 
rounding line from 6 to K; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 breast plus y^ inch; 25 to 23 is >^ breast; draw 
a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 2^4 inches ; W to 9 is the same ; shape the front edge through 8. 9 and Z ; 
from Z to I is >1 inch less than 1-6 breast; from 10 to 11 is 5 inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus ^4 inch from 21 to 13 and 11 to 14. which is 16.V8 inches. 

From 14 to 26 is 2 inches; square up from 26 to get 19; draw a line from 19 through 
14 to get 16; from 19 to 16 is the same length as 20 to 15; shape the side and bottom of fore- 
part and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



225 




DIAGRAM 118. 



226 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 119 

SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT FOR A BOY 8 YEARS OLD 

The breast measure is 26 inches, waist measure is 25 inches and hip measure 28^'^ inches. 

Increase the size of the overcoat 2 inches over the breast, waist and hip. 

For other measures, see table of proportions for boys and youths. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From Ai to B is J4 breast, 7 inches ; sink the amiscye from B to 12, % inch ; from A to C is 
the waist length, plus y^ inch ; C to D is 5 inches ; from A to E is the full length of the coat ; F 
is half way between A and B; from F to G is 1-12 of 28 breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, 
C, D and E. 

From C to 17 is I4 inch; draw a line from F to 17 and square down; from 28 to H is ^ 
breast, 14 inches; H to J is i^ inches; J to K is 5^ inch; from 28 to M is 2-3 of 26 breast plus 
I inch; square up and down from M ; O is half way between 28 and M ; from O to P is i'4 
inches; square up from P to locate point R; from R to S is J4 inch; P to V is 1-12 breast; from 
P to O is J4 inch; square down from Q; from A to T is 1-6 of 28 breast; T to U is Y^ inch; 
shape the backpart as indicated. 

From N to W is 54 of 27 waist; square down from W to get point Z; from Z to I is 5^ 
inch less than 1-6 of 28 breast; point X is half way between N and W; point Y is half way 
between M and J ; draw a line from X through Y to get line 25 ; from A to U and M to 25 is 
1-3 of 28 breast plus % inch ; draw a line from 25 to G ; from 25 to 4 is 54 inch less than U to 
S ; 4 to 5 is 34 inch ; shape the shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 6 is 1-6 of 28 breast plus ^4 inch; draw 
a rounding line from 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 28 breast ; 25 to 23 is Y^ breast ; draw a line 
from 23 through 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 1Y2 inches ; W to 9 is the same ; shape the front edge through 8, 9 and Z. 

From 10 back to 11 is 3% inches. 

Apply the hip measure plus Y2 inch from 18 to 13 and 11 to 14, which is 15% inches. 

From 14 to iS is 2 inches; square up from 18 to get 20; draw a line from 20 through 
14 to get 16; from 20 to 16 is the same length as 20 to 15 ; shape the side and bottom of forepart 
and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



227 




DIAGRAM 119. 



228 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 120 

DOUBLE-BREASTED. FULL-BACK] OVERCOAT FOR A BOY 12 YEARS, OLD 

The breast measure is 29 inches, waist measure 27 inches. 

Add 2 inches to the breast and waist measures. For other measurements see table of pro- 
portions for boys and youths. 

Draw line A — E and square out to T. 

From A to B is "4 of 31 breast; sink the armscye from B to 12 J4 inch; A to C is >4 inch 
more than the waist length ; to E is full length ; F is half way between A and B ; from F to G is 
1-12 of 31 breast; square out from G, F, B, 12, C and E. 

From B to H is >4 breast, 153.-2 inches; H to J is 1% inches; J to K is ^ inch; from B to M 
is 2-3 of 29 breast plus i inch ; square up and down from M. 

O is half way between B and M ; from O to P is i}i inches; square up from P; this locates 
point R ; from R to S is J4 '"ch; from A to T is 1-6 of 31 breast; T to U is ^ inch ; draw a line 
from T to S ; from N to W is ^ of 29 waist ; square down from W to get point 27 ; point X is 
half way between N and W ; point Y is half way between M and J ; draw a line from X through 
Y to get line 25; from A to U and M to 25 is 1-3 of 31 breast plus }i inch; draw a line from 
25 to G; from 25 to 4 is y^ inch less than U to S. 

From 4 to 5 is 54 '"ch ; shape the back, shoulder and armscye. 

Point L is where the armscye crosses the breast line; square down from L; this locates point 
15; from L to 18 is 12 inches; 18 to 14 is 3^/2 inches; draw a line from L through 14 to get 16; 
from L to 16 is the same length as L to 15; square forward from 25 by line X — Y; from 25 to 
6 is 1-6 of 31 breast plus 54 inch; draw a rounding line from. 6 to K ; from 6 to 24 is 1-6 of 31 
breast plus 54 inch ; 25 to 23 is '/^ breast ; draw a line from 23 to 24 and shape the gorge. 

From K to 8 is 3 inches ; W to 9 is the same ; 27 to Z is 2 inches ; shape the front edge 
through 8, 9 and Z. 

From Z to I is }A inch less than 1-6 breast; shape the bottom and finish. 
THE COLLAR 

From 25 to D is J4 i"ch ; draw a line for the break of lapel from D up and down ; from D 
to 33 is 14 inch more than A to U; 33 to 32 is i inch; 33 to 26 is i>2 inches; shape the collar 
as indicated. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



229 




DIAGRAM 120. 



2?o AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



DIAGRAM 121 
SLEEVE 

The sleeve for children's coats is made as follows : 

Measure around the armhole closely and cut the sleeve by the armscye. 

Draw line A — F and square back to I. 

From A to I is J/2 of the armscye ; square down from I ; from A to B is 1-12 of the armscye ; 
B to D is 14 of the armscye ; D to E is the same ; square out from B and D ; from D to C is i 
inch ; from C to H is Yz of the armscye ; H to J is J4 inch ; draw a line from C to H ; point G is 
half way between C and H; draw a line from E to J; from A to K is i/^ of the armscye; K to 
L is the same ; from D to F is the sleeve length ; from D to O is i inch ; D to R is the same ; F 
to Q is I inch; F to R is the same; place the square at G — F and square back to N; from F 
to N is the width of the sleeve desired plus I inch for seams ; point T is half way between C 
and F; square back from T to locate point M. From S to T is J^ inch; U to V is the same. 
Shape the upper and under sleeve as indicated. 

DIAGRAM 122 
BOYS" TROUSERS 

Boys' trousers are cut as follows : 

For measurements, see table of proportions for boys and youths. 

Draw line A — D and square out to I. 

From A to C is the rise; C to D is the inseam; C to 2 is 1-6 seat; square out from 2, C 
and D. 

From C to E is 3^ seat ; E to V is 34 seat ; G is half way between C and V ; from D to F 
is the same distance as C to G; draw a line from F through G to get 7; from F to N is 34 bot- 
tom; F to O is the same ; square up from E to get I ; from I to K is 3X waist ; shape the forepart 
as indicated. 

THE BACKPART 

Extend lines G — 7, I — K, 6 — 2, C — V and N — O. 

From N to O is 3^ inch ; O to R is the same ; V to U is i3-<> inches ; U to 5 is 3:4 inch ; 2 to 3 
is ly^ inches; from 7 to X is 1-6 seat; draw a line from X to 6; sweep from K to Y, pivoting at 
N; from X to Y is 34 waist plus i inch; shape the backpart as indicated and finish. 



AMERICAN GARMENT C U T T E R. 



231 




232 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

FROM 

NORMALS TO STOUTS 







COAT 




VEST 


TROUSERS 


BREAST 


WAIST 


HIP 


SLEEVE 


COAT 
LENGTHS 


VEST 
LENGTHS 


RISE 


WAIST 


SEAT 


34 


30 


36 


\TA 


30 


24 3^ 


9V 


29 


35 


35 


31 


37 


IVA 


30 K 


25 >^ 


9)i 


30 


36 


36 


32 


38 


18 


30 >i 


25'-^ 


9H 


31 


37 


87 


83X 


39 


18V 


30 H 


25?^ 


10 


32V 


38 


38 


84K 


40 


18^ 


31 


26« 


lOV 


33 y^ 


39 


39 


85?<- 


41 


18M 


81 « 


m% 


lo;^ 


34 V 


40 


40 


37 


42 


19 


31'A 


2TA 


lOV 


36 


41 


41 


38>4' 


43 


19X 


31 U 


2TA 


11 


37 V 


42 


42 


39 J^ 


44 


193^ 


32 


27H 


iiV 


38X 


43 


43 


40 M 


45 


19!^ 


32'4 


28V 


ll'A 


39 V 


44 


44 


42 


46 


19'A 


31% 


28;^ 


11 V 


41 


45 


45 


43X 


47 


19M 


32 M 


28^ 


12 


42 V 


46 


46 


44 J^ 


48 


19^ 


33 


283^ 


12V 


43K 


47 


47 


4514" 


49 


li»i 


ssx 


28% 


12 J^ 


44 V 


48 


48 


47 


50 


19>i 


33>^ 


29 


12V 


46 


49 


49 


48X 


61 


19'A 


33K 


29^ 


13 


47V 


50 


50 


49>i 


53 


19'A 


34 


29 V 


13V 


48)^ 


51 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

FROM 

STOUT TO CORPULENTS 



COATS 


TROUSERS 


BREAST 


WAIST 


HIP 


WAIST 


HIP 


SEAT 


RISE 


38 


37 


41 


36 


40 


40 


10 


39 


38(4" 


42 


37 V 


41V 


41 


lOV 


40 


39>^ 


43 


38 V 


42V 


42 


lO'A 


41 


40^4: 


44 


39 V 


43 K 


43 


lOV 


42 


43 


45 


41 


45 


44 


11 


43 


43 !< 


46 


43V 


46 W 


45 


11 V 


44 


4i'A 


47 


43 J^ 


47'^ 


46 


IVA 


45 


45 « 


48 


44V 


48 V 


47 


llV 


46 


47 


49 


46 


50 


48 


12 


47 


48 V 


50 


47 V 


51V 


49 


12 "4: 


48 


i9'A 


51 


48V 


52'A 


50 


12;*- 


49 


60 J4 


52 


49 U 


53 V 


51 


12 V 


50 


52 


53 


51 


55 


52 


13 


61 


53V 


54 


52 V 


56 


53 


13"^ 


52 


64 V 


55 


53>^ 


57 


54 


13V 


63 


55 « 


56 


64 3< 


58 


55 


13Ji 


54 


57 


57 


56 


59 


56 


ISA 



For vest lengths add V of breast and V ol height. 

The short measures for the table of proportions for men are as follows: 
Scye depth, ys breast plus :ij4 inches; Waist length, 54 of height; For fashionable waist 
length, add 2 inches; Strap, ^4 breast plus 3% inches; Blade, }i breast plus 3>^ inches; 
For overshoulder use J^ of breast plus 6 inches. 

Where changes are made in either the scye depth, strap or blade, for either stooping or 
over erect forms, the overshoulder is obtained a s follows : 
For example : 

Scye depth 9^ inches 

Strap I2j4 inches 

Blade 12I/2 inches 



Total 34J/2 inches 

Take one-half of the amount, which is I7'4 inches and add % inch, which is 17^^ inches. 
Make no extra additions, as all allowance? have been made. 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUT T E R. 



-OJ 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 



FOR 



BOYS AND YOUTHS 



COATS 



AGE 


BREAST 


WAIST 


HIP 


WAIST 
LENGTH 


FULL 
LENGTH 


SLEEVE 


WRIST 


4 


23 


23 


26 


UK 


18 


17% 


8% 


6 


i3U 


33K 


26% 


11% 


18^ 


18% 


8V 


6 


U% 


24 


27X 


13 


19V 


19'A 


9 


7 


25V 


24K 


27^8 


12H 


19% 


20% 


9V 


8 


26 


25 


38K 


12% 


20% 


21 yz 


9% 


9 


26 Ji 


25>^ 


29-^ 


13 


iVA 


22% 


9V 


10 


27K 


26 


29K 


13% 


21V 


23% 


10 


11 


28^: 


26^ 


30H 


13% 


22Ji 


24% 


lov 


13 


29 


37 


31 


14 


23 


25% 


10% 


13 


29K 


27K 


31 >^ 


14% 


23V 


26V 


lOV 


14 


30K 


28 


33V 


14% 


24% 


27 


11 


15 


31X 


28>^ 


33 


15 


25V 


27V 


iiV 


16 


32 


29 


33 V 


16% 


26 


28% 


11% 


17 


33 


29K 


34K 


15% 


26 V 


39V 


ilV 


18 


34 


30 


35 


16 


27% 


30 


12 


19 


35 


31 


36 


16% 


28V 


31 


12V 


20 


36 


32 


37 


16% 


29 


33 


13% 



TROUSERS 



AGE 


BOYS- 
VESTS 


RISE 


LENGTH 


WAIST 


SEAT 


KNEE 


4 




5% 


5V 


23 


25% 


11 


5 




5V 


6% 


23% 


26V 


IIV 


6 




6 


7 


24 


27 


11% 


7 




6V 


VA 


24% 


27 V 


llV 


8 




6% 


8V 


25 


28% 


12 


9 




6V 


9% 


25% 


29>i 


13V 


10 


21V 


7 


10% 


36 . 


29V 


12% 


11 


22% 


7V 


11% 


26% 


30% 


12V 


12 


22% 


7% 


12V 


27 


31 


13 


13 


22% 


7V 


13% 


27% 


31% 


18V 


14 


23V 


8 


U 


28 


32V 


13% 


15 


23% 


8V 


14V 


28% 


83 


13V 


16 


24 


Byi 


15% 


29 


38V 


14 


17 


24% 


8K 


80% 


29% 


34% 


14% (Bottom) 


18 


24V 


9 


31 


30 


35V 


15 


19 


25% 


9V 


81% 


31 


36 


15% 


20 


25% 


0% 


32 


33 


37 


16 



The short measures for the table of proportions for ciiildrcn's clothing are as follows: 
Scye depth, 34 breast; strap, Yi breast plus ;V4 inch; blade, y^ breast plus yi inch, 
Make no extra additions, as all allowances have been made. 



234 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



A FEW REMARKS ABOUT MAKING COATS 

The Canvas. — The canvas and hair cloth should always be cut on the bias. 

SACK COATS 

Sack Coats. — In sewing up the side seams hold the back easy over the blade straight to 
about 3 inches below the waist, and a trifle short over the hip. 

The Shoulders. — The front shoulder may be slightly stretched from the middle of it, to the 
shoulder point and the back held easy over the same parts, but never stretch it for a stout 
person. 

The Edges. — Alway dip the stay tape in water and press before using it. When basting stay 
tape on the front edge, hold it short over the breast, and work the front edge in, so that the 
roundness of the breast is pressed in to the middle of the front and the edge becomes straight. 
For a stout person, hold the stay tape short over the most prominent rounding, which is over the 
waist. In all straight front coats, such as overcoats, double breasted sacks, or straight front 
sacks, the front edges must be worked in until they are straight. 

The Sleeves. — In sewing up the front seams always begin at the top, and, basting on the 
upper sleeve, keep both upper and under sleeves even for about 3 inches ; from there down hold 
the upper sleeve a little short to about 3 inches from the bottom, from there down hold them even. 
When sewing up the back seam, begin also on top, and basting on the upper sleeve, keep them 
both even to the elbow, over the roundness of the elbow hold the upper sleeve easy, and from 
there down even. 

Before basting in the sleeves straighten out the armscye, and take a linen thread, draw in 
the back part of the armscye from the shoulder seam to about iJ/S inches below the side seam, 
and press the fullness away so as to leave a pocket over the blade bone. 

When basting in the sleeve, begin with the right one and placing the seam of the sleeve to 
the nick of the back hold it even to about i inch beyond the shoulder seam, from there on full 
the sleeve in until the front nick of the sleeve reaches the nick of the front ; from there hold the 
sleeve even until you reach the part of the armscye that is drawn in with the linen thread and 
full the under sleeve in over it. 

The Collar. — ^Collars are to be put in easy in the hollow of the gorge for normal or slim 
persons. A concave shoulder needs a longer collar than a normal shoulder. A stout person 
needs a shorter collar than a normal person. In either case, don't stretch the collar stand. 

FROCKS 

In basting the side body to the front, always begin and keep them even at the armscye and 
hold the side body a little short at the waist. 

THE SKIRT 

After the side seam and fish are sewed and pressed open, baste a piece of stay tape to the 
bottom, or the waist seam of the side body, so as to prevent it from stretching, after which baste the 
skirt on, beginning at the side, hold the skirt and side body even to the side seam; from there on 
for about 4 inches hold the skirt full, and from there on even to the front. 

In sewing the back to the side body, begin at the armscye and keep both back and side body 



AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 



2^5 



even to about 4 inches from the waist; from there down full the back in about J^ or J^ inch; 
don't stretch the side body until after the back is sewed on to it, and then only just enough to 
make the back seam straight. Shrink in the side body half way. 

THE PLEATS 

The proper way to make the pleats is to put a baste in >4 inch or a seam back from the mark 
stitch, and press the roundness of the skirt in until the pleat is straight, press it open as if it were 
a seam. Pull the baste out and it is ready to be joined to the back. 

The shoulder, collar and sleeves are the same as in the sack coats. 

In double breasted frocks or dress coats all the seams are joined the same as the single 
breasted coats, except that the rever is held short over the breast and the bell shape skirt needs 
but little fullness at the waist. 

VESTS 

All vests cut by this system need no collar stand, as the stand is cut on the vest. 

The Edges. — All the front edges are to be made straight with the stay tape, i. e., they are to 
be worked in until the edge is straight and the fullness pressed in to the middle of the front. 

The Shoulders. — The shoulders ought to be stretched slightly and the back held full over 
them. The collar, if there be one, should be held easy to about 3 inches from the shoulder and from 
there held short to about 2 inches from the front edge. 

Double breasted vests, with or without collar, or dress vests with low openings should have 
stay tape laid around the opening and held short so as to prevent the edge sticking away from 
the shirt front. 

Double breasted vests, and double breasted coats must have more breast worked in them 
than single breasted vests or coats. 

TROUSERS 

Avoid stretching trousers, except the inseam of the back part from the knee to the crotch, 
and that only >4 inch. Any stretching on the forepart is sure to spoil them. Let the notches 
come together evenly ; hold the forepart easy over the knee and the back part hold easy over 
the calf. 

Peg top trousers should have the roundness from over the hip pressed in to the back. Ler 
the forepart be held easy over the back part from the hip to the knee. Waist bands should be 
held a little short over the forepart, easy in hollow of the waist and even from there back. 

The right fly should be held easy in the hollow of the crotch. Let all the shaping be done 
by shrinking. Do not stretch. 



236 AM ERI C AN G ARM EN T C UTT ER. 

INDEX 

Page. 

Introduction 3 

Preface 4 

Preface to Second Edition 5 

How to Measure 6 

How to Measure, continued 8 

How to Measure, continued lo 

How to Measure, continued 12 

How to Measure, continued 14 

First Lesson for Drafting a Sack Coat 16 

First Lesson for Drafting a Sack Coat, Continued 18 

First Lesson for Drafting a Sack Coat, concluded 20 

How to Apply the Overshoulder Measure 22 

Three-button Semi-fitting Sack with Flaring Skirt 24 

Actual Measurements will show Figure 26 

Actual Meausurements will show Figure, continued 28 

Actual Measurements will show Figure, continued 30 

An Exaggerated Sack Coat 32 

Four-button Straight Front Sack with Rounded Corners 34 

Four-button Sack, Loose Back 36 

Straight Front Sack witfi Peaked Lapel 38 

Single-breasted Sack for a Stout Figure 40 

Single-breasted Sack for a Stout Figure, continued 42 

Three-button Single-breasted Sack for a Corpulent Figure 44 

Double-breasted Semi-fitting Sack Coat 46 

An Exaggerated Double-breasted Sack 48 

Double-breasted Sack Coat for a Stout Figure 50 

First Lesson for Drafting a Single-breasted Frock Coat 52 

First Lesson for Drafting a Single-breasted Frock Coat, continued 54 

First lesson for Drafting a Single-breasted Frock Coat, concluded 56 

One-button Cutaway Frock 58 

Three-button Cutaway Exaggerated Frock, otherwise known as English Walking Coat. . . 60 

Three-button Cutaway Frock for a Stout Figure 62 

Three-button Frock for a Cori)ulent Figure 64 

Single-breasted Straight Front Frock 66 

Single-breasted Clergyman's Frock 68 

Policeman's Frock 70 

Single-breasted Straight Front Frock for a Stout Figure 72 

Single-breasted Straight Front Frock for a Corpulent Figure 74 

A Cassock 76 

Double-breasted Frock 78 

Double-breasted Frock with a Close-fitting Skirt 80 

Double-breasted Exaggerated Frock with a Full Flaring Skirt 82 

Double-breasted Frock for a Stout Figure 84 

Double-breasted Frock for a Corpulent Figure 86 

Tuxedo Coat 88 

Tuxedo Coat with a Peaked Lapel 90 

How to Make a Tuxedo Coat out of an ordinar\- Sack Coat 92 

Evening Dress Coat 94 



A M E R I C A N G A RM E K T C U T T ER. 237 

Page 

Evening Dress Coat for a Stout Figure p6 

Evening Dress Coat for a Corpulent Figure p8 

Evening Dress Coat without Separate Rever or Skirt Strap 100 

Evening Dress Coat without Separate Rever or Skirt Strap for a Stout Figure 102 

Semi-fitting Chesterfield Overcoat 104 

Semi-fitting Double-breasted Chesterfield 106 

Close-fitting Chesterfield with slightly Flaring Skirt 108 

Chesterfield Overcoat for a Stout Figure no 

Chesterfield Overcoat for a Corpulent Figure 112 

Single-breasted Full Back Overcoat 114 

Full Box Overcoat 116 

Double-breasted Box Overcoat 118 

Full Box Overcoat for a Stout Figure • 120 

Single-breasted Frock Overcoat 122 

Single-breasted Frock Overcoat for a Stout Figure 124 

Paddock Overcoat 126 

French Overcoat 128 

The "Orby" Overcoat 130 

The "Orby" Overcoat for a Stout Figure 132 

Double-breasted Frock Overcoat 134 

Double-breasted Frock Overcoat for a Stout Figure with a Full Flaring Skirt 136 

Double-breasted Frock Overcoat for a Corpulent Figure with a Slightly Flaring Skirt 138 

Double-breasted Ulster 140 

Shell for Fur Overcoat with Shawl Collar 142 

Shell for Fur Overcoat with Notched Collar and Peaked Lapels 144 

Square shouldered Inverness 146 

Round shouldered Inverness 148 

Sack Coat for a Hunch Back Figure 150 

Sack Coat for a Hunch Back Figure, continued 1^2 

Collars IC4 

Sleeves 156 

Sleeve for a Box Overcoat 158 

Naval Officer's Blouse 160 

Coachman's or Footman's Frock Undercoat 162 

Back of Frock Coat without a Center Seam 164 

Coachman's or Policeman's Overcoat 164 

Coachman's Overcoat 166 

Norfolk Coat 168 

Circular Cape 170 

Shoulder Cape 172 

Shoulder Cape, continued 174 

A Hood 176 

Single-breasted No-Collar Vest 178 

Single-breasted Vest with Notched Collar for a Stout Figure 180 

Single-breasted Vest for a Stout Figure, continued 182 

Single-breasted Vest for a Corpulent Figure 182 

Double-breasted No-Collar Vest 184 

Double-breasted No-Collar Vest for a Stout Figure 186 

Double-breasted Vest with a Collar and Lapel same as on a Coat 188 

Double-breasted Vest with a Rever igo 

Clerical Vests 192 



238 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER. 

Page 

Evening Dress Vest 194 

Double-breasted Dress Vest •• . . 196 

Double-breasted Vest with a V-shaped Front 198 

Trousers 200 

Trousers for a Stout Figure 202 

Fat Man's Trousers 204 

Peg Top Trousers 206 

Knickerbockers 208 

Riding Breeches 210 

Golfing Breeches 212 

Coachman's Breeches 214 

Trousers for Bow Legged Men 216 

Trousers for Knock Kneed Men 218 

Broad Falls 220 

Narrow Falls 220 

Children's Coats ; Single-breasted Sack Coat for a Child 4 Years Old 222 

Double-breasted Coat for a Boy 14 years old 224 

Single-breasted Overcoat for a boy 8 years old 226 

Double-breasted Full Back Overcoat for a boy 12 years old 228 

Sleeve for Children's Coats 230 

Boys' Trousers 230 

1 able of Proportions 232 

Table of Proportions 233 

Remarks on Garment Making 234 



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